ok , you guys gave me a good idea about a long or short block but do you think it would be smart to do this first then in like another year put the turbo kit on. i wont have the money to do it all at once but if i want to turbocharge my car i want to come out with tons of power. what kind of block do you guys recommend? do you think this is a good idea and how would this work as a daily driver.

Upgraded Shortblock: $3600 + $1000 core - Good up to 750 Rwhp


Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/*ceramic coating
*Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
*CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)

 

I would turbo your car first and keep it close to 400rwhp and then build later. I don't think you want to run around nonturbo with 8.5:1 compression. Consider doing just the rod bolts for now with the turbo kit since it seems the rod bolts are the weakest link. If you got a little more cash, do the short block for now (extra $4K) and you can tune to 500rwhp and you can do the heads later without too much labor because they won't have to pull your motor out again. Figure $14K for the kit and install. If you can come up with $3700 more, do the short block as well.

 

true, im just thinking of my possibilities befor i jump into a big decision. your probley right. or i could get it for high compression and spray the **** out of it , that would be fun lol

 

what do you mean do the rod bolt , is that how everyone is blowing their motors. that means they have to pull my motor

 

That is also a very good idea. Go forged on high compression and keep the stock characteristics of the car, but then have a little surprise in the boot, in the shape of two shiny 15lb nitrous express bottles. I like it!
Cruisin down the road...., hit the little red button and ... whoe your daddy!!!

 

LOL

 

well im on the bottle now, i like the feeling but how much faster would that make me . would i put out a lot more power. im on a 100 shot now guessing around 340 hp maybe. has any one done this?

 

The rod bolts tend to break and then you get bent rods. I personally think (opinion now, not full fact) that the rod bolts are causing the most problems aside from a bad tune. The motor is going to get pulled out anyhow for the turbo install and I believe the rod bolts can be replaced without having to totally dismantle the motor. As for the high compression with N2O, even the F-body guys run low compression and retarded timing when they do the big shots (200-300). I wouldn't recommend the high compression setup unless you intend to stay all-motor.

 

Take the car to have it dynoed. Then depending on what you go for internally (quality wise) set up a direct port nitrous kit to give you about 500 at the wheels. You might want to do this as a two stage, just for traction purposes.

 

Talk about stress on a stock motor. You want him to put a 300 shot on his stock motor?

 

you saw that vid of that z with a 300 shot at the track, that thing was sick. But then it blew up

 

I haven't seen it. I'll have to do a search here pretty soon it looks like.

 

no,no,no, i said to do the full forged internals with stock compression, and then spay the **** out of it.

Stock, would probably go pop, when you hit the little self destruct button

 

My $.02 go Turbo first, do it right, then build the motor & up the boost. Greddy TT kit done right, can get you between 350 -> 425+ whp, and this is stable reliable power on a stock motor.
Then in a year, drop in a built motor and pump the boost to 15 - 20+ psi... Then you got plenty of power..

 

If you are on a budget get eagle rods ( $520 ) and ARP main rod bolts (around 200) plus labor... 700? and you will be safe for up to 500whp