Oil Pan Spacer
10-28-2005, 11:58 AM
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Oil Pan Spacer
New AAM Spec Oil Pan Spacer kit
This new item is fresh out of testing. We found some things lacking with other similar options on the market. Specifically the overall fit and finish. Also tapping an unconventional shape can be a bear, even for a machine shop. This is a great upgrade for NA cars, FI cars, or cars that may be upgrading to FI in the future. We will be releasing stainless steel line kits in the next few weeks that will allow direct -AN connection for the following kits:
Greddy:
Dual -10 AN Stainless Lines that connect to the Greddy provided return tubes
We have found on our shop car and on customer’s cars that the banjo fittings that Greddy provides tend to leak. Also the banjo style fittings have relatively small holes for drainage.
Vortech and Turbonetics Owners:
Single Pre-terminated -10 AN Stainless Line that will directly connect from the Turbo/Supercharger to the Spacer
We don't like the idea of having to tap the factory upper pan so this is a great solution. This will also allow the car to be returned to stock with much less hassle. Also if the turbo or supercharger needs to be removed for service then the spacer can be capped off. The fitting included with the Turbonetics kit are very hard and if overtightened can crack or strip the upper pan. The Vortech includes nice fittings but they can also be a source of leaks. Because the material in that area is a little thin we are always concerned with over tightening the fitting and stripping it out.
Small note on thread and fitting styles. The Vortech and Turbonetics use NPT (National Pipe Taper) out of the box, which is considered a "deforming" thread style. This is also called a tapered thread. This type of thread design can only be used so many times before the threads deform so badly they are unusable. At this point a larger thread size must be used.
AN style fittings use an equal thread. The sealing occurs between the nose of the male fitting and the nose of the female fitting, not through the threads themselves. A 37deg. surface around the circumference of the nose provides a seal that is tested to the many thousands of PSI. This type of thread can be used many times before wearing out. The sealing surface of the nose can only be damaged by contaminants like sand or dirt.
Dual pre-taps for 3/4"-16
Allows -10AN Line and JIC/UNF Fittings to be used*
- No Leak Connection
- Easy Access and Disconnect
- No need to tap your upper pan with the Turbonetics or Vortech kits (makes converting back to stock much easier)
*Must use AAM adaptor to have true -10 internal bore
Pre-tapped for 1/8" NPT
Allows any 1/8" NPT Threaded Component to come in contact with oil
- Easy, secure, and removable connection of both Metric (Greddy, Apex'i, Defi) and Standard (Autometer) Temperature sensors to be installed
1" Spacer for Pan and Pickup
Increases oil capacity
- Runs Cooler Temps
- More oil is able to take on more contaminants before becoming ineffective in lubricating
Billet 6061 Cut on a Haas VF-4 CNC Mill
Able to cut with very tight tolerances - to the .001 of an inch!
- Guaranteed to fit properly, bolt up properly, and no chance of leaking if installed properly
We'll be starting a group buy in the next few days.
Retail on the spacer kit is $149
The line kits will be sold separately and will range from $49 to $119. The spacer kit by itself includes plugs for the Dual Taps and the NPT Sensor Tap.
This new item is fresh out of testing. We found some things lacking with other similar options on the market. Specifically the overall fit and finish. Also tapping an unconventional shape can be a bear, even for a machine shop. This is a great upgrade for NA cars, FI cars, or cars that may be upgrading to FI in the future. We will be releasing stainless steel line kits in the next few weeks that will allow direct -AN connection for the following kits:
Greddy:
Dual -10 AN Stainless Lines that connect to the Greddy provided return tubes
We have found on our shop car and on customer’s cars that the banjo fittings that Greddy provides tend to leak. Also the banjo style fittings have relatively small holes for drainage.
Vortech and Turbonetics Owners:
Single Pre-terminated -10 AN Stainless Line that will directly connect from the Turbo/Supercharger to the Spacer
We don't like the idea of having to tap the factory upper pan so this is a great solution. This will also allow the car to be returned to stock with much less hassle. Also if the turbo or supercharger needs to be removed for service then the spacer can be capped off. The fitting included with the Turbonetics kit are very hard and if overtightened can crack or strip the upper pan. The Vortech includes nice fittings but they can also be a source of leaks. Because the material in that area is a little thin we are always concerned with over tightening the fitting and stripping it out.
Small note on thread and fitting styles. The Vortech and Turbonetics use NPT (National Pipe Taper) out of the box, which is considered a "deforming" thread style. This is also called a tapered thread. This type of thread design can only be used so many times before the threads deform so badly they are unusable. At this point a larger thread size must be used.
AN style fittings use an equal thread. The sealing occurs between the nose of the male fitting and the nose of the female fitting, not through the threads themselves. A 37deg. surface around the circumference of the nose provides a seal that is tested to the many thousands of PSI. This type of thread can be used many times before wearing out. The sealing surface of the nose can only be damaged by contaminants like sand or dirt.
Dual pre-taps for 3/4"-16
Allows -10AN Line and JIC/UNF Fittings to be used*
- No Leak Connection
- Easy Access and Disconnect
- No need to tap your upper pan with the Turbonetics or Vortech kits (makes converting back to stock much easier)
*Must use AAM adaptor to have true -10 internal bore
Pre-tapped for 1/8" NPT
Allows any 1/8" NPT Threaded Component to come in contact with oil
- Easy, secure, and removable connection of both Metric (Greddy, Apex'i, Defi) and Standard (Autometer) Temperature sensors to be installed
1" Spacer for Pan and Pickup
Increases oil capacity
- Runs Cooler Temps
- More oil is able to take on more contaminants before becoming ineffective in lubricating
Billet 6061 Cut on a Haas VF-4 CNC Mill
Able to cut with very tight tolerances - to the .001 of an inch!
- Guaranteed to fit properly, bolt up properly, and no chance of leaking if installed properly
We'll be starting a group buy in the next few days.
Retail on the spacer kit is $149
The line kits will be sold separately and will range from $49 to $119. The spacer kit by itself includes plugs for the Dual Taps and the NPT Sensor Tap.
10-28-2005, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
This looks very promising....So is it $149 for the spacer and then another $45 for the SS braided return line?
We'll do a GB price.
10-28-2005, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dynamic6er
Yep the spacer is $149 with plugs, bolts, washers, etc. Then depending on the FI kit the system is going to be used with the lines will range from ~$49 to ~$119. Becasue the Greddy's use two line...etc...etc.
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10-29-2005, 06:03 AM
#8
Unless I'm missing something, this spacer can't be used with the Vortech system which requires the oil return line to be above the highest level of the oil in the pan--i.e. above "sea level". Call Vortech to confirm this. This will definitely void the warranty and will damage the blower by preventing good oil flow past the bearings.
10-29-2005, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by gersteinp
... the Vortech system which requires the oil return line to be above the highest level of the oil in the pan--i.e. above "sea level".
Last edited by prescience; 10-29-2005 at 07:13 AM.
10-29-2005, 09:38 AM
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Technically the Turbonetics kit is the same way however I know several people personally who are running the return to the pan spacer (JWT that is) And JWT runs their own returns there.
10-29-2005, 10:03 AM
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The Turbonetics returns to this location shown in the picture, which is taken from their current online instructions. We have tested the spacer on a Turbonetics kit we installed and it functions 100% properly and has no flooding of the bearings.
Both Greddy and APS return to these points.
In regards to the Vortech return I disagree 100% that the oil return must be that high. What I will do is contact the technical department at Vortech and get a written response as to what they think. If they will not support the application then I will note this blantantly on all documentation and ads so there is no confusion. The oil systems of the Votechs and the Turbo kits are essentially the same in regards to feed line size and return line size. They run the same pressures on the feed line. But as I said Vortech will be our final answer.
Both Greddy and APS return to these points.
In regards to the Vortech return I disagree 100% that the oil return must be that high. What I will do is contact the technical department at Vortech and get a written response as to what they think. If they will not support the application then I will note this blantantly on all documentation and ads so there is no confusion. The oil systems of the Votechs and the Turbo kits are essentially the same in regards to feed line size and return line size. They run the same pressures on the feed line. But as I said Vortech will be our final answer.
10-29-2005, 12:24 PM
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Not to interlope here, but I have not received replies to my other posts, and you guys seem like experts here.
Can someone show me PLEASE, where an Oil Pressure Gauge sending unit would go. I have a "G" Coupe, and will be getting one next week. You "Z" guys already have this gauge, and I assume the sending unit. I believe it's near the Filter and the sump, but where? How is it attached? etc??
Thanks
Lou
Can someone show me PLEASE, where an Oil Pressure Gauge sending unit would go. I have a "G" Coupe, and will be getting one next week. You "Z" guys already have this gauge, and I assume the sending unit. I believe it's near the Filter and the sump, but where? How is it attached? etc??
Thanks
Lou
10-29-2005, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tig488
when i had my vortech i tapped mine where the red dot is. worked fine.
That is the issue here, not the technical justification which may well be apposite (as Phunk says).
10-29-2005, 02:51 PM
#17
As I understand it, the Vortech's oil return being totally a passive drain-back (not under pressure), needs to enter the oil pan via air, not oil. Otherwise, it has to displace the oil above the return port to enter the oil pan. If flow through the return line is fast enough, this will flood the bearings and prevent flow-through.
In answer to lowrider, the oil sender unit is just below and towards the front of the car from the oil filter. If you drop down the back side of the gravel guard and get under the car just to the right of the passenger front wheel, looking straight at the top of the oil filter it's to the right and a little below. There's a wire connecting to it that goes to the idiot light on the dash. It's surrounded by a gray plastic collar and behind the collar is a brass hex fitting. To remove it, pull off the wire connector and use an oil sender socket that you can buy in any auto parts store for about $6 to which you connect a 3/8" drive socket wrench.
When you take out the sender, some oil will drip out so have a little container to catch it or you'll make a mess. Screwing in the new unit, use some Teflon tape on the threads (won't cause any problems). DO NOT overtighten. Just tighten enough, start up the engine and look for any tiny drops of oil forming on the underside of the hex fitting. If so, another 1/4 turn or so should do it.
In answer to lowrider, the oil sender unit is just below and towards the front of the car from the oil filter. If you drop down the back side of the gravel guard and get under the car just to the right of the passenger front wheel, looking straight at the top of the oil filter it's to the right and a little below. There's a wire connecting to it that goes to the idiot light on the dash. It's surrounded by a gray plastic collar and behind the collar is a brass hex fitting. To remove it, pull off the wire connector and use an oil sender socket that you can buy in any auto parts store for about $6 to which you connect a 3/8" drive socket wrench.
When you take out the sender, some oil will drip out so have a little container to catch it or you'll make a mess. Screwing in the new unit, use some Teflon tape on the threads (won't cause any problems). DO NOT overtighten. Just tighten enough, start up the engine and look for any tiny drops of oil forming on the underside of the hex fitting. If so, another 1/4 turn or so should do it.
