Sharif is right about the WI will help you with your detonation problem. I would recommend tuning for WI and without. Actually if you are going to run WI I would have a normal pump gas tune that is less aggressive especially since you will have the availability to make more power with WI installed.

Jermaine@turboxs.com

 

Engine bay, but when you are driving, it might sound like the sound is coming from the cabin. Detonation has a way of being very omnidirectional. Guys, I have never heard a car rattle (non-detonation) so badly at WOT, that you can actually hear it over the engine. If you are hearing rattling at WOT, especially around 4500-5500rpm, its almost definately detonation.

 

has a terrifying 'dieseling'-like sound, or that you stuck a fork in a metallic fan... it's not liekly to be mistaken for a heat-shield rattle or something.

I'm just concerned about the degree of wear/damage already created? For the meantime, 100-octane has solved my problem. I ended up pulling the trigger on Failsafe's Aquamist setup he had for sale, so hope to have that in sometime soon.

 

Was your car tuned on a load based dyno? I think you should find somewhere that does so that the load is better simulated to real road conditions.

Also I think you're starting to push the limits of a high compression engine and boost. I think if you want to continue your current setup that you should start looking into lowering the compression of the engine.

 

Beer, Beer, Beer... that would take money.. and time... LOL Why would I wanna do things correctly?

Seriously, tho - yes, it was tuned on a Dyno Dynamics (load-based dyno), but the detonation was (is) heard only in real-world driving. Sukkk...

No joke - definitely on the fringes of limitations with the current setup; we'll see how the WI setup fares and see if I can buy myself some margin of safety.

 

I maybe wrong . But if you have the dyno operator put more load on the motor..it should do it on the dyno .

 

Do they make a beer injection? Turn that boost down or start filling up with rocket fuel.

 

A friend had a similar problem with thier turbo'd IS300, it ended up being too high of a compression for the boost he was running.

Just out of curiosity, have you logged your injector duty cycle? I wonder how close you are of overrunning those 440's at that boost pressure.

 

I haven't; I've not pursued any datalogging hardware/software - I will make note to ask next time the car gets tuned, however.

Day 4 of 96 octane and she runs beautifully. Aquamist setup should be in my hands by Friday, so by Fri. nite I hope to have install/test run results posted.

 

Installed the Aquamist setup last night - sprays at 8psi - works pretty damn well thus far. Used a pressure regulator off my HVLP gun and a blower-attaachment connected to the vac line, and had the gf sit in the car to verify what the boost gauge was reading and dialed it in.

Problem is finding wiper fluid with an appreciable amount of methanol in it (PHX drivers don't have the freezing concern, and most of the wiper fluid I found so far is summer-rated at 32+ degrees.). Bought a bottle of methanol from NAPA and did a 50/50 ratio yesterday.

Problem being, still having slight 'detonation-like' sounds; now wondering if its an oil problem (low level, wrong weight, etc.)

Can't really tell you what the level is - this dipstick is a POS. Running Mobil 1 Synth. 5-30; would like to try a heavier weight but again, difficult to find in synthetic around here You'd think living in a city of 5 million people that sh*t would be easier to find... *sigh*

Will let everyone know how things go - and will post pics of the Aquamist install later tonight.

 

Glad I'm not the only one that thinks that!

Good to hear you are getting everything worked out

 

I find it easier to check the dipstick from the back side, not the labled side. It seems to stay put a little better. Just pull it out real quick and flip it on the back, works for me.

 

yeah it's harder to see the oil level with synthetic oil too. And the car really needs to sit for 20-30 min before getting a halfway good reading. But it's still a POS dip stick IMO

 

I'm gonna go grab some bottles of HEET and up the methanol a bit to see if my ratio is insufficient; that, and, change the oil again with a heavier weight.

 

Joe try castrol syntec 10/40 5.5 qts it should fill it to the top of the bump on the pos dipstick. This works well with my TT that includes the filter to. Good luck with the rest.

 

I used regular oil and just change it ever 1500 miles. Castro 30 weight. I put in 6 qts with a new filter.

 

kinda makes me wonder if a j&s safeguard would have been a good investment to help make knock positively identifiable and be a lot more proactive at stopping it with the timing being pulled.

 

Changed the oil to 15W-50 and ran 50/50 HEET/distilled water; pinging has remarkably dissipated, but occasionally present at 5500 – 6500 rpm.

Talked with the tuner, he stated he advanced the timing considerably to compensate for boost taper, and that he’d be more than willing to back it off a bit. For now I’ll just up the ratio of methanol/water and wait for my replacement mid-pipe to arrive, hopefully resolving a majority of my boost tapering.

The Aquamist kit works beautifully, however!