do you have a nismo low temp thermostat or the oem?

 

I'll speak up since both MIA and I are not running thermostats. You don't really gut it since it simply bolts to the housing. Once you take out the three bolts to remove the housing you simply take the two bolts out that hold the thermostat to the housing from the inside. They are strange reverse edged looking philips type(I have no idea what they are) but they can be taken out with good needlenose plyers. It takes a little while longer to heat up in the morning when cold but I live in Florida and the car is garage kept so it's not really an issue.

On another note. Anyone run a Greddy radiator breather/purge tank? I think running this where the two lines that feed the throttle body are and using these to run to the breather tank to constantly purge the system might help these air pocket issues. Anyone, Bueler, Bueler?

 

can you explain how the hell you get air pockets in your cooling system? my car ran fine for two months after I installed the PE radiator and then one day when not even boosting the temp gauge start rising past the midpoint.

 

It happens as small air bubbles get taken through the system as the system is just warming up. On most cars the system purges itself as the airpockets get sent back towards the radiator where they should be. Our heater core is positioned fairly high within the car so air likes to get trapped there. When this happens the hot air accumulates in the heater core and basically superheats the engine. I figure running a purge tank(as you normally would with a low positioned radiator) would help this situation. I know SGP runs these purge tanks on a number of cars they just don't advertise out their a** like other tuners.


Jorge, if you want me to explain it more then PM me and I will explain it to you in simpler terms but I won't on here because I know I'd get flamed!!!!!

 

I am running an air separation tank, so the thermostat could definitely be the issue. I ma currently running the Nismo thermostat. Does the heater blow cold air if the thermostat is toast? Here is a pic of the breather tank.

SGP installed this, and it worked well until the other day. Apparently either air is trapped or the thermostat is bad.

 

Do you know where all the lines are running? Did they weld up the radiator?

 

Ditto for the king. You pull the entire housing and there are two bolts that hold on the actual thermostat. I drilled mine out. Cleaned up the assembly and reinstalled. The rest is history. The effects are exactly as the king stated. A bit longer warm up. My water temp gauge (aftermarket) is in my coolant return line from the block to the radiator and shows a 15 degree drop in water temp after that. As for symptoms. Yes my heater was blowing cold air and my car would skyrocket hot after 20 minutes of driving.

 

One line runs in from the radiator (the top of the radiator for purging) and the other runs to the ground to allow air and/or coolant to exit. They did not weld the radiator, just replaced the cap with a cap with no spring that will not blow.

 

Tim-
i dont think you need to worry about 210*F water temps...
i operate normally at 190-220 all the time.. when i drift it gets up there..maybe 230+...

you have the Koyo, right? Thicker or STock width?

 

try buying some Water Wetter from Redline...

WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations. 12 oz.

Basically, it removes bubbles from your cooling system, this allowing the collant to do a better job.

Watch this... http://www.redlineoil.com/products_c...coolantFlash=1

 

Cheston, what does your stock temp guage read @ 230? I am guessing right at the halfway mark, right?

 

Would your car overheat consistently or occassionally? Mine started to overheat on only two occassions. When I was trying to bleed my cooling system, I idled the car with the heater on and the air that came out was cool.

 

Thats a fine product but these guys here have issues with their cooling system. Adding Water Wetter will improve an already good cooling system. Its no band aid though.

 

Jorge, this was my first time to ever hit 1/2 way or above on the stock temp guage which was around 230 F or so.

 

No I started noticing that my stock gauges was reading a bit higher then normal but my water temp gauge on the return line showed normal temps so I thought nothing of it. Then I started hearing the fanms on high speed ore often and again the return temps were the same so I thought nothing of it. Finally one day on my way to work I had driven for about 10 minutes and was stopped at a light and the stock gauge went to high and then by the time I got home it was at the top. I turned the heater on but got cold air. I replaced the thermostat and everything went back to normal. 2 months later the SAME thing happened. I was driving home and stopped at a light and blam car overheated. I babied it to my house and shut it off. The next day I got a new thermostat again and babied it to a buddies house. Interestingly I drove the whole way with the heater on and I would get cold air most of the time with occasional blasts of hot air. It didn't overheat until I got off the freeway and to a light. Then it went to max hot. Babied to my buddies garage and turned off the motor. I pulled the thermostat and my buddy suggessted running without one. So I kept the new stock t-stat as a spare and removed the failed t-stat from the assembly and have been running like that ever since. I also replaced the stock cap with a Nismo one at the same time. Since then I have seen a 15 degree drop in water temp at the outlet side since..Prior to that on a functioning stock thermostat my outlet water temp was steady at 195. After removing the stock thermostat my water temp at the oulet is 180 degrees during normal operation.

 

@ 230, the line is slightly half way.. normal temps like.. 190 is slightly below half way.

the darn thing doesnt start to move until like 240/250.

i'm using the CMX100 to give me my water temps off obd2 port.. its whatever the temps the ECU is getting....

 

Thats a good device and I think I'm going to get myself one for Christmas. I like having my water temp on the return pipe too as it tells me what the water temp is leaving the motor as well. This device would also tell me at the stock sensor in the back plus air intake temps as well.

 

Dont worry Tim Jotech will fix it, or find out how to make it work right. They just finished up my Vpro 449rwp &429lbsT@8.5psi.
There all yours. Watch it be something simple, probaly is.....

 

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and comments. Just as I originally thought, it was an air pocket. Jotech evacuated the air and coolant with the suction tool, and now, no problems. I logged everything from the obdII and I am back in business.

 

sweet Tim. good to hear your baby is healthy again.

now.. go get some temp gauges!!! :P