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08-15-2005, 06:09 AM

#21

Sharif@Forged

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 7 eleven

Stock is 27degrees. Brian from TS said that the 8psi reflashes run 22deg at WOT. If he is getting only getting a few more horsepower from 2 extra psi it's due to the excessive timing being pulled.

Badmonkey could you post the dyno sheets? I'm betting you can see where the timing is pulled out and the power stops climbing way before it should.Here is a email Brian sent:

Hi Gary. You can definitely bring the car to us for an in house dyno. With it being as low as 14 degrees, it sounds like Sharif from Forged Internals' situation. He had the same problem and it did happen to be the knock sensor. Being at 14 degrees under WOT is not what our programming does. Checking the program I put into your car, it should only retard around 5-6 degrees of timing from stock. Stock computers tune cars to run around 27 degrees under WOT.

Brian Wong
Technical Director
Phone: (310) 787.0847
Fax: (310) 787.0948

I've dyoned about a dozen NA and forced induction 350z's, and the timing I have observed is generally in the neighborhood of 20-27 degrees. It really depends on the run, knock sensor activity, etc.

I dont think we can accurately put a number on the actual timing, becuase it depends on RPM, TPS, MAF voltage, knock, etc...so the timing numbers are going to be a bit scattered, but all within a defined range.

Westpak, the EU logs actual ignition timing after you make the changes, which makes it really easy to make some changes, then datalog and review your actual timing. No more guessing!

7Eleven, ask Brian if its 22degrees across the board at WOT? Its very possible he programs in more retard in the midrange, and then gradually advances it to 22degrees, which may be a good strategy. Also, my bad knock sensor actually resulted in 9-10 degrees of total advnace across the board...yikes.

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08-15-2005, 06:30 AM

#22

westpak

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged

...
Westpak, the EU logs actual ignition timing after you make the changes, which makes it really easy to make some changes, then datalog and review your actual timing. No more guessing!

.....

That definetly will take the guess out of it, one of the reasons I prefer the J&S over the emanage blue for timing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged

......7Eleven, ask Brian if its 22degrees across the board at WOT? Its very possible he programs in more retard in the midrange, and then gradually advances it to 22degrees, which may be a good strategy. Also, my bad knock sensor actually resulted in 9-10 degrees of total advnace across the board...yikes.

I also seem to have a bad knock sensor but not sure it is resulting in 9-10 degrees as I am making the power. Mine doesn't throw a light but does show up if you check the ecu for codes, it shows as excessively high voltage from sensor, I haven't done anything since all is fine, I had it before the TT install.