I know better, but I removed the radiator cap to check the fluid level about 30 minutes after the car had been idling. I did not drive it, but the engine was at normal operating temprature. Unfortunately, 30 minutes wasn't long enough. I popped the cap and coolant came spewing out. I filled it up, let the car idle, trying to get the bubbles out, and ran the car.

I did 3 boosted runs in about 5 minutes, and the temp guage did not move. After the last run, I was driving normal for just about a minute or so and looked down....... and whoa!! The temp guage was 2/3 or a little higher up toward the H. Not past the second line, but way high. I was on my street, so I drove to the house and let the car idle for a minute. It immediately dropped down to the halfway point.

My question is this... Anyone know how hot that is? I am not too concerned as I think it is just a bubble and I did not boost while the temp guage was up, but we all know how lazy the POS stock guage is. I know I am way over 220, but am I below 260?

 

My water temp has hit 205 without the stock gauge even blinking. When my thermostat failed I couldn't get a decent reading from the return line but I can tell you if the stock gauge goes up don't take that lightly AT ALL. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

Yeah, I know it has to break ~220 to even move, but then it moves aggressively. Like I said, POS guage. I guess Nissan wanted us to think stock cars run at the same temp at all times. I guess that is true between 160 and 220. Those numbers are very close to each other.

 

i remember riding in your car tim, and your Temp was getting hot. Did your engine come with a different thermostat, like a nismo? I think they have alot of upgrades now for the coolant system www.theexperience.com had some good stuff. If you think its bad now, wait till next summer, BTW did you have your decks sealed?

 

This is only the second time I have ever exceeded the stock setting temp. The first time was after 3 VERY hard back to back runs in 100 degree weather and it barely inched past stock. This time was after 3 short runs in cool temps.

I have a Nismo thermostat, and a Koyo radiator, and run distilled water w/ coolant, not to mention open wastegates. I have addressed cooling other than an additive. This issue has all the symptoms of air in the cooling system.

 

at line right at H its supposed to be 130C and at the line right at C its about 50C. in between its 70-105.. the gauge is really not that usefull.. its like a AF gauge attached to a narrow band sensor

 

What is the center in Farenheit? How about 2/3 in F?

 

Mine stays slightly below the half way like in the 8 o'clock position. Im not making as much power but i do drive hard.

 

That would be my first guess. If the needle ever moves beyond half, I would shut the car down immediately and let it cool down. The needle doesnt start moving until 230 degrees, and the ECU will shut the engine down if it exceeds 260F...IIRC...I cant recall the exact temp.

 

I have the same problem with my Turbo I30. When I drive normal the temp never moves from the middle but if I do back to back runs on the HWY the temp starts to climb. What could be the cause of that?

 

If your sure there are no air bubbles in your coolant system, that that sounds like you need a better cooling solution. Larger oil coolers and radiators surely help.

 

I never thought about an oil cooler, I do have an upgraded radiator(Griffin) with Flex-a-lite fans, and I'm pretty sure I don't have any air bubbles. So do you think an oil cooler will help.
Oh and Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

 

Back in the day when i had a automatic turbo nissan altima i (cant remember exactly how much boost i was running think it was about 6 or 7) but my temp guage use to jump like crazy when i would run it, added a tranny and oil cooler and helped alot took a min to install but was def worth it and noticed a difference and that was with factory radiator

 

No engine can be expected to survive repeated 20sec+ blasts at full throttle with lots of boost. The cooling system/oil system cannot cope with this type of heat. Even race cars see WOT for just 10 seconds or less, then back down through the gears and lots of quick throttle operation. Oil coolers and upgraded cooling systems can help to a degree.

 

It is definitely air. The heater is blowing cold air. Nissan couldn't get the air out, so i had the car towed to Jotech. I am not taking any chances driving it over 210 F.

 

It could be the thermostat bro...Mine had symptoms just like this and then one morning the thermostat completely failed and after 15 minutes of just low throttle driving it would go to the top of the gauge. I changed out the thermo and that fixed it till the next thermo failed. I now run with no thermo and have not had an issue since.

 

Smart move, t32gzz an all aluminum engine cannot take even one extreme overheat cycle. I'm with Sharif on this one, if it gets over half way on the temp guage you should shut the car down and let it cool.

 

So did you gut out the thermo? how does it act when it is cold out side?

 

Well it doenst get very cold out here but when it gets "cooler" the car just takes a little longer to warm up then it used to. Besides that the only difference I have seen is my water temp is about 15 degrees colder during normal cruising.

 

Mia, did you take it out completely or just gut it?? I may go this route.