Hey guys,

As soon as all of my parts get in, I am having my motor pulled and sent off to a machine shop.

I understand that any information provided are ball park figures and I am just looking for rough estimates on what to expect cost wise?

I am having it bored .02 to accomidate higher compression 96 mm / 3.780 pistons. I know other things need to happen such as balancing and matching pistons and this is where I am looking for your input to what needs to be done and rough cost?

Any advise and recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Bill

 

PM Sharif at Forged Internals

or try 626 485 2100 cell

Cheers Amy -

 

balancing..under 180 dollars...
boring cylinders, this price really varies... from $150-$350
are they assembling the motor as well?

 

No, pretty much all the machine shop will be doing is the boring and balancing and any other machining that needs to be done.

 

i'm paying $20 a hole to bore and hone, with $180 for balancing. they also match each piston to it's respective cylinder to make sure tolerances are perfect.

 

I just got off the phone with one of the machine shops here and he sent me a list of rough costs for each job.

I also asked him about the matching of pistons to each cylinder and he told me that on brand new pistons, it's not necessary. However I have heard from more than one person about having this done. What do you think?

Also what on this list should I have done, and what is missing from the list that I need to have done?

 

one thing is that there are no cam bearings to install. which that would fall under head work on an overhead cam motor anyways. looks like he gave you a generic quote sheet. i would also have the block checked for flatness before getting it decked. i'm guessing he is figuring decking both the block and heads. best to figure out if it even needs to be surfaced at all, as doing both can effect cam timing and intake alignment if too much taken off. also depends on the type of equipment they are using to resurface with.
also, have the crank checked first for out of round and taper before they attempt a regrind on it. chances are you will still be fine to not have any crank grinding done. not to mention it will make it very challenging to get the correct bearing combination on each saddle.
are you using stock rods or after market ones? the rod conditioning cost has an effect on this. also r&r for press fit pins. most aftermarket rods are designed for floating pins and make it so anyone can install the pistons/ rods with spiral clips.
i trust my machine shop alot. since they also know i know what needs to happen, but don't have the tooling to do myself, they do exctly what i ask for. depending on your current mileage also has an effect on the amount of work that might need to happen. even matching the stock bearings can be a good education in code breaking techniques, it would be harder to figure it out with a ground crank. it sounds as though these guys have never worked on a vq35 before by the qoute. not to say they are not good at what they do, but they just havn't done this style motor before. a bore and hone is simple for most machine shops to do. the good ones (especially for forged pistons) will bore each cylinder then mic each piston and hone to the lower end of the clearance spec to reduce piston noise at cold start up. on a side note, the better quality piston and rod combo you get, will result in better initial balancing and a greater chance the cylinders can all be honed to the same spec too.

 

Based on what this guy told you "No need to match the pistons to the cylinders" would make me advise you to find another machine shop.

Each cylinder is going to be a slightly different diameter, and each piston is going to vary ever so slightly as well. In order to achieve the proper piston to wall clearance, each piston must be matched to each cylinder. Depending on the pistons, the piston to wall clearance will range between .003 and .005 inch. Take a look at your piston job card or spec sheet for the correct spec.

Also make sure your machine shop uses a trq plate. Since most shops dont have them, we have one for rental if you need it. Shoot me a PM.

 

i have stock bore CP piston's and crower Rods. do i have to do balancing or any thing.. like this??

 

You'll go crosseyed trying to match everything up and then you would be in a world of hurt if the crank had been ground. I just had to go through the bearing thing with Nissan and you have to have the service manual to do it. Anyone want to host the pages I scanned that have all the pages about the main bearings and rod bearings? I have them here I just don't have any way to host them on a high enough resolution so that they can be read. Anybody want to make it easy for the next guys? LOL.

 

Guys,

I can't thank you enough for the advise and I plan to follow through with all of it. I have since located another machine shop based on this information and that provided by the guy pulling and breaking down my motor.

Sharif, I will be sending you a PM about the details of the torque plate. I saw your phone number on your website and may just give you a call. The funny thing is that I will be moving to North Carolina in July, so it'll be nice to be a little closer to duty experts like yourself!

 

You'll have warm welcome here in the South East. Best of luck so you.