Gauge orientation: Autometer A-pillar pod
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Gauge orientation: Autometer A-pillar pod
I got all my gauges ready as my TN kit is in the mail. Also, I got the Autometer A-pillar pod that holds 3 gauges, part number 22809... or something like that haha.
Does this pop in? I tried test-fiting it but i couldnt really orient the pod to pop in. It almost seemed like I had to remove the dash by the "Z vent" by the door/pillar.
I wanted to check before I break the A-pillar pod, lol.
BTW, I got the boost gauge, water temperture, and the oil temperture gauge. I am a baller on a budget and quite could not dish out the $$$ for the wideband a/f. lol.
Does this pop in? I tried test-fiting it but i couldnt really orient the pod to pop in. It almost seemed like I had to remove the dash by the "Z vent" by the door/pillar.
I wanted to check before I break the A-pillar pod, lol.
BTW, I got the boost gauge, water temperture, and the oil temperture gauge. I am a baller on a budget and quite could not dish out the $$$ for the wideband a/f. lol.
#4
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Originally Posted by Tekwon-V
I got all my gauges ready as my TN kit is in the mail. Also, I got the Autometer A-pillar pod that holds 3 gauges, part number 22809... or something like that haha.
Does this pop in? I tried test-fiting it but i couldnt really orient the pod to pop in. It almost seemed like I had to remove the dash by the "Z vent" by the door/pillar.
I wanted to check before I break the A-pillar pod, lol.
BTW, I got the boost gauge, water temperture, and the oil temperture gauge. I am a baller on a budget and quite could not dish out the $$$ for the wideband a/f. lol.
Does this pop in? I tried test-fiting it but i couldnt really orient the pod to pop in. It almost seemed like I had to remove the dash by the "Z vent" by the door/pillar.
I wanted to check before I break the A-pillar pod, lol.
BTW, I got the boost gauge, water temperture, and the oil temperture gauge. I am a baller on a budget and quite could not dish out the $$$ for the wideband a/f. lol.
The pillar needs to be mounted to the stock A-pillar. You need to remove the stock one and drill holes for the push pins that were supplied with the autometer pillar pod. there should be instructions that came with it.
Also, you should have skipped all the other gauges in favor of a wideband, especially on a TN kit. If you had a custom tune, you could get buy without one. But because TN uses a cookie cutter reflash you could be running a lean AFR and you wouldn't even know about it until it's too late.
Just look at all the recent posts about lean AFRs with that kit.
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hmm, so it's a replacement, rather than an overlay-style. MIA, is yours an autometer one too?
haha yea. i am hoping the ecu reflash would 'work out' for me as i will have no other modification than the kit itself. i am just keeping my fingers crossed. from what i've read, people with additional modification (in addition to the kit) are having most problems with it.
i am going to have the car on the dyno soon after the install to make sure everything is ok before i get jiggy with it. at that time, if necessary, i will get a custom tune, along with additional parts such as wideband a/f. i have posted a thread about this issue too.
haha yea. i am hoping the ecu reflash would 'work out' for me as i will have no other modification than the kit itself. i am just keeping my fingers crossed. from what i've read, people with additional modification (in addition to the kit) are having most problems with it.
i am going to have the car on the dyno soon after the install to make sure everything is ok before i get jiggy with it. at that time, if necessary, i will get a custom tune, along with additional parts such as wideband a/f. i have posted a thread about this issue too.
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#9
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There is NO NEED to remove the stock Apillar. The Autometer Apillar just slides over the Stock one and it isn't very hard to do. I don't even use the push pins supplied with mine as it is a tight and Factory looking fit without them!
#10
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Originally Posted by BLN350Z
There is NO NEED to remove the stock Apillar. The Autometer Apillar just slides over the Stock one and it isn't very hard to do. I don't even use the push pins supplied with mine as it is a tight and Factory looking fit without them!
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If you check the AFR post install and its good (in the piping not the tailpipe) as long as you dont bolt on a basically staright pipe exhaust or install cams you should be fine. I'd rather have a cookie cutter flash that works for 95% of the customers then a James Bond smoke screen.
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Im looking for a 3-gauge pod, a-pillar. But i want dont want to slide over the Stock one. I thought i saw somewere that there is a direct replacement ver. Can someone help me out? plus a web link to order too.
Thanks
Thanks
#19
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the autometer one is still a very clean install, and it covers so much of the factory pillar, you can bairily tell it is laying over it. now i have a question, how the heck are you guys running the wiring to the gauges if you are not pulling off the stock pillar?
the install will be much better if you pull the stock pillar, it is simple (just pull on it) and drill the holes to mount the pillar and do your wiring in one shot.
the install will be much better if you pull the stock pillar, it is simple (just pull on it) and drill the holes to mount the pillar and do your wiring in one shot.