Yes. The intercooler fit very poorly, I was surprised. Since reading about how everything APS was so perfect.

 

Maybe the problem is they assume all cars are identical and the brackets need more wiggle room. Their part may be good, but the car ain't.

 

The overall quality of the parts is excellent, but a few things are just a bit "off". And some of the pipes are ridiculously difficult to attach....wait till you get to the compressor discharge pipes...especially if the motor is still in the car. That's a lot of fun...have some beer handy.

 

Yes I did, not much. Loosening all the bolts and wiggling it a bit helped a lot. I reamed out the holes about 1/8" on each side.

 

Well this is good info!!! I'll be watching for the piping issue, and I'll have that one licked before it begins!

Wish I would of had a thread (no pun intended) to read before. It could have saved me a lot of time...

But hey, I'll be a pro by the time I'm done... Fitting the kit a second time would be SO much easier! (Armed with the know how.)

Thanks, all who have responded thus far...

Yeah I could lock this thing down in a vice, and it wouldn't help... I put a few wrenches to it, hoping to get it "good enough" but that doesn't help much.

As for the hole in the top of the fuel system. I would include a paper template!!!! Just print something out so you can line it up perfect everytime! All that measuring, is great and all, but I think i was off by 1 mm, and so I had to bend my tube slightly... It works... but a template would rock!


spdkils

 

If you'd have searched, I have a few posts out on here about my self install

 

I agree, that would have been nice! Measuring for that hole was tedious. I quadruple checked my dimensions.

 

I've done a lot of searching now that I've begun.

There is good info in here... but a lot of it is buried and hard to find...

I'd love to see a single sticky with consolidated modifications to the APS kit, and the Greddy kit required.

1) Fuel Pump (What to cut, with examples.)
2) Fuel Pressure Regualtor Housing. (Tapping)
3) Intercooler (What needs drilled?)
4) Best way to reach the turbo nuts with the engine in place.
5) Example (pic) of how much ultra copper to place on the turbos. (It says 1/8th inch bead... I've seen pictures with it GOOPING out, and others where you can't see the sealer)
6) Water lines... I actualy found it easier to hook up the RHS before the LHS.
7) A template for the hole in the top of your fuel housing.
8) A "new" tool list. (Dremmel, plug tap, ultra grey/copper, razorblade, etc)

As I've said, I've done a lot of searching now that I've started... But you don't really know what you're looking for before you begin. I didn't even think to search for fuel pictures etc. The manual says some cutting, but I wasn't expecting so much... etc.

This reminds me of computer work... Once you have a problem that bites you in the **** so hard... You NEVER forget it.

 

Well I fixed the fuel problem. (I hope.) Use a bigger wrench!!!

I tried to get it tapped out a bit so it wasn't so tight, no luck there. Tried to find differnt barbs... No luck... Stuck it in a vice, and twisted the hell out of it... PERFECT!


Fixed my RHS oil leak, again... more wrench, less thinking...

Fixed the LHS air pipe going to the intercooler... The inside bolt wont fit, the angle is too steeeeep. Grabed a cutter, and took the tip of the bolt off, and ate some of the nut portion as well... And drilled a bit on the pipe... Done with that...

Trimmed and installed both oil return lines... Bent a braket that was rubbing the RHS one.

Picked up my Quaife. Recieved my forged internals, as well as Greddy Ultimate etc. Next its RHS air intake... I can see this is going to be a tight fit too!

spdkils

 

yup...APS needs to include one shorter bolt for the LHS compressor discharge tube. I mentioned that to Peter for future kits.

Glad all you parts are there.


I know you didnt buy the Quaife from me, but I discovered a couple days ago that they dont fit. You might want to contact Quaife or your dealer for details on this. They are making some spacer plates to raise the height of the ring gear. I just wanted to let you know, so you didnt tear apart your diff, only to find out the Quaife wont fit.

I sold 10 of the Quaife diffs, and will be advising my customers on their various options today...in case any of them are reading this thread.

 

The trick for my intercooler was to only start the large bolts to the frame first.
Then tilt the bracket towards the IC.
Mount the small bolts to the IC.
Then tighten down the large bolts to the frame.

A template would be awesome.I measured disreguarding the washer underneeth. When it came time to put the washer on, I had to do some extra dremmeling to the under side to make it fit.

I re-wired my horns so they're both mounted in the same position to the top of the IC.One points to the right, & one points to the left. It looks cleaner, & I bet it's loud as hell.

It's great to have a "parts" guy that is so promt with his business and who is interested in figuring out the "kinks" in the products he sells.
Thanks Shirif

 

Oh now that just sucks!!! I'll check with the local shop here that provided it.

I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I already have enough irons in the fire... My current goal is to get my car back on the road.

Then I'll worry about the Quaife.

 

The ones on the back side of both turbos are obviously easy to get to. On the RHS turbo, the nut up front closest to the engine, use a long socket extension; there is enough space to go straight up from the bottom. The RHS turbo front bolt farthest from the motor is the hard one, just alot of micro-wrenching. I stood behind it and reached my arm around to the front of the turbo; lots of nice cuts and scrapes!

LHS turbo, back ones are easy, and I believe the front one farthest from the motor, you can use a long socket ext from underneith. For the bolt closest to the motor on the front side, it's easiest way to reach it is from up top.

You want it to goop out a just a little, but not dripping everywhere lol. And make sure you get it on both sides of the bolt holes.

Don't tap it!


It's tight but not near as bad as the left side!

 

I ment left side... I think most of my problems have been left side.

Now you've got me worried about the seal on the turbos...

 

I had to take off the AC compressor to squeeze in the LHS air intake.

 

Gotta love this "bolt-on" turbo kit from APS.

It definately takes a village to install a turbo kit.

 

Despite the few adjustments required, I would still call it bolt-on. Just about everything is included and it generally fits really well. I was really impressed with the engineering that went into the kit.

 

Thx for the tip about the compressor. I got home today, and my brother was already working on my car. He had worn a hole in his hand trying to get that pipe on.

I said, "Take off the compressor". Boom 5 minutes it was on, and the compressor remounted.

LHS done... On to the RHS. Bending the power steering line is a PITA! But we used a really really big wrench 1 & 5/16ths. Stuck it in a frame hole, and just bent it over.

Does anyone know why the RHS uses a diffrent bolt for the one hole closest the block? It was easier with a normal bolt then using that steel lock washer, hex bolt, and washer!

Anyway... I'm 1/2 way thru assembly!!!! WOOOOO

Any pointers on the LHS air filter? The bracket that mounts it doesnt make much sense to me. It seems to be bent the wrong way or something. It's like 1' long with that right angle at the top, and the ) at bottom to hold the air filter. I tried to fit it a few times... but it was just not intuitive.

 

I was being slightly facetious. It is bolt-on, but it just seems like many components need some minor bending, cutting, drilling, or fabbing. Part of this is due to the fact that the APS kit is very complete.

 

There was a batch of those brackets that were bent the wrong way. Mine and a few others were like that also. I heated mine up and tried to bend it back the other, way, but it snapped. If you have a welder, I'd suggest cutting it off and welding it on the right way.