Level 5 axles
06-19-2007 | 07:54 AM
#21
i agre on the technique.... but until most have that sorted out...and if able to affort it... might as well sort out the axel problem =]
can u provide with info on some of the most important revisons plz...when u get a chance
can u provide with info on some of the most important revisons plz...when u get a chance
06-19-2007 | 08:38 AM
#22
Id rather break 10 stock axles and replace (and it would be cheaper!) then waste $$$ on DSS axles which will break-I was there when Brent snapped his, until I see some proven drag racer abuse these they arent worth the $$$ to me, because they arent proven.
06-19-2007 | 08:48 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Alberto
Id rather break 10 stock axles and replace (and it would be cheaper!) then waste $$$ on DSS axles which will break-I was there when Brent snapped his, until I see some proven drag racer abuse these they arent worth the $$$ to me, because they arent proven.
06-19-2007 | 11:48 AM
#25
Swaping axles at the track would be hard for me since the wheels, diffuser and some other misc stuff would all have to come off and I cant get a jack under the car without wide ramps, etc.
06-19-2007 | 12:57 PM
#30
Originally Posted by BamBam
Alright guys, here is the skinny.
I blew apart the inner CV on the drivers side (left axle). It actually blew into about 10 pieces and tore up some of the splines on the axle itself. We are looking into whether o r not the axle needs to be replaced under the 1 year warranty. I have spoken to some guys at DriveshaftShop and while they say this setup has been proven on a # of 700 – 800 whp racing cars, all of the test platforms have been true race cars, IE lightened, with the average weight around 2500lbs and quite a few under 2,000 lbs. I am not sure if anyone has tested a high HP ‘Street’ car with DR’s slicks on a hot day.
As it sits now, not only does no one make an upgraded inner CV joint, but to replace the inner CV with another stock one, looks to require buying a new rear and pulling the CV joints. The thought now is to weld the axle to the inner CV therefore seriously reducing the chances it will implode from driveline shock.
I am awaiting a call back from Frank at DSS and hearing back from AAM on sourcing a new inner CV joint.
I hope to have some pictures soon to better explain the damages.
NOTE:
I want to make sure everyone understands under NORMAL use, there is nothing wrong with these axles. The Axles and the outer CV joint are heavily reinforced from DriveshaftShop. These are warranted for any damage and none of these parts have failed. The issue is with the inner CV, and as of right now no one makes an upgraded part for this. I have a strong suspicion the reason mine broke is due to the weight of my car (almost 3,800 lbs), the heat (85+ that day and almost 100 on the track at that time), and most importantly I was trying a new launching method for the DR’s and I can only guess I must have at least partially dumped the clutch.
I blew apart the inner CV on the drivers side (left axle). It actually blew into about 10 pieces and tore up some of the splines on the axle itself. We are looking into whether o r not the axle needs to be replaced under the 1 year warranty. I have spoken to some guys at DriveshaftShop and while they say this setup has been proven on a # of 700 – 800 whp racing cars, all of the test platforms have been true race cars, IE lightened, with the average weight around 2500lbs and quite a few under 2,000 lbs. I am not sure if anyone has tested a high HP ‘Street’ car with DR’s slicks on a hot day.
As it sits now, not only does no one make an upgraded inner CV joint, but to replace the inner CV with another stock one, looks to require buying a new rear and pulling the CV joints. The thought now is to weld the axle to the inner CV therefore seriously reducing the chances it will implode from driveline shock.
I am awaiting a call back from Frank at DSS and hearing back from AAM on sourcing a new inner CV joint.
I hope to have some pictures soon to better explain the damages.
NOTE:
I want to make sure everyone understands under NORMAL use, there is nothing wrong with these axles. The Axles and the outer CV joint are heavily reinforced from DriveshaftShop. These are warranted for any damage and none of these parts have failed. The issue is with the inner CV, and as of right now no one makes an upgraded part for this. I have a strong suspicion the reason mine broke is due to the weight of my car (almost 3,800 lbs), the heat (85+ that day and almost 100 on the track at that time), and most importantly I was trying a new launching method for the DR’s and I can only guess I must have at least partially dumped the clutch.
06-19-2007 | 01:38 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Alberto
I plan on taking spare stockers to the track. If they break, quick swap and your good to go. $100 replacements > Level 5 bung rapage
06-19-2007 | 01:51 PM
#33
Originally Posted by BamBam
Alright guys, here is the skinny.
I blew apart the inner CV on the drivers side (left axle). It actually blew into about 10 pieces and tore up some of the splines on the axle itself. We are looking into whether o r not the axle needs to be replaced under the 1 year warranty. I have spoken to some guys at DriveshaftShop and while they say this setup has been proven on a # of 700 – 800 whp racing cars, all of the test platforms have been true race cars, IE lightened, with the average weight around 2500lbs and quite a few under 2,000 lbs. I am not sure if anyone has tested a high HP ‘Street’ car with DR’s slicks on a hot day.
As it sits now, not only does no one make an upgraded inner CV joint, but to replace the inner CV with another stock one, looks to require buying a new rear and pulling the CV joints. The thought now is to weld the axle to the inner CV therefore seriously reducing the chances it will implode from driveline shock.
I am awaiting a call back from Frank at DSS and hearing back from AAM on sourcing a new inner CV joint.
I hope to have some pictures soon to better explain the damages.
NOTE:
I want to make sure everyone understands under NORMAL use, there is nothing wrong with these axles. The Axles and the outer CV joint are heavily reinforced from DriveshaftShop. These are warranted for any damage and none of these parts have failed. The issue is with the inner CV, and as of right now no one makes an upgraded part for this. I have a strong suspicion the reason mine broke is due to the weight of my car (almost 3,800 lbs), the heat (85+ that day and almost 100 on the track at that time), and most importantly I was trying a new launching method for the DR’s and I can only guess I must have at least partially dumped the clutch.
I blew apart the inner CV on the drivers side (left axle). It actually blew into about 10 pieces and tore up some of the splines on the axle itself. We are looking into whether o r not the axle needs to be replaced under the 1 year warranty. I have spoken to some guys at DriveshaftShop and while they say this setup has been proven on a # of 700 – 800 whp racing cars, all of the test platforms have been true race cars, IE lightened, with the average weight around 2500lbs and quite a few under 2,000 lbs. I am not sure if anyone has tested a high HP ‘Street’ car with DR’s slicks on a hot day.
As it sits now, not only does no one make an upgraded inner CV joint, but to replace the inner CV with another stock one, looks to require buying a new rear and pulling the CV joints. The thought now is to weld the axle to the inner CV therefore seriously reducing the chances it will implode from driveline shock.
I am awaiting a call back from Frank at DSS and hearing back from AAM on sourcing a new inner CV joint.
I hope to have some pictures soon to better explain the damages.
NOTE:
I want to make sure everyone understands under NORMAL use, there is nothing wrong with these axles. The Axles and the outer CV joint are heavily reinforced from DriveshaftShop. These are warranted for any damage and none of these parts have failed. The issue is with the inner CV, and as of right now no one makes an upgraded part for this. I have a strong suspicion the reason mine broke is due to the weight of my car (almost 3,800 lbs), the heat (85+ that day and almost 100 on the track at that time), and most importantly I was trying a new launching method for the DR’s and I can only guess I must have at least partially dumped the clutch.
06-19-2007 | 03:53 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Cannysage
I've read about the same problem with the lev. 2 as well as 5. dunno what you can do with the weakazz inner cv joint. having stronger axle isn't too assuring.
06-19-2007 | 03:55 PM
#35
Originally Posted by meatbag
Someone told me they were going to offer a stronger inner CV since people were blowing them apart at less power then they are supposed to be good for. Ive emailed them about it but never heard back.
06-20-2007 | 05:02 AM
#36
Originally Posted by wtf no turbo
Where you getting a stock axle for a 100 bucks? When the body shop quoted my insurance on replacement of stocks they were like 500 bucks a piece so I went ahead and got lvl2s from the DSS for 200 bucks less.
06-20-2007 | 10:11 AM
#37
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From: EveryWhere & yet... NoWhere
FYI... I am pretty sure their new level 5 axels now include a new inner CV joint. BUT I did just check their website and basicly the 350Z stuff, you have to call them to order.
As to why I snapped mine: inexpereince, a new launching technique, and using dragradials with 500whp.
As to why I snapped mine: inexpereince, a new launching technique, and using dragradials with 500whp.
06-20-2007 | 10:20 AM
#39
Originally Posted by Alberto
Using DR's with 500whp doesnt = snap
hey btw.,..just a lil OT..whats yrou best time with your new setup? I know your time with the TN setup
06-20-2007 | 10:21 AM
#40
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From: EveryWhere & yet... NoWhere
As I said, it was a combination of all of those factors... if I had not tried to 'drop the clutch' at 5,000 RPMS (even with preloading) on those new dragradials, this would not have happened. But combining all of those factors lead to too much for the inner CV joint.