I just got a big raise at work an being as grown-up and mature as I am, I decided to switch my plans from ST to TT and possibly do something that few have done by now. Furniture for my new condo? Who cares!!! Lets spend the $ on what's REALLY important.
An SFR distributor opened up 2 hrs away from me. After speaking to them I have come up with a plan. SFR tuner kit, AAM fuel return systems, RC 650cc injectors and TXS UTEC all tuned to 9-9.5 PSI. Should make good power on stock motor, and in 12-18 month I can just upgrade the internals and just up the boost for more power.
Anyway, what did I miss in this idea and is it worth to spend an extra grand to get ball bearing turbos? Are they higher or lower maintainance as opposed to the standard bearting units? What about heat, which makes more?

Thanks.

 

Uhm, why not just go with something proven and reliable like the APS TT ?

You're gonna be spending buckets fixing up stuff with an unproven kit.

And yes, you should obviously invest in the best turbos you can get.

 

+1

 

I agree that APS is the most reliable and comprehensive turn-key turbo kit on the market.
However, is my choice of parts THAT unproven? SFR uses Turbonetics turbos. No more should be said in regards to their quality. Same goes for the BOV (TN godzilla). The exhaust manifolds are equal length, which means better flow then log-style cast units. They are made of 321SS and come with a lifetime warranty. Their parts list seems to be impressive enough. I was not too excited about the Split-Second, though, so hence my choice for fuel system and EM. Let's look at that.
APS includes a great fuel system in the package. But it not a full fuel return system and has nothing on the AAM setup. RC injectors are good as well, seems to be the choice for Sharif, and his choices can be taken almost as a gospel. BTW, their 650cc, according to the guys at MRC (who will be doing the work), can still idle at 14:1 AFR. UTEC is new, but I am confident in it.

In other words, this setup should yield a 600-650whp potential and the only thing that I will need in future (at first I will stay within stock motors limit) would be to simply throw in a forged motor and retune. Whether I will be able to handle it is another story, but time will tell. You will not be able to do that on APS that easily. You'll need new actuators, injectors, etc...

Anyway as to the "unproven kit" part, every proven kit was unproven until it became proven (...or something). And yes, I will be spending buckets on this setup. I guess it would feel good to do something that few others have done. That is assuming that this combo works out. I mean, why even bother buying a 28-32K car and spend another 8-9K on the FI kit, why not just go to a Chevy dealership and get a good deal on the C6. I guess it's just the whole pleasure of driving something that you have dreamed up and built or had built for you, not a just another cookie cutter car.

Oh, I got the estimate on everything. A grand more, grand less does not change much at this point, so looks like I will go for ball bearing units. Now I must get back to work to earn more $ for the car.

 

 

I wouldn't want SS manifolds on my TT setup. cast all the way. SS doesn't stand up to heat all that well, prone to cracking. Not worth the potential headache

 

PE, PE, PE...
What have you done to there fragile young minds.....

The Evo crowd have been using these forever and they had no issues. And there is a lifetime warranty on the ones that are made from the 321SS.

 

So what do you think of my choice?

 

Thats funny,every single Drift,drag car I have seen has tubular SS manifolds on their set ups.Not to mention that SS tubular headers have been around since the 1950's so they must work much better than cast manifolds. SS tubular manifolds have a long track history and have been proven time and time again.The FEW reported cases of the SS manifolds cracking were on the PE kits.The PE kits IMHO are flat out garbage and always will be.This is why you only see 2 or 3 of them on the forums.

 

I could careless about a lifetime warranty. Does the warranty include the labor costs to replace them, or the downtime? I am not saying they will crack, just that I wouldn't want them on my car. I know evos and what not run SS manifolds all the time. You can pull a manifold off an inline 4 in like an hour. Not quite as easy on a TT setup on a Z.

After seeing APS quality first hand, I honestly believe that there isn't a company that has near the quality of products. APS as a company on the other hand needs, to get off their high horse and learn some lessons on customer service.

 

Seems the APS TT kit is having about the same % of people having problems with the kit as other kits....if not a higher % rate

 

In terms of what? smoking turbo?

I had a smoking turbo and through a chain of events had it remedied. Now that it is resolved I think I can say with a bit of certainty, that it was NOT and issue with the kit's design, nor was an install related issue. I cannot say that my situation is similar to any others that had issues with the APS kit. I can say that those posting on the forums with issues are not necessarily as informed as they would lead you to believe about what's 'wrong' with their car.

I am just posting my opinion. You are welcome to run any kit you choose. I put my money in a product that I felt was the best.

 

Man, relax, I am not criticizing anything made by APS and I know that APS cast manifolds are the best cast manifolds you can get, but they are still cast manifolds. Tubular manifolds made from TIG welded high grade stainless steel will stand up to the abuse well, especially on a street car, (not some constantly high-revving road racer or a drifter, although they get away with them too...) And having lequal length is beneficial to the spool up time. They do heat up quicker then cast ones, but they also cool down quicker. They weight less and the allow for the turbos to be mounted lower. Once again, I by no means am bashing anything from APS, maybe except for their attitude.
Lets take a step back, take a breath and try not to turn this thread into a SFR vs APS debate. I have not intended that to be the purpose of it.

 

Fair enough. I know lots of people running SS manifolds without issue. I just wouldn't want them on my car if I have the option of a kit with cast manifolds.

I know there is a PE kit here that had a manifold crack and I know of other cases of N/A SS manifiolds cracking. I do agree that PE = garbage

 

My intention is not to debate SFR vs APS. I don't think you are bashing APS - and I do agree...I think it is fair to say that everyone knows APS has a bit of an attitude

 

I was just stating ..that the APS has its problems too . Just like all the other kits , be it a SC , ST or TT . I like to see new kits come to the market . It gives us all more choices . And ..YES...a smoking problem is just that...A PROBLEM....Im glad you got it sorted out

 

With that said, any time you introduce boost to a car that come from the factory N/A, you should expect issues regardless of how great the kit is.

 

Some kits just have issues, some have whole subscriptions...

 

Anyway, considering the $ this is going to require, there is at least 5-6 month until I start it, who knows what will come out during that time...

 

A water cooled ball bearing turbo would be worth the extra investment..... Water cooled/oil lubricated by design will add to longevity of the turbo, due to reduced operating temperatures.

Nothing wrong with oil cooled, but you will have to strickly adhere to cool down periods(prevent oil coking) and oil change out schedules.