As some of you know I just did a self APS install. One thing I'm currently missing is any feed back. I have no idea what my A/F ratios are, water temp, oil temp, egt, etc.

I took my car into a local shop on Monday only to have their Dyno go down before I could do anything with it. So now I'm looking to find another shop so I can verify my setup.

In the mean time I want to plan out what to monitor, and how I'm going to manage it.

I haven't added any aftermarket gauges or sensors as of yet. My ultimate goal is to run all forged inernals, and use the Greddy Ulitmate as the computer to tune the system. So I'd like a setup that is compatable with the Greddy so I don't have to do two buys.

Of all the temps and pressures... What would you monitor?

And what gauge setup would you run? (I like the defi HUD, so I don' thave to run 20 pods.) I just don't know if that is compatable, and of what information is availabe what is most important...

Or should I just buy water injection and call it a day. =D

 

I have a Greddy Profec E0-1 and I think it's a great way to run multiple gauges and keep a clean interior. I'm not sure if it's compatible with the EU, though. It will show you boost, is compatible with all types of Greddy gauges, and with a supplemental harness it can read a wideband 02 signal and much more. If you want to turn up the boost when you get your bottom end built, you're going to need a boost controller and it's a boost controller as well. You can have the E0-1 mounted in plain sight and all of your other supplemental gauges hidden. I really like the Defi HUD as well, though.
Does anyone know if the E0-1 will work with the EU? I haven't researched the EU much yet.

 

E0-1 is NOT compatable...

They are making a new one... But I don't know when it will be out.

 

Here's a post from the EU GB.

 

Ahh, thanks guys. You saved me a search.

That's not a big deal. I didn't like programming the Emanage with the E0-1 anyway. That's great that the EU is still compatible with the pressure sensor, though. I still think the E0-1 would be a viable option but if an E0-1 Ultimate were to come out, that would probably be best.

 

I think most people run wideband A/F, water temperature, and oil pressure. Some people also run an EGT gauge but, to me, that seems redundant.

I always hear mixed views on water/alcohol injection. A direct injection setup would be best but I don't know how complicated or costly it would be to fabricate a system like that on the Z. Personally, I don't think I'd run alcohol/water injection. Although, many people have had great success with water injection setups.

 

I have a wideband a/f, fuel pressure, boost, and egt gauge. EGT is important because even if you a/f ratio is right on your inlet temps can be dangerously high and you won't know without EGT.

I am running an Aquamist 1S system. I don't use it to tune for more power, but as a safety feature to cool the inlet temps.

 

Anymore questions? I'll answer them for you and then Gman can correct me.

HAHA just kidding

 

I see your running the EU system.

What guages do you run (brand wise?)

I keep seeing posts about EGT, wouldn't oil temp get me similar information... Obviously it would take a bit longer... I'd have to be burning HOT for a while before my oil temp would go up.


spdkils

 

Here is a thread about EGT and A/F when tuning.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/137457-tuning-via-egt-vs-wide-band-narrow-band-meters.html

 

I have a AEM wideband, defi d boost and fuel pressure gauge in an a pillar. Since I didn't have space in the pillar for an EGT gauge and I don't want to hack up my car, I bought the PLX R-500 for my EGT gauge. It just so happens that I will get a second wideband and a knock amp with the PLX. I am going to have it installed in my sunglass holder.

http://www.plxdevices.com/R-500_productinfo.htm

 

Also I am not worried about my oil temps. I don't auto cross so with my spirited driving or ocassional floggin it is not a ploblem.

 

I forgot about the R-500. That looks like a really good unit. I've heard from a couple local tuners that the PLX widebands seem to be more accurate than the AEM. Why do you have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car?

 

So I can see if I loose pressure. It might not be fast enough, but if all of a sudden I loose pressure during boost I can shut her down.

 

Aside from a line blowing off or your pump burning out (which should never happen), what would cause that? That seems like another gauge that isn't really necessary. I understand it being near the FPR for tuning purposes, though.

 

yeah, chances of happening are slim. So yes used to tune the car, and also I had a extra hole in my gauge pod. They don't make double pillars for the G. When I bought the pod, I had a vortech. If I would have had the Greddy at the time I bought the pod, I would have bought an EGT gauge instead.

 

Gmann, any info on the aquamist 1S system.. thanks

 

Oh, thanks for that link on EGT gauges. It seems like you could run a much more aggressive tune with more "piece of mind" if you tune like that. I probably won't run leaded fuel in my car, though, since normal TiAL wastegates aren't rated for it. I know alot of people like C16 but I'll probably never use it on my street car.

 

what info you looking for. I paid $560. It is set up to start working at 5psi and I am having the car tuned as if it was not there. Not trying to make more power with it, I just want some extra safety.

 

Spray onto the I/C or into the intake? A web link or site would be helpful. Thanks