pauter rods
cp pistons 8.5.1
arp studs

also replacing the crank and oil pump.. my block was fine...the rod end baring went because of lack of oil.. not install or tune.. the engine went because im a dumbass and put off a oil change for a little.. *kicks self* i guess when the baring went the crank went with it from the rod slapping it..i thought it would have been ok since i turned the car off right away but i guess i was wrong.... and you cant get oversized barings to machine the crank? so i have to replace the whole crank ... damnit!


engine is at the builder right now....also upgrading the aps acuators.. and 1 mile after break in of my engine i will be upgrading the injectors to rc 650's and putting in the ats twin disc clutch and dropping the UTEC in...and cranking this boost up.. wish me luck .. lets shoot for 600+ rwhp

to go where no 2005 g35 aka 300hp rated engine has gone before.. haha maybe this baring failure was a blessing in disquise cause now ill be running with the big boys.. pssssshhhhh

 

How long did you go without an oil change?

 

about 1000 miles over ... do not do that btw. .its not a good idea.. haha i actually got ready to do it the day it blew but said **** it .. it will wait another day and drove to the mall.. on the way back from the mall is when it went.. King of prussia mall is about a hour and a half away from where i live haha..

 

damn, good to hear things turned out okay though. I change my oil every 2000 miles since putting the APS kit on.. no more waiting for 3000 miles. If you dont mind me asking how much is the labor costing on rods and pistons? I may go that route myself.

 

about 2 g's for the build.. parts are another story.. haha

 

what the hell happened to my post?

why are you replacing the crank? was it damaged during the oil starvation?

 

lol tig.. lay off the coffee.. you posted on g35driver.. the baring went on cylinder #6 and the rod was slapping it.. you cant get oversized barings to machine the crank so i have to get a whole new crank.... i wonder if someone could custom fab up some barings? anyone know?

 

haha, my bad.

 

you really should consider a set of cams since it's apart. Def worthwhile gains. The JWT S1 works fine. You will also want a full return fuel system AAM or CJM sports when you jack up the injectors. Also note that here in SJ Cali we have proven that a good alternate to the larger injectors on the APS TT is to add a > 2:1 RR (ie the BEGI FPR) which can be bought from ATP turbo. The nice part with this method is that you can adjust base psi "down" to ~38psi and adjust rising rate up ~2:1. This gives you a better idle and off boost response than bumping to 650s . Even at ~600rwhp power levels you'd never need to top 100psi max pump pressure and it is still tuneable with equipped Unichip. Just another proven alternative.

 

hope things go smoothly, BTW, not trying to be an a$$, just FYI... it is a BEARING

 

do you have atp turbo's contact info? also about the cams.. i have the 300hp rated engine and nobody knows if i can even get aftermarket cams to work..

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/root/navigation/contactus.php

 

just wondering, how many quarts of oil did u have left before it blew?

 

Specifically the BEGI unit looks like this . It a little ET looking but it works very well and give ulimate control of the analog operation of your fuel system. Bell also sells a version with an integrated static (off boost) reg.
Other wise you need to run a static reg in series with this n:1 reg.

BTW it has been shown to work @ ~540rwhp on <9:0 CR , base APS TT , base Bosch injectors, base Unichip , upgraded TF actuators , AAM return system with "lots" of rwhp headroom and very smooth idle.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

BTW the 300hp OEM cams work "almost" as well (+smoother idle) than the JWT S1s on the pre-2005s. If I had a 2005 , I prolley would have left those cams alone.

 

All FI guys need to monitor their oil levels. I took my car in to get rear tires put on a couple weeks ago and Luke from ZCG asked me how's my oil level. I told him I checked it a couple days ago at the gas station and it was in the middle.

Well we all know how crappy our dipsticks are and that reading the oil level when hot is not advised. So he goes to check it since my car had sat for a while and he was like "dude your low". I was dumbfounded but sure enough i was. He was able to put almost 2 quarts in. So guys keep an eye on that oil. This was only at 2200 mi in the oil cycle. I change mine every 2500 but 2k might not be bad.

Im running 10w40

 

thanks.. thats awesome news.. ill stay stock on the cams and invest on this fuel system.. i love my350z.com.. you guys rule

 

Amsoil? I know I was burning Mobil 1. At least a quart every 3000 miles. I tried Royal Purple 10W-30 and it was better but the motor seemed to be rougher and I had more valvetrain noise. I am running Turbonetics TS-1 which is listed as 5W-30. So far the motor is much more quiet, smoother, and I haven't burned any yet. I'll know for sure in about 500 miles when I change again.

 

It was mobil 1 i believe or it may be valvolene not sure. I put all faith in my tuners. So what oil are you using and how much has it burned. All our motors burn oil, its just a matter of how much. It says in the manual that its not uncommon to see 2 quarts missing. I think it said 2 but it may be 1. I read it this weekend.

 

Well I ran Mobil 1 10W-30 for a while..I kept losing a quart or more every oil change...Switched to Royal Purple 10W-30 and I burned much less but the valve train got noisy and the car didn't seem right..I am trying Turbonetics TS-1 oil. Its a 5W-30 oil. Engine seems to run a bit smoother. Valvetrain noise went away...so far the dipstick doesn't show any is gone...but I'll know for sure when I change it again..