Weak Link - Head Gasket
My motor is sleeved, so that doesn't cure the problem - it may have helped, but it's not good enough.
I'm going to be experimenting with different head gaskets - it's just such a pain in the **** to change the gasket!
I'm going to be experimenting with different head gaskets - it's just such a pain in the **** to change the gasket!
Originally Posted by Philthy
My motor is sleeved, so that doesn't cure the problem - it may have helped, but it's not good enough.
I'm going to be experimenting with different head gaskets - it's just such a pain in the **** to change the gasket!
I'm going to be experimenting with different head gaskets - it's just such a pain in the **** to change the gasket!
Originally Posted by BlackTuner
Has anyone thought about having the bolt holes being drilled and tapped to accept thicker rod bolts?
Jermaine~
Jermaine~
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Performance Motorsports uses oversize ARP head studs, which, IIRC are 9/16 in diameter. Certainly doable, but still doesnt answer the question if the ARP hardware is backing out.
Originally Posted by g356gear
May have to go to a locking type of stud/nut to keep things from backing out.
Ideally, ARP recommends retrqing the heads, but we all know that's not feasible, because the cams have to removed to access the nuts.
.20 over bore - nothing big and this isn't the problem... this has occurred to every car, liners, sleeves, stock.
The latest theory is the block and heads, although are both aluminum, may be different types and their heating/cooling properties maybe different… A thicker head gasket would probably help if this is the true.
The latest theory is the block and heads, although are both aluminum, may be different types and their heating/cooling properties maybe different… A thicker head gasket would probably help if this is the true.
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