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Emanage Ulimate--Important Caution

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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 09:14 AM
  #21  
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If you want to run the fan while you are at the track, simply unplug the timing harness. You cannot just unplug the EU and then drive the car, as the EU intercepts the igntion, injector, and MAF wires.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 09:42 AM
  #22  
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Yes, what he said... ^^^

... or if you wish just rewire the switch so the key doesn't have to be in the ON position.

Last edited by DandyMax; Aug 10, 2005 at 09:49 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 10:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
... or if you wish just rewire the switch so the key doesn't have to be in the ON position.
That would be easiest, I think.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JClaw
I often leave my key at on at the track for 5-10 minutes between runs because I have wired a manual fan switch to cool the engine. Can I simply unplug the U-E unit while at the track? I.e not bring it at all. Will this prevent the coils from being fried?
Yes, if you unplug the EU or the timing harness connector, the coils are safe. Obviously, without coil wires, the car wont run.

Your easiest solution is to hook up a manual switch for your fans, and keep the key out of the on position.


I did send an advisory to Greddy about the potential for burnt coils. But I am interested in OverZealous's comments. Maybe the latest firware saves the coils? He is correct, in that the coils physically get warm, and then VERY hot if they are overheating. If he says they were cool to the touch, it seems unlikely the coils would burn.

Last edited by Sharif@Forged; Aug 10, 2005 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 11:36 PM
  #25  
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hate to eat my words on this one, but yup it took another coil!!! it must be a crank/cam position that makes it send the voltage. had my key to on for quite a few hours with no prob. then fired it up and shut it off and then turned it on again and blew the ignition/eccs fuse under the hood. after figuring what was wired through that fuse i unplugged everything and plugged everything back in till the fuse blew again. it was a coil. i pulled my diodes before thinking it to be safe. i have checked voltages before and after the emanage u and it is a very small fraction conpared to the e blue. which is leading me to believe it has to be a crank position signal that is keeping them on now. the e blue would send out a constant 0.65 volts on all signals before the diodes (which only dropped it to 0.54v) the eu only sends out 0.04-0.05v on all signals when i checked it. but i must have heated the coil when it was in a firing position i am thinking. oh well i am stocked up on coils now, hahahha. i have had far bigger probs to deal with on my car, lol.
sorry sharif for misinformation, but i tested it and came up fine before. must just need to be in a firing position to do it.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 07:16 AM
  #26  
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Thanks for sharing your results, albeit not the greatest.

For the time being, everyone should avoid the Key-On-Engine-Off position.
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