One of the wires is power, ground, and one is the signal wire. I believe the pinout is in one of those threads about the CAS wire. Otherwise its in the FSM. There are several copies floating around. If you don't have one I can AIM it to you.

 

Sounds similar to an issue I'm having with my Z (which is n/a). It will take a prolonge time to crank/try cranking a few times before it fires up. Or it just down-right wouldn't wanna start for like 4+ attempts. And this would happen randomly with no SES light going on. I noticed that when the car is warm the nismo cams did make the engine crank over a little bit to fire up. But overtime a diff probl all-together cropped up. I dont know if my description is what your also encountering. But my Z's been to the dealership and they tried tinkering with the ignition module which seemed to have helped for a little while - then it started doing it again, although very rarely now. I'm thinking about replacing the CAS itself as well. Weird *** problem to say the least.

Good luck on your endevours but there's already been some great suggestions provided - hopefully you'll get it singled out right away.

 

Also, is this sensor easy to find as I did, facing the floor, with the connector right from the bottom of the tranny? It looked too easy to reach. Maybe I'm even looking at the wrong sensor.

 

Nope that sounds like the one. Its pretty easy to get to.

 

Whats your AIM dude, let's talk real quick please.

 

Problem solved. Emissions control solenoid was disconnected. NOw its cranking fine. I'm sure he'll post up soon.

 

Way to go.

I'm glad so many people are getting their kits installed and running well. Its just too bad that everyone automatically blames the reflash for anything and everything that could go wrong.

 

Well, this morning, sadly, I go to my car, get in happy, ready to go to work, I killed the battery car didn't start. Period. I went to the autoparts, bought a code scanner, paid 150 for it, the 25 dollar ones only scanned ford lincoln mercury. And the 50 dollar one scanned GMC.

I come home, and it gives me 4 codes. 2 codes for EVAP system (open) and 2 codes for Several cylinder Misfire????? Now what.

 

Is it possible that after all that cranking you have been doing, that you could have fouled out your plugs.

Reset the ecu again and try cranking it.

 

Thats what I would do. Reset the codes, and replace your battery. Its probably on its last legs...

 

I don't understand this about fouled out my plugs. Please explain, I bought the code reader, and it deletes them too. I deleted them, I'm at work. I'm going to lunch in 15 minutes. Hopefully the CEL doesnt come back on, and the car starts fine. This is really frustrating.

 

I think you mean my spark plugs. Time to go buy TR6 plugs, if that's what I need, if not please correct me, which spark plugs should I buy for boost?

Thanks.

 

Replace battery, clear codes. If you are still having problems switch to one step colder NGK Iridiums http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1

 

Replaced battery, clear codes, no CEL, car still didn't start tonight. It spun and spun until it killed a brand new battery. I blew my cellphone on the floor , just to not kick the car. I have run out of options. I called everyone. Did everything, I can't take this anymore. I'll pay for the solution. If anyone in Miami can take care of this. Let me know. I have had it.
Thank you.

 

I am getting the same s**T my car has the greddy twins. It well crank 4 or 5 times before it turns over ( but it always starts ). and I am also getting a multiple random cylinder misfire code. I have been dealing with this for over a year. I replaced the crank angle sensor wire with the shielded one, got a new fuel pump for more fuel, got a kenetix ssv plenum for more air, got colder plugs, new battery and retuned the car. still not fixed! my car runs great when its started and runs over 400 horse on the dyno. but yea, I have the same problem.

 

Problem fixed here, NEW battery. Took care of everything. I mean, everything. Thank you everyone for the help. I had replaced it with my friend's Z's battery, and that didn't work. I went to ADVANCED Autoparts and bought their titanium battery. Put it in, it doesnt even crank once. It just turns on from the key turned.

 

Okay i put my car on a dynojet today, I pulled 337whp, and 338 torque, consistent on 3 passes. WTF is going on. I see you all have over 400, what happened to my car? Someone answer...

 

The people that are making over 400rwhp are usually the one's that have a piggyback and fine tuned the car and in most cases raised the boost as well. What does your afr look like? I think I've read where someone said that you can send the ecu back to TN multiple times to get your afr fixed if its lean or too rich.

 

AFR is at 11 at most cases, drops to 10.9 once or twice... I have the AEM wideband EUGO... I don't have a piggyback, and my car feels like it has a lot more that 337 whp. I raped an extremely boosted EVO last night. I mean, rape. The guy came down from Broward, FL looking for races on a Saturday. He found me eating at la carreta, and walked to me asked me to race... NOW. lol. I went with him on the highway and pulled an easy 6-8 cars by end of fourth... This guy had an upgraded turbo, huge hks intercooler, AEM standalone, hks exhaust... mmmm I don't know...

 

If you dynod the car right after the battery install plus all the problems you've been having the ecu may have reset. You will have to give it time to relearn. The dyno you went to may not have been set up right. And last you can't always believe what you read.