SES P0300 code
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SES P0300 code
I heard that ALL FI Z got this code P0300 which is a tune up code. I can't pass inspection in NY because of the code. NY now plug in the serial port under the dash and scan the car. If the car is throwing any code then you won't pass inspection. Wondering if any one out that has the same code and cleared it. I cleared it with the pedal procedure and pulled the battery but it came right back on again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Go get an OBD2 scan tool and use that to erase it. It happens to alot of people here and doing the pedal procedure is a pain compared to the 15 seconds it takes to do it with the tool. I keep the tool right behind my seat. It's also good to have just in case you have another code.
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Originally Posted by theking
Go get an OBD2 scan tool and use that to erase it. It happens to alot of people here and doing the pedal procedure is a pain compared to the 15 seconds it takes to do it with the tool. I keep the tool right behind my seat. It's also good to have just in case you have another code.
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Originally Posted by Z PHAT Z
If using the OBD2 scan tool to erase the code, will it comes back on again? I need the code to be off for a while to be able to pass inspection. Thanks.
#6
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Sharif can explain the cause of the CEL . It has to do with the bigger injectors and return fuel system . I clear mine and it stays off till I restart the car when its warm and has a hard start . Ive learn to just give it a little gas on a warm start and it pops right off , but still get the CEL .
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The 0300 code has been affecting almost all F/I cars and it seems the 04 and on cars have it worse. I've been trying to figure out what causes it myself and so has Turbonetics...So far we know the CAS wire may help but doesnt eliminate it. But there is some other stuff in the works...
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#9
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Originally Posted by booger
would be nice if some one figured it out and found a fix for it
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I'm getting pretty good with the pedal procedure. LOL I can do it without a stop watch. The thing is that it came back on like in 10 minutes. I have to somehow stay off for more than 60 miles to pass inspection. Hope someone find a fix for it soon. Thanks guys.
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Originally Posted by cquence 350 [Z]
After I erased mine, it stays off for awhile. Enough time to get you through the check. Just erase it when you get close to the smog inspection. This way it stays off until they check it. And I leave mine behind the passenger seat as well. you should get one. I got mine for 75 shipped.
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i have one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBD2-...75731779QQrdZ1
works great for $37 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBD2-...75731779QQrdZ1
works great for $37 shipped
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i got the "150.00 hook-up inspection", for 100.00 extra its worth every penny, pass everytime, guess thing are alot harder up north, in texas, you can just spot out inspection shops that will do that for you.
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The only time I've ever gotten that code is when my RaceLogic is misfiring me like mad when I'm trying to slide.
If you get a scanner... just leave it plugged into your car... Clear it 10 seconds before you roll into the shop... Pull it, and leave the car running.
spdkils
If you get a scanner... just leave it plugged into your car... Clear it 10 seconds before you roll into the shop... Pull it, and leave the car running.
spdkils
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it is nothing to be worried about. Doesn't really do anything but just annoys you cause you have that SES light in your console. To me it is nothing since I always turn my VDC off.
#18
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It's not that easy to get your car inspect in NY anymore. You have to clear the code then have to drive the car for more than 60 miles or couple days for the system to recycle and ready. You just can't clear and drive it up to inspect, it will failed right away. My inspection will expired at the end of this month. Don't know what to do now.
#19
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the po300 code is for random multiple misfire. it is caused by the crank pos sensor signal to vary in relationship to rpm. it actually is a serious problem for f/i. i won't hardly drive my car till i get it figured out. mine is pretty bad though as i get an audible misfire, and drive around clearing codes when they pop up. but usually once it starts mine won't go away. i have gotten a bunch of military grade communications shielded wire and plan to do the crank pos wire and both cam wires too to see if it eliminates it.