my radiator is bigger than yours.... this is america bigger is better

I ordered the 53mm koyo and will couple it with the nismo low temp therm. I hope it fits well!

 

Amen! I just ordered the the same radiator as you (Koyo 2577 - 53mm)

 

Like others have mentioned, a little trimming and filling is necessary for the 53mm Koyo install, but it's no big deal. I don't track my Z, but enjoy the added insurance of knowing my engine will never over-heat.

My KOYO




I like to drive in the 5-7k range for 5-10 minutes at a time, especially when M3s or 911s want to play.

I was thinking of installing one of those oil coolers too, with shut off valves for winter, just a thought

Zquicksilver

 

Zquicksilver-As for the oil cooler you will want to look into a thermostat as you mentioned in order to prevent the oil from dropping below operating temperatures. I believe they make a sandwhich adapter with a built in thermostat that would work awsome for something like this and goes in between the block and the oil filter!

While I have heard that ARC's technology is amazing and will offer excellent cooling even when compared to the larger radiators out there, it will cost an arm and a leg and you better hope that you never hit something because it will cost a fortune.

I know that Howe racing can make a radiator for the 350z at about $250. Looks are not the best, especially compared to Koyo, but if you just want the added reliability it may be another option for you at a reduced cost!

 

Here is what I want to know about the "thermostat" for the oil. If it doesn't work as a bypass valve (bypassing the cooler) than it would stop all oil flow. this is how your thermostat works for you coolant. Are you just using thermostat as a slang term, or does it really stop the oil from flowing, since that would be a really bad thing for your engine!

 

hmmm...

ok so i was reading the description for the Koyo Cores.. they're stating 20-30% increase in efficiency in water cooling ability...

so with the 53mm being over 37mm larger than stock theoretically Koyo is stating 20-30% better.. lets just say its in between @ 25% eff..

so if you go with the 36mm one, which is only 20mm larger, then is it safe to assume that since this radiator is only 13.5% more efficient than stock?

i with people had water temp meters with hard data compared to the stock water temp meter. that thing is a POS.... i've seen water temps pulled off OBD2 in the mid 250s and that thing is like a little past middle.. but i've seen temps in the low 200s and its still in the middle...

also.. from previous experience with PE...and knowing their relationship with ARC.. could the PE radiator = ARC ?

 

So which radiator is a POS the 53mm koyo?

 

Maybe it's 20% better for the 36mm and 30% better for the 53mm.

 

i am running the koyo with gutted thermo. i also have 100% distilled water with purple ice. my car NEVER gets over 185 and i live in florida. i think this is a great cost friendly way of doing it.


i have the utec to monitor coolant levels so i know this is right on...

 

Efficiency goes down as you go thicker. Same for radiators as intercoolers. In other words, you won't get the same gain from an extra 17 mm in thickness as you do from the first 20 mm increase in thickness. In other words, there is an optimal thickness, beyond which you add less and less to the overall efficiency.

ARC = PE radiator? Man, so that is like 700 for the ARC emblem? PE looking good.

 

Um yeah you might want to do some additional searching on the web man.

What he means is it cuts the flow to the oil cooler not to the entire engine. The thermostat is inline with the opening for the output of the sandwich plate. the most of the oil in the coler will drain back into the system, well a good portion of it atleast (depending on your setup)

 

much like with turbochargers, and intercoolers, getting to the heart of what "efficiency" actually means is really difficult. I thicker core is more restrictive, so there is a trade-off at some point. All I know, is that I ran on the track with the stock rad at 500whp plus, and never really encountered too many issues with overheat. I know have the 36mm core, and the coolant correction mod I've posted on early, and my coolant temps never exceed 96F...even after repeated dyno passes in hot weather. That said, thick core crowd hasnt complained either.

IMHO, I like the 36mm....simply becuase it fits without any modifications whatsoever, and offers a cooling improvement over stock. They are also cheap, and readily available. $400 plus shipping....

 

Experience trumps all theory.

 

BTW...I am half asleep recovering from yesterday's open house. I meant 96C in that post.

 

I will vote on "Sharif" info. I have the 53mm and a little minor touchup(big deal), but I'll definitely stick to KOYO, as I know several here in NorCal with APS TT's and they have no issues. Sharif is always on target, and if I was in Florida already, I'ld be in his shop now. Presently in NorCal, till I retire. Than I'll be in Florida, near Pensacola.
WSchli1672

 

Here is my question:

Does effeciceny go down with increased thickness or volume?

Reason being is that in the future I will need to run a slightly narrower radiator (couple inches) and am hoping to make up for it with thickness. Based on my research I have come to the conclusion that a 36mm radiator of stock width would be more than adequate for my HP goals so maybe if I go to a more narrow radiator a 53mm thick core would be of the same effecieny (roughly).

Would this be correct?

I will be adding high CFM fans to it at the same time along with the rear coolant modification as Sharif has and upgraded cooling for my oil. On top of that many things will be coated to keep heat in and wrapped with exhaust wrap also.

 

I have also removed the thermo - since like Jeremy I live in a warm climate. I will say that I have only seen my temperature rise one time since I have installed the Koyo and removed the thermostat. Yet, that was after 45 min on Track at Road Atlanta and I was passing a GT3 Cup on the back straight and it was about 90F outside. Yet, the temperature only raised a bit and when I came into turn 12, my temperatures came back down.

Jeremy - it has been a long time since I have talked to you. Levent just asked if I had talked to you.

Any interest in Sebring in October?

 

You are right - thicker doesn't mean better. Yet, what is the most efficent thickness for our cars - I have no idea. I went with the 36mm since I was affraid of decreasing the efficency of my IC.

You only need a high CFM fan if you drive in a hot climate alot in stop and go traffic. The fan does nothing once you get up to speed.

Also, if you wrap parts, just remember that the heat got to go somewhere. And most of the time it causes the metal to deform, no big deal unless you take a part that you wrapped off, it won't go back on.

And adding on extra oil cooling is the best bang for your buck IMO.

 

If you have Darton or any type of iron sleeve, dont even think about running water wetter or distilled water. Your sleeves will rust....I wish I took a pic of mine when I swapped studs. My block smelled like dirty socks.
Even with distilled water and water wetter...they will rust.

 

The 20-30% increase in efficiency is just a general marketing line for all Koyo's. They don't rate the actual efficiency increase on each application because they make so many. Its just a tag line. I've used Koyo's on several cars and they've all worked awesome. If you need more cooling, a Koyo will deliver it.