Fuel Regulator question
I have a question about Fuel Regulators; I just put the AAM Fuel Return system on my car with the Turbonetics Turbo setup. The car will run fine for a while then the car will die, and when I restart the car my Fuel presser gauge is at 4 bars. When I turn the key off and on a few times it goes back to normal for a little while and then does it again. Is the Fuel Regulator bad? Is there a way to check?
the regulator is bad or you could have plumbed it incorrectly. meaning, wrong direction of flow through it. what pressure do you have it set for? possible restriction or pinching in the return line?
Originally Posted by overZealous1
the regulator is bad or you could have plumbed it incorrectly. meaning, wrong direction of flow through it. what pressure do you have it set for? possible restriction or pinching in the return line?
I have it set for 2.9, we check all the lines and they seem to be good. we also checked the fuel filter, and pulled a bunch of stuff out of the filter bag. I don't think that it was plumbed wrong as it was installed at SGP when they built the motor. With the regulator set at 2.9 should it hold at 2.9 or fluctuate up and down? Is there a way to check the regulator?
Which fuel pressure regulator is currently installed? Is it a red aeromotive unit, or a silver looking reg.
At idle, the pressure should be pretty steady and consistent. You might noticed some small changes in pressure, due to temp, or electrical voltage on your system....both of which can change slightly.
At idle, the pressure should be pretty steady and consistent. You might noticed some small changes in pressure, due to temp, or electrical voltage on your system....both of which can change slightly.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Which fuel pressure regulator is currently installed? Is it a red aeromotive unit, or a silver looking reg.
At idle, the pressure should be pretty steady and consistent. You might noticed some small changes in pressure, due to temp, or electrical voltage on your system....both of which can change slightly.
At idle, the pressure should be pretty steady and consistent. You might noticed some small changes in pressure, due to temp, or electrical voltage on your system....both of which can change slightly.
4 bar is nearly 60psi. That would not be enough to shut the car down while cruising, but might be enough to stall it at idle..but honestly...probably not.
We have tuned some cars at 58psi of differential fuel pressure, and they idle just fine. In fact, the APS TT kit runs 58psi of differential fuel pressure.
We have tuned some cars at 58psi of differential fuel pressure, and they idle just fine. In fact, the APS TT kit runs 58psi of differential fuel pressure.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
4 bar is nearly 60psi. That would not be enough to shut the car down while cruising, but might be enough to stall it at idle..but honestly...probably not.
We have tuned some cars at 58psi of differential fuel pressure, and they idle just fine. In fact, the APS TT kit runs 58psi of differential fuel pressure.
We have tuned some cars at 58psi of differential fuel pressure, and they idle just fine. In fact, the APS TT kit runs 58psi of differential fuel pressure.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
No it doesnt. What size injectors are you running?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge inside the cabin, so you can observe?
What RPM does your engine idle at?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge inside the cabin, so you can observe?
What RPM does your engine idle at?
Originally Posted by bverschage
750cc
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
750cc injectors can give people some stalling and idle problems. Have you had your idle increased? We usually run the larger injectors with 900-1000rpm idles, and they idle just fine.
the idle was set at 1000 rpm, and seems to run fine. the only time that the idle changes is if you rev the motor, then the idle drops down to 600rpm for a second then comes back.
what i don't understand is that the car runs fine, till you put in the clutch to stop then the car stalls. the car does not studer or shack it just shuts off.
Originally Posted by bverschage
the idle was set at 1000 rpm, and seems to run fine. the only time that the idle changes is if you rev the motor, then the idle drops down to 600rpm for a second then comes back.
what i don't understand is that the car runs fine, till you put in the clutch to stop then the car stalls. the car does not studer or shack it just shuts off.
what i don't understand is that the car runs fine, till you put in the clutch to stop then the car stalls. the car does not studer or shack it just shuts off.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Was a throttle body reset done on this ECU?
The plugs wont help you.
Try doing the full array of ECU reset procedures, and see if that fixes the issue.
I would also double check your engine for vaccum leaks. What is your vaccum at idle on your boost gauge?
Try doing the full array of ECU reset procedures, and see if that fixes the issue.
I would also double check your engine for vaccum leaks. What is your vaccum at idle on your boost gauge?
what has been done to the throttle body? is there a rise in fuel pressure when the clutch is pushed in? it should drop a little pressure at idle/high vacuum. sounds like it is an issue with the throttle body. has it always done this? how was the idle raised?
Not sure what was done to the throtle body, as that was done at SGP. When at idle the boost is at 0.6, but now whenever I start the car the fuel pressure goes to 4 and stays there.
the clutch that I am running is the RPS Max Street
I think that the idle was changed through the E-manage
the clutch that I am running is the RPS Max Street
I think that the idle was changed through the E-manage
you got some weird stuff going on man, lol. idle can't be upped on the emanage. the fuel pressure should go up and down with the boost/vacuum. you must have a couple other symptoms that are related. just need more and exact symptoms to help further.
so it was running correctly before though, right? any check engine codes?
so it was running correctly before though, right? any check engine codes?


