Built engine newbie
Ok, i have a couple questions..... i might be interested in building my motor or buying a built one. what is the difference between a short block and a long block....? i have forced induction so im thinking i want to keep the compression low. I have a procharger i am going to want to boost the hell out of it, like 14psi.'s. Where is the best place to buy built motor? SGP....?
thanks justin
thanks justin
I will be happy to give you a quote...what are your power goals? Is 14 psi the maximum that you would like to run?
Several options exist:
We offer a longblock build (built block with choice of upgrades to heads, this package is sold completely assembled and timed, with front and rear timing covers installed!
Shortblock: we can build just the lower end of the motor, install new pistons, rods, replace all of the bearings and seals for a freshly built forged motor...
Feel free to PM me with any questions you may have.
check out the following link, this may explain more:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....=1#post2193651
Several options exist:
We offer a longblock build (built block with choice of upgrades to heads, this package is sold completely assembled and timed, with front and rear timing covers installed!
Shortblock: we can build just the lower end of the motor, install new pistons, rods, replace all of the bearings and seals for a freshly built forged motor...
Feel free to PM me with any questions you may have.
check out the following link, this may explain more:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....=1#post2193651
check with vortech first and see what the max impeller speed for the vortech compressor. 14psi might start heading into unsafe impeller speeds.
difference between a short and long block is that a long block will have new or reconditioned heads and typically assembled minus intake and a few other things. short block is just the main block and bottom end (crank, rods, pistons, etc.)
oops, reread, i meant ati not vortech, lol.
difference between a short and long block is that a long block will have new or reconditioned heads and typically assembled minus intake and a few other things. short block is just the main block and bottom end (crank, rods, pistons, etc.)
oops, reread, i meant ati not vortech, lol.
Last edited by overZealous1; Mar 13, 2006 at 07:17 AM.
Originally Posted by jy535
Ok, i have a couple questions..... i might be interested in building my motor or buying a built one. what is the difference between a short block and a long block....? i have forced induction so im thinking i want to keep the compression low. I have a procharger i am going to want to boost the hell out of it, like 14psi.'s. Where is the best place to buy built motor? SGP....?
thanks justin
thanks justin
Any procharger guys out there that can chime in?
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im going to stick with my Procharger.... i dont want to deal with selling it and what not...... I want to push the procharger to the limits, around 14psi, and try to hit the highest number possible.... i no i have to have a motor built to do that. im just concerned with prices...... i think im going to go with a short block reason being is that the most whp i will be hitting will be 550 i think, that should be plenty safe for a shortblock.....
what kind of setup would i need...... motor wise? im def upgrading my fuel system and getting the utec installed this spring. There is a guiy on here with a built motor and a procharger and he is only around 400 whp... he said he thinks he went to low with compression....... 400whp isn't worth building a motor, after i do my fuel system over i should have well over 400whp. i dont want to have a motor built if im not going to have over 500 whp, it wont be worht it.....
I wish Trefling would chime in here . I read a post from him last night . He is at 8.5 to1 compression built bottom end . Yes he said a little over 400whp [ cant remember psi ] I know he said he sprays NOS and boost goes up to 15psi and over 500whp . Dont know how big of shot he sprays
Last edited by booger; Mar 14, 2006 at 02:53 AM.
ya, this is some of the reasons i switched my ati out for the greddy kit when i built my motor. you would prolly be better going with a 9.5-1 comp and use the knock benefits of the utec. another issue i had was busting blower belts. not 100% sure though if it was from the speed or from pulley misalignment.
Originally Posted by jy535
what kind of setup would i need...... motor wise? im def upgrading my fuel system and getting the utec installed this spring. There is a guiy on here with a built motor and a procharger and he is only around 400 whp... he said he thinks he went to low with compression....... 400whp isn't worth building a motor, after i do my fuel system over i should have well over 400whp. i dont want to have a motor built if im not going to have over 500 whp, it wont be worht it.....
Rods are a hot topic right now..the eagles should be PLENTY strong for 550-600whp, their design is very comparable to other rods in the similar league...if you want the added safety precaution, and if you plan to go even higher in power numbers, you can go with the heavier, beefier pauters...
let me know if I can answer any questions..we will have a few darton sleeved motors available asap as well
jy535
your inbox is full...
I'm not sure I am clear what you are asking with your timing question..if you buy a shortblock, you will need your mechanic to transfer over your heads and time the motor and install the rear and front timing cover (we do that if you purchase a longblock with heads)...
I personally run 9:1CR...I think that is the perfect size piston for forced induction on these cars
Let me know if you have any additional questions, happy to help
TODD
your inbox is full...
I'm not sure I am clear what you are asking with your timing question..if you buy a shortblock, you will need your mechanic to transfer over your heads and time the motor and install the rear and front timing cover (we do that if you purchase a longblock with heads)...
I personally run 9:1CR...I think that is the perfect size piston for forced induction on these cars
Let me know if you have any additional questions, happy to help
TODD
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
I personally run 9:1CR...I think that is the perfect size piston for forced induction on these cars
I can't imagine running any lower than that. Actually, if I built a new sleeved motor, I'd consider going for 9.5:1CR.
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