Emanage Knock Sensor Wiring
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I have my knock sensor tapped in to the emanage, in the knock sensor 1 wire (shared with water temp). Does anyone know what khz setting I need, and if it's "resonant" or "non resonant". (I suppose I should start by looking that up in the dictionary)
Should I just hook up the knock sensor to an analog input?
Also, anyone try the o2 sensor feedback feature out yet to see how that works?
Chris
Should I just hook up the knock sensor to an analog input?
Also, anyone try the o2 sensor feedback feature out yet to see how that works?
Chris
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i also have the question about the knock sensor, as i don't seem to have a reading on the datalogging, but i have it hooked up. as far as the o2 input. i have an aem wideband gauge and used that output for the a/f signal. works nicely in data logging, but there does seem to ba a consistent 0.3-0.4 difference from the gauge reading to the reading in the datalogging.
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
i also have the question about the knock sensor, as i don't seem to have a reading on the datalogging, but i have it hooked up. as far as the o2 input. i have an aem wideband gauge and used that output for the a/f signal. works nicely in data logging, but there does seem to ba a consistent 0.3-0.4 difference from the gauge reading to the reading in the datalogging.
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Overzealous1,
Did you set the voltage in the parameters for the AEM? I was talking to Sharif the other day, he was saying that if you select any of the A/F, then you just put the proper min and max voltage in the boxes. He also said something about it not being linear. The difference in the A/F kinda scares me, if I am going to use the A/F targeting. I have an Innovate gauge enroute, to replace my AEM.
I am curious about the knock sensor parameters, as well. I haven't hooked it up yet, but when I do, I plan to use the water temp and knock sensor together with a A/B position switch.
Did you set the voltage in the parameters for the AEM? I was talking to Sharif the other day, he was saying that if you select any of the A/F, then you just put the proper min and max voltage in the boxes. He also said something about it not being linear. The difference in the A/F kinda scares me, if I am going to use the A/F targeting. I have an Innovate gauge enroute, to replace my AEM.
I am curious about the knock sensor parameters, as well. I haven't hooked it up yet, but when I do, I plan to use the water temp and knock sensor together with a A/B position switch.
Last edited by Badmonkey_1; 08-15-2005 at 08:16 AM.
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Originally Posted by Badmonkey_1
Overzealous1,
Did you set the voltage in the parameters for the AEM? I was talking to Sharif the other day, he was saying that if you select any of the A/F, then you just put the proper min and max voltage in the boxes. The difference in the A/F kinda scares me, if I am going to use the A/F targeting.
.
Did you set the voltage in the parameters for the AEM? I was talking to Sharif the other day, he was saying that if you select any of the A/F, then you just put the proper min and max voltage in the boxes. The difference in the A/F kinda scares me, if I am going to use the A/F targeting.
.
As mentioned, becuase the AEM output is non-linear, there is going to be a slight discrep at the extreme ends of the scale. Typically, the 10.5:1 to 12.5:1 range is pretty close, even if the ouput is non-linear.
Give it a try and let us know what happens.
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Have any idea what frequency it runs on?
Thanks for the info. Seems to me that the frequency is how often it gets a new signal from the knock sensor, so it shouldn't be critical to get it right, but maybe I don't know what the hell I am talking about (likely)
Chris
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Chris
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The AEM instruction manual has a table of voltage values. Put the min and max in there, and the corresponding AF, and the EU will do the rest.
As mentioned, becuase the AEM output is non-linear, there is going to be a slight discrep at the extreme ends of the scale. Typically, the 10.5:1 to 12.5:1 range is pretty close, even if the ouput is non-linear.
Give it a try and let us know what happens.![Big Grin](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As mentioned, becuase the AEM output is non-linear, there is going to be a slight discrep at the extreme ends of the scale. Typically, the 10.5:1 to 12.5:1 range is pretty close, even if the ouput is non-linear.
Give it a try and let us know what happens.
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now back to this stupid knock sensor thing. i went through andf checked all my wiring, tried resonant and non-resonant and many settings with in that. checked all my parameter settings and can't figure out why it will not let me select it for datalogging.after tonight i have dam near every option or hook up that can be done on the Z. the intake air temp and everything else is giving me correct read outs but just can't figure out the knock sensor and why it isn't letting me datalog. very handy to help tune for detonation with it.
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Big Moose has investigated knock sensors here: http://deviantmethods.com/bigmoose/pages/knock.htm
I knew him from the Honda forums a couple of years ago.
I knew him from the Honda forums a couple of years ago.
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Originally Posted by John at J&S
Big Moose has investigated knock sensors here: http://deviantmethods.com/bigmoose/pages/knock.htm
I knew him from the Honda forums a couple of years ago.
I knew him from the Honda forums a couple of years ago.
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John, I have a scopemeter, how would I go about determining the frequency of the knock sensor?
I can send you a knock sensor if you're able to determine it.
Thanks
Chris
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Thanks
Chris
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The Nissan knock sensor, like the Bosch sensor, is non resonant. This means it's not tuned to a specific frequency. GM, Honda, and Toyota sensors are mechanically resonant, like a tuning fork.
The 350Z ECU may have an electronic filter, tuned to the expected frequency of knock, for the given cylinder bore diameter.
I have not found tuned filters or tuned sensors to be the magic bullet for knock detection.
I went back to the Honda forum and did a search on bigmoose, and found a strange post:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=227839
The 350Z ECU may have an electronic filter, tuned to the expected frequency of knock, for the given cylinder bore diameter.
I have not found tuned filters or tuned sensors to be the magic bullet for knock detection.
I went back to the Honda forum and did a search on bigmoose, and found a strange post:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=227839
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i have a stupid question. Why the *&%^ do they add all this crap to the motor? It doesnt add more power, it just makes it less reliable, less fun to own, less user-friendly, and less customer repurchase.
I have a stupid idle problem. Took front end of car apart to chrome all plastic in engine area(even radiator & radiator frame). The car was apart about three months, battery totally died, so most likely everything (back up batteries died too) had lost its memory. Now I start car, it starts right up, but will not idle. Runs about 10 seconds then quits.
But while running, sounds good, and strong - then cuts out. I tried ECU reset. Still rund like shipt.
I have a stupid idle problem. Took front end of car apart to chrome all plastic in engine area(even radiator & radiator frame). The car was apart about three months, battery totally died, so most likely everything (back up batteries died too) had lost its memory. Now I start car, it starts right up, but will not idle. Runs about 10 seconds then quits.
But while running, sounds good, and strong - then cuts out. I tried ECU reset. Still rund like shipt.
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Originally Posted by lopchild
i have a stupid question. Why the *&%^ do they add all this crap to the motor? It doesnt add more power, it just makes it less reliable, less fun to own, less user-friendly, and less customer repurchase.
I have a stupid idle problem. Took front end of car apart to chrome all plastic in engine area(even radiator & radiator frame). The car was apart about three months, battery totally died, so most likely everything (back up batteries died too) had lost its memory. Now I start car, it starts right up, but will not idle. Runs about 10 seconds then quits.
But while running, sounds good, and strong - then cuts out. I tried ECU reset. Still rund like shipt.
I have a stupid idle problem. Took front end of car apart to chrome all plastic in engine area(even radiator & radiator frame). The car was apart about three months, battery totally died, so most likely everything (back up batteries died too) had lost its memory. Now I start car, it starts right up, but will not idle. Runs about 10 seconds then quits.
But while running, sounds good, and strong - then cuts out. I tried ECU reset. Still rund like shipt.
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