tecni

iTrader: (28)

Wednesday I'm getting my forged internals and I was wondering huw much I can safely boost on my stock fuel system.

I only have a walbro 255lph but I'm still running on the returnless fuel system.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

stock fuel system runs out arounf 450whp if I'm not mistaken..sharif?

what size injectors are you planning on running? what fuel pressure?

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

With just a drop in fuel pump, I would not push it much past 400whp. Without a fuel pressure gauge on the car, it's hard to tell. But we usually start running out of fuel near 400whp.

With the money you have spent on your forged build-up, it would be highly advisable to install a return fuel system and larger injectors, prior to pushing past 400whp.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I would have gone with a higher CR and used less boost. Dropping the compression will require much more fuel and thus you will be at a lower HP than if you went with a higher CR. I wouldn't even push it to 400whp on that setup considering your CR. You will be at maybe 8-9 psi, but your fuel demand is not comparable to someone at stock compression.

tecni

iTrader: (28)

well I got RC 440cc injectors that came with my Greddy kit. Will I need to get bigger ones now?

More fuel now? Arghhh I thought it was BAD on gas when I had the TT's in. I've been enjoying the good gas mileage now that I've been driving around N/A LOL

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Not now cuz 400whp seems to be your limit-which is because of your fuel system. Most people tune to high 300's low 400's whp with 440cc injectors-general rule of thumb, there are exceptions is that 440cc = 440whp, 550cc=550whp worth of fuel etc. Even with a fuel system, I wouldnt push those past 420-430whp.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

to give you an idea, I dropped my compression to 8.8:1 on my build. Stock cams and heads. Upgraded the actuator arms and left the stock APS fuel system and injectors in (aps rated 500CC - us spec 440's).

My tune is 14 psi max at roughly 4000 rpms, but I need to taper to 11 psi at redline, because I am out of fuel. I have relatively high tq at the 14 psi, but 'only' 450 whp at that 11 psi.

Compare the GRD shop car on stock compression making over 500 whp at 11 psi of boost on the same fuel system and you see what I am getting at.

Now with your setup, you will be in similar water, but you will be running an even more stock fuel system than me. I would advise upgrading to a CJM or AAM fuel system.

yes, your milage will suffer. I saw about 24 mpg on the 400 mile trip back from IL after the build. City driving is a rough 15-17 mpg.

tecni

iTrader: (28)

24mpg? I had 21mpg @ 6.3 psi!!!

tecni

iTrader: (28)

I was just thinking of getting these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

and going down to American Motorsports (they keep almost any size steel braided line and all sorts of fittings) and just fabricate the return fuel system on my own.

What do you guys think of those fuel rails?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

If you are going to spend 300 bucks on rails, you might as well spend the money on an AAM or CJM setup IMO

tecni

iTrader: (28)

I've had my eyes on AAM but I hadn't heard of CJM. Is there a website I can look them up at?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

CJ-Motorsports

tecni

iTrader: (28)

thanks!

Also, I broke one of the banjo bolts that are located on each side of the oil pan. (return lines).
I tried ordering them from Greddy but they take forever to get so I went out and tried finding replacement fitting and this is what I came up with:

Is this safe? Looks a hell of a lot better than those stipid banjos.

mraturbo

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I missed it. What FI system are you using?

M

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

He has Greddy

mraturbo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

M

tecni

iTrader: (28)

yep greddy, I mentioned the walbro coz its just another mod I put in.

tecni

iTrader: (28)

Got the pistons and rods in... Here are some pics from the assembly.

tecni

iTrader: (28)

I didn't really run into any problems assembling them. I copied the ring pattern from the stock pistons and applied it to the new ones. The other thing that's sort of tricky is the fasteners that hold the shaft that connects the piston to the rod. THese "C" shaped fasteners can really mess your fingers up but I used the needle nose from the leatherman to push them in and sure enough, I developed a technique for it.

I tried to undo the two rod bolts but they seem to be on really tight. THese arn't reverse thread, are they?

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

not to bash, but why pay the big money for the pauter rods and then get Wiseco pistons?