kcobean

iTrader: (2)

The back-lights on my Defi Link-controller II and on my Defi D-Link gauges are not coming on when I turn my lights on. The gauges themselves are working fine, and all the functions of the LC-II are normal (record, peak hold, peak-warn), but the backlights don't work. Just to see if I had an intermittent connection, I pulled the DC Source connector off the back of the LC-II and reconnected it. The back-lights on the gauges and the LC-II came on while initialization occured, but as soon as it completed, the lights went off. Same thing when I first start the car.....lights come on, then go off. Did I somehow set the lights to off and just don't know it, or do I have a bad LC-II. It's mounted in my console between the shift-lever and the climate control *****, and I'm wondering if maybe it just got too hot and something malfunctioned inside the LC-II.

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

theking

iTrader: (3)

Do you have the wire for the backlights connected to one of your headlight fuses. It sounds like you don't have the backlight trigger hooked up.

zero2prove

Wire from the guage is in the wrong meter output on the link controller. Switch it and it should lite up for you.

-Tuan

kcobean

iTrader: (2)

theking: sounds like you've got the right idea. I'll check that, thanks.

Tuan: everything worked normally until about half-way through my drive last night, then the back-lights went out, so everything on the LC-II is hooked up properly.

kcobean

iTrader: (2)

Just a closure for contributors...This turned out to be my 10A fuse for my tail/marker lights. My Defi gauges and my fog-lamps are all running on this circuit, and I popped the fuse. I didn't even think to check and see that none of my marker lights or tail lights weren't working.

I think because of the foglamps, I will increase this to a 15A fuse since it is such a major PITA to get to for something as simple as a fuse. Thanks again for your help guys.

theking

iTrader: (3)

You can do that and I would suggest a 20A as most 18ga wire can flow that much current easily and you are probably pulling more than 5A at certain times.. Or you can use the same wire and use a DMM and check which is the unfused(source) side and get it from that side.

kcobean

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I actually just posted in the lighting forum to see if people thought a 15A was safe or not. You think a 20A is ok / needed? I would imagine the draw on this circuit to be relatively constant as there are no relays or anything that should cause voltage fluctuation. It's all just light bulbs that are either on or off. The turn signals are on a different circuit. Also, this stuff all ran for weeks before popping the fuse, so I must have been right on the edge with the 10A fuse.

As amateur as it sounds, I'm not even sure where the shops that installed the gauges or the foglights tapped into this circuit. All I know is it's not at the front side of the fuse block. For my own safety, I'm probably safest to just up the fuse to a 15 or 20 and call it a day.

Again, thanks for your help.