Heater not working.......
I have the Stillen Stage III intercooled S/C and now since it's getting cold outside, I noticed my heater isn't working. The heater core isn't leaking and my car runs at the same temp it always has. Any suggestions?
Originally Posted by BLN350Z
I have the Stillen Stage III intercooled S/C and now since it's getting cold outside, I noticed my heater isn't working. The heater core isn't leaking and my car runs at the same temp it always has. Any suggestions?
I have the same problem, my heater only works when I rev it passed 3k.
We bled the system 3 times with only a slight improvement, I had installed a new Nismo thermostat last year, I dont think I need a new one.
I have to wait till spring time to solve this, car is stored now
We bled the system 3 times with only a slight improvement, I had installed a new Nismo thermostat last year, I dont think I need a new one.
I have to wait till spring time to solve this, car is stored now
I just got rid of this issue. You need to add a little coolant. Or,like mentioned above, bleed the lines a few more times. When your car is warmed, after a drive, feel all your coolant lines. If there is a section that is cool or cold, there is an air bubble.
I guess everyone is having this issue. Mine had the issue and my tuner opened the Radiator cap and reservoir cap and added to the radiator until it gets full pushing some air out. That worked but i do notice the additional time it takes for the heat to come out.
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Definately air in the system. the VQ35 cooling system is notoriously dificult to purge of air bubbles. It can take a few sessions to get it totally purged. If you arent up to doing this job yourself, take it to a good mechanic and ask them to purge and fill the system. They will use a device to apply vaccum to the system, and then the water will find its way....no bubbles.
i defineatly agree, air trapped in the heater core. i just went through this last weekend and had a b itch of a time purging the system. i'm talking about 1.5 hours. put pressure on the system, ran till hot let cool down, drilled a little bypass hole in the thermostat (cause i couldn't get it to open) and alot of swearing and disbelief. i have never seen a system so hard to get the air out of. didn't have a single prob filling when the motor got redone, but if you change a thermostat or undo that single area to drain, it seems to leave a bad air pocket.
Originally Posted by BLN350Z
Where exactly is the Thermostat and how do I put pressure on the system?
Also is it an absolute necessisity to drill a hole in the thermostat?
Also is it an absolute necessisity to drill a hole in the thermostat?
really if you are to the point where the heater will get hot on light revving you are pretty close. try having a friend rev the motor when cold and try putting more water in during 3000rpm rev.
Originally Posted by BLN350Z
Where exactly is the Thermostat and how do I put pressure on the system?
Also is it an absolute necessisity to drill a hole in the thermostat?
Also is it an absolute necessisity to drill a hole in the thermostat?
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
I seriously suggest trying the conventional bleeding first or as Sharif suggested bring it to a dealer to have them use their tool on it before you start destryoing you thermostat
my buddy (mechanic since he was 6 yrs. old) taught me a slightly messy, but very effective trick when we did my APSTT install. Instead of slowly pouring the antifreeze mixture into the radiator, disconnct the rear RHS coolant line. Pull the line up so you can fill it, fill until it starts to reach the top of the radiator, the reattach. You may spill a little when reattatching, but being that hose is the highest point, it will fill your entire system and reduce air bubbles by a ton. We did this after we filled the system thru the radiator and got the engine warm. The lines had major pockets of air, and this resolved it the first time we did it.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.



