Power source for Methanol Injection Pump
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From: Studio City, CA
Power source for Methanol Injection Pump
What is a good Fuse location to splice the Pump in?
It needs a 15 Amp Ignition controlled terminal, preferably in the engine bay
It needs a 15 Amp Ignition controlled terminal, preferably in the engine bay
The best thing to use would be at the battery and then find ignition source(best location is behind the stock battery) and use a relay to send battery power. Of course put a fuse inline to the battery. A standard bosch relay will work fine. It's never advisable to use a stock ignition(acc) line and then uprate the fuse in the box. You could always to that but it's not the best idea.
In case you don't feel like searching. Here is a basic how to on what does what on the relay.
Here is a basic "Bosch" relay and circuit diagram. These relays are about 1" square,
are generally black plastic and sometimes have a mounting tab on them. They are all numbered identically with the exception of pin 87A. Some do not have pin 87A. These relays cost no extra to have that pin so don't worry about that part. If you don't need that pin, you simply do not use it. See the schematics below to determine if your circuit will require that pin for your application.
Relay Diagram Bottom View
Use a 1N4000 series diode (available at Radio Shack and other electronics stores) as a drain for static electricity that builds up from deactivating the coil. The band side always points toward the side of the coil that has positive power.
These relays are made by several companies and they are by far not the only available relays, but they are the most commonly used and most readily available relays out there. Average cost for these is about $2.00. They are rated at 30 amps, but they are really good up to 40 amps. That's for Bosch only, the other companies that supply these may differ.
Pin connections are as follows:
Pins 85 and 86 are your control inputs. This is where the magic happens. Applying 12 volts to one side and ground to the other will cause the coil to energize and the relay to activate (actually, these relays will activate with as little as 8 volts, but that's another story for a much more detailed discussion). Polarity is not important here and you can put your switch either in the power side or the ground side, depending on what you're doing. Generally though, you usually apply power to pin 85 and ground to pin 86, but this is not really important (you can reverse the polarity on these 2 pins without any problems, just remember to point your diode band to whichever side has the positive lead going to it. The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device).
Pin 30 is usually your high current input, either directly from the battery (fused, of course) or from an ignition or accessory circuit output from your ignition switch (also fused). In some cases, pin 30 is used for output instead of input, but we won't discuss that here since it doesn't apply to basic wiring.
Pin 87 is for 12 volt power to the device you want powered up when the relay is activated by the coil being energized (when you press the horn button, for example).
Pin 87A is only used if you need power to flow through the contacts when the relay is NOT powered up (such as a starter kill in an alarm harness) or if you are diverting power from one place to another by activating the coil (for example, if you are using the relay as a headlight dimmer switch). This is explained in the schematics below. Note that in the following diagrams, a fuse is not shown,
The main input (usually going to pin 30) must be fused
with the proper sized fuse for the accessory being connected.
The general rule of thumb is 10% higher than the load limit.
For example, if your accessory says it uses 20 amps,
the smallest fuse that will safely run the device at full power is 22 amps so
a 25 amp fuse would be your choice.
Do not use a higher numbered fuse than is recommended.
For example, don't use a 30 amp fuse when a 25 amp fuse
is all you need.
In case you don't feel like searching. Here is a basic how to on what does what on the relay.
Here is a basic "Bosch" relay and circuit diagram. These relays are about 1" square,
are generally black plastic and sometimes have a mounting tab on them. They are all numbered identically with the exception of pin 87A. Some do not have pin 87A. These relays cost no extra to have that pin so don't worry about that part. If you don't need that pin, you simply do not use it. See the schematics below to determine if your circuit will require that pin for your application.
Relay Diagram Bottom View
Use a 1N4000 series diode (available at Radio Shack and other electronics stores) as a drain for static electricity that builds up from deactivating the coil. The band side always points toward the side of the coil that has positive power.
These relays are made by several companies and they are by far not the only available relays, but they are the most commonly used and most readily available relays out there. Average cost for these is about $2.00. They are rated at 30 amps, but they are really good up to 40 amps. That's for Bosch only, the other companies that supply these may differ.
Pin connections are as follows:
Pins 85 and 86 are your control inputs. This is where the magic happens. Applying 12 volts to one side and ground to the other will cause the coil to energize and the relay to activate (actually, these relays will activate with as little as 8 volts, but that's another story for a much more detailed discussion). Polarity is not important here and you can put your switch either in the power side or the ground side, depending on what you're doing. Generally though, you usually apply power to pin 85 and ground to pin 86, but this is not really important (you can reverse the polarity on these 2 pins without any problems, just remember to point your diode band to whichever side has the positive lead going to it. The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device).
Pin 30 is usually your high current input, either directly from the battery (fused, of course) or from an ignition or accessory circuit output from your ignition switch (also fused). In some cases, pin 30 is used for output instead of input, but we won't discuss that here since it doesn't apply to basic wiring.
Pin 87 is for 12 volt power to the device you want powered up when the relay is activated by the coil being energized (when you press the horn button, for example).
Pin 87A is only used if you need power to flow through the contacts when the relay is NOT powered up (such as a starter kill in an alarm harness) or if you are diverting power from one place to another by activating the coil (for example, if you are using the relay as a headlight dimmer switch). This is explained in the schematics below. Note that in the following diagrams, a fuse is not shown,
The main input (usually going to pin 30) must be fused
with the proper sized fuse for the accessory being connected.
The general rule of thumb is 10% higher than the load limit.
For example, if your accessory says it uses 20 amps,
the smallest fuse that will safely run the device at full power is 22 amps so
a 25 amp fuse would be your choice.
Do not use a higher numbered fuse than is recommended.
For example, don't use a 30 amp fuse when a 25 amp fuse
is all you need.
Last edited by theking; Jan 27, 2006 at 03:18 PM.
Yep, my relay is mounted in the battery compartment with the 12v wire/fuse connected directly to the battery. Makes it so you only have to run 1 wire into the car to the back where the pump and tank are mounted.
Thread Starter
Registered User
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From: Studio City, CA
Originally Posted by theking
The best thing to use would be at the battery and then find ignition source(best location is behind the stock battery) and use a relay to send battery power. Of course put a fuse inline to the battery. A standard bosch relay will work fine. It's never advisable to use a stock ignition(acc) line and then uprate the fuse in the box. You could always to that but it's not the best idea.
In case you don't feel like searching. Here is a basic how to on what does what on the relay.
Here is a basic "Bosch" relay and circuit diagram. These relays are about 1" square,
are generally black plastic and sometimes have a mounting tab on them. They are all numbered identically with the exception of pin 87A. Some do not have pin 87A. These relays cost no extra to have that pin so don't worry about that part. If you don't need that pin, you simply do not use it. See the schematics below to determine if your circuit will require that pin for your application.
Relay Diagram Bottom View
Use a 1N4000 series diode (available at Radio Shack and other electronics stores) as a drain for static electricity that builds up from deactivating the coil. The band side always points toward the side of the coil that has positive power.
These relays are made by several companies and they are by far not the only available relays, but they are the most commonly used and most readily available relays out there. Average cost for these is about $2.00. They are rated at 30 amps, but they are really good up to 40 amps. That's for Bosch only, the other companies that supply these may differ.
Pin connections are as follows:
Pins 85 and 86 are your control inputs. This is where the magic happens. Applying 12 volts to one side and ground to the other will cause the coil to energize and the relay to activate (actually, these relays will activate with as little as 8 volts, but that's another story for a much more detailed discussion). Polarity is not important here and you can put your switch either in the power side or the ground side, depending on what you're doing. Generally though, you usually apply power to pin 85 and ground to pin 86, but this is not really important (you can reverse the polarity on these 2 pins without any problems, just remember to point your diode band to whichever side has the positive lead going to it. The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device).
Pin 30 is usually your high current input, either directly from the battery (fused, of course) or from an ignition or accessory circuit output from your ignition switch (also fused). In some cases, pin 30 is used for output instead of input, but we won't discuss that here since it doesn't apply to basic wiring.
Pin 87 is for 12 volt power to the device you want powered up when the relay is activated by the coil being energized (when you press the horn button, for example).
Pin 87A is only used if you need power to flow through the contacts when the relay is NOT powered up (such as a starter kill in an alarm harness) or if you are diverting power from one place to another by activating the coil (for example, if you are using the relay as a headlight dimmer switch). This is explained in the schematics below. Note that in the following diagrams, a fuse is not shown,
The main input (usually going to pin 30) must be fused
with the proper sized fuse for the accessory being connected.
The general rule of thumb is 10% higher than the load limit.
For example, if your accessory says it uses 20 amps,
the smallest fuse that will safely run the device at full power is 22 amps so
a 25 amp fuse would be your choice.
Do not use a higher numbered fuse than is recommended.
For example, don't use a 30 amp fuse when a 25 amp fuse
is all you need.
In case you don't feel like searching. Here is a basic how to on what does what on the relay.
Here is a basic "Bosch" relay and circuit diagram. These relays are about 1" square,
are generally black plastic and sometimes have a mounting tab on them. They are all numbered identically with the exception of pin 87A. Some do not have pin 87A. These relays cost no extra to have that pin so don't worry about that part. If you don't need that pin, you simply do not use it. See the schematics below to determine if your circuit will require that pin for your application.
Relay Diagram Bottom View
Use a 1N4000 series diode (available at Radio Shack and other electronics stores) as a drain for static electricity that builds up from deactivating the coil. The band side always points toward the side of the coil that has positive power.
These relays are made by several companies and they are by far not the only available relays, but they are the most commonly used and most readily available relays out there. Average cost for these is about $2.00. They are rated at 30 amps, but they are really good up to 40 amps. That's for Bosch only, the other companies that supply these may differ.
Pin connections are as follows:
Pins 85 and 86 are your control inputs. This is where the magic happens. Applying 12 volts to one side and ground to the other will cause the coil to energize and the relay to activate (actually, these relays will activate with as little as 8 volts, but that's another story for a much more detailed discussion). Polarity is not important here and you can put your switch either in the power side or the ground side, depending on what you're doing. Generally though, you usually apply power to pin 85 and ground to pin 86, but this is not really important (you can reverse the polarity on these 2 pins without any problems, just remember to point your diode band to whichever side has the positive lead going to it. The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device).
Pin 30 is usually your high current input, either directly from the battery (fused, of course) or from an ignition or accessory circuit output from your ignition switch (also fused). In some cases, pin 30 is used for output instead of input, but we won't discuss that here since it doesn't apply to basic wiring.
Pin 87 is for 12 volt power to the device you want powered up when the relay is activated by the coil being energized (when you press the horn button, for example).
Pin 87A is only used if you need power to flow through the contacts when the relay is NOT powered up (such as a starter kill in an alarm harness) or if you are diverting power from one place to another by activating the coil (for example, if you are using the relay as a headlight dimmer switch). This is explained in the schematics below. Note that in the following diagrams, a fuse is not shown,
The main input (usually going to pin 30) must be fused
with the proper sized fuse for the accessory being connected.
The general rule of thumb is 10% higher than the load limit.
For example, if your accessory says it uses 20 amps,
the smallest fuse that will safely run the device at full power is 22 amps so
a 25 amp fuse would be your choice.
Do not use a higher numbered fuse than is recommended.
For example, don't use a 30 amp fuse when a 25 amp fuse
is all you need.
I am familiar with these relays back from my nitrous days.
Unfortunately due to my crash this weekend I didn't feel like installing anything.
The relay is a good idea though, I'm going to go that route when I'm going to install the kit
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