I thought this deserved its own thread announcement.

As discussed, the Emanage Ulimate has been tested, so it will not burn coils under normal driving conditions.

However, it was brought to my attention that the coils can still burn if the key is left in the on position, when the car is not running. This was the same thing with the blue eManage with diodes.

So....although no diodes are needed...PLEASE do not leave the key in the on position for more than a minute or two, when the engine isnt running. If you need to troubleshoot something with the key-on-engine-off position, then unplug the timing harness component of the EU.

THANKS!!!

 

what about the ACC position? i know i dont have an emanage but im just wondering. is it the same as a WB, where you shouldnt keep it on the on position due to fouling the sensor?

 

ACC is fine, such as to listen the radio, or warm up the wideband sensors. The on position is what energizes the coils, and that is the dangerous position when the engine isnt running.

 

I sent the following email to Greddy USA...no reply as yet....

July 27, 2005 10:59 AM
info@greddy.com <info@greddy.com>

Hi,

I am one of the many 350z owners who, despite the warnings from Greddy, have been running the EManage with the timing harness. I have had 1-2 coils burn out on me, and then soldered some 1n5400 diodes in line with the ignition wiring on the timing harness, which I am told through several 350z forums is a home-grown makeshift fix for dropping the voltage slightly to the coils. SO far so good (knock on wood).

My question: Is the EManage Ultimate certified by Greddy to work with the 350Z with the ignition harness i.e. no fried coils?? I basically have to be able to pull timing from my SC set-up. I'd be interested in the EU if it provides safer operation with my ignition coils.

Also, Can I simply buy the EU box and swap out the Emanage or do I need new harnesses, and need to perform a new install i.e. solder new wire connections??? If not can you tell me what I need to buy and do???

Hope you can provide me the answers I need.

Thanks.

 

You might not get a reply.

From my discussion with Greddy, it appears the EU is safe on coils, as long as the car is running. I wouldnt let that stop you from installing one. I have driven mine for about a month now, and no issues...and its been REALLY hot here in charlotte...an entire week of 100 degree weather with 80% humidity.

If you have the eManage blue, then you just need the EU main unit, and the supplemental harness. Now, you will have to rewire the timing harness, so that the signals match up by channel, and also verify that your injector wires are also matched by channel. This wasnt important with the oil Blue Emanage, but critical with the new EU. Ch1 is Injector one...etc..

 

Key on, engine not running, is defined as a stall condition. Ignition systems designs should incorporate a "stall detector" feature to shut off the coils, in the event of a stall condition. The mechanism can be either software or hardware based, so it would seem that Greddy could add some code and update their firmware.

Here's an excerpt from the ST MicroElectronics L497 ignition controller data sheet, where the solution is implemented in hardware:

Figure 3 : Permanent Conduction Protection.

PERMANENT CONDUCTION PROTECTION (fig. 3) The permanent conduction protection circuit monitors the input period, charging CP with a costant current when the sensor signal is high and discharging it when the sensor signal is low. If the input remains high for a time longer than TP the voltage across CP reaches an internally fixed value forcing the slow decrease of coil current to zero. A slow decrease is necessary to avoid undesired sparks. When the input signal goes low again CP is swiftly discharged and the current control loop operates normally. The delay time TP is given by : T P (sec) = 18 C P R 7 Where R7 is the biasing resistor on pin 12 (in K) and Cp the delay capacitor at pin 9 (in µF).

 

Thanks again John, for your input. I forwarded your message onto Greddy USA, in hopes they can add this to future firware upgrades.

 

Screw trying to wait for greddy, someone can make a piece of hardware like this easilly. If it detects a stall, then cut the ignition harness.

 

installed the eu this weekend. i can confirm it does not send enough voltage to the cioils to turn them on or power them. it was the very first thing i tested upon installing the unit and powering up. the factory ecu puts out a constant 0.01-0.02 volts in the ignition on- not running condition. the output from the eu is 0.04-0.05 volts in the same condition. if i can remember it is just a touch over what the factory testing spec is. in comparison the old emanage blue would output 0.67 volts and even with the recommended diodes it would only cut it to 0.54 volts after the diodes. that WAS enough to keep them on. i also had my car in the ignition on and motor not running for hours on end with the coils never even getting warm!! i pulled the diodes back out as it seems the 0.05 volts is not enough to keep the coils on.

conclusion= it is running low enough volts on my car to not turn them on in that condition. so test your car to make sure, but you will probably end up with the same condition as mine and be safe.

 

where did you get that info sharif? from memory the factory testing spec is 0.00v-0.04v, and the eu putting out only 0.05v. did someone else install and come up with a different volt reading?

 

Subscribing...My wiring is done, will check the voltage in the morning.

 

Where did I get what information from? John from J&S posted that information a couple posts up, if that's what you meant.

A had someone call me today, indicating that the EU burned his coils when left in the on position. I started another thead on the topic.

 

was curious if you heard it from greddy or if someone installed it and said they burned one up. it doesn't seem to be high enough on mine to turn them on.

 

It was a member that told me about it. He said he left the key in the on position for an hour or so, and it burned a coil.

 

Maybe the voltage kept flickering above and below the amount needed to power the coils and caused a shortage?

 

ya when i toasted mine with the e blue it actually melted the outside of the coil housing. you would feel heat off of it long before they fried or caused permanent damage. if you don't have a meter, just turn the ignition on and feel a bunch of different coils to see. if they are on they will heat up. i had my ignition on for hours on end cause i wasn't heating them at all. hmmmm

 

so is using a hawker odyssey battery a bad idea with the EU?

 

the battery has nothing to do with it

 

I often leave my key at on at the track for 5-10 minutes between runs because I have wired a manual fan switch to cool the engine. Can I simply unplug the U-E unit while at the track? I.e not bring it at all. Will this prevent the coils from being fried?

 

Of course claw, obviously this is a problem w/ the coil drivers built in the E-Manage.

Someone needs to design a circuit that will detect a stall, if so, cut the coil driver wires from the emanage. I could do it if I had an e-manage and some time...