Okay, haven't posted almost all winter... So here is my update.

I recently installed a 'custom' Water/Meth injection kit, as well as 'custom' 3" exhuast system.

I also ripped the unichip and replaced it with the E-manage Ultimate, added in some A/F guages, and away we go...

Doing a voltage clamp at 4.9 volts allows me to keep the stock ECU from dumping in TONS of gas, and I've been able to get it tuned for pretty much 12.5 A/F across the board 30%-100% throttle all PSI. Couple that with stock timing on the top end, and 10.5lbs of boost results in a very consistent ~460whp. (Dynojet, .98SAE) (~360whp was previous best with stock exhast)

WI kicks on at about 5lbs of boost, and rides to redline. (Converted the windshield washer tank.)

So all that is nice... onto the problems.

• For some reason injector scaling doesn't seem to work right. We had to fill out the whole map.
• JAMMING the gas, causes it to go rich for a moment until the 'air' catches up.
• Trying to wire in a fail safe, so if I run out of Meth, my car won't BOOOOOM
• Custom exhuast is too loud. Need more resonation, and/or some silencers.
• Minimum boost is about 7-8psi now that there isn't any back pressure. The waste gates don't flow enough.
• Greddy's manuals SUCK.
• About a 1psi boost fluxation, Greddy Profec can't seem to keep it steady.

8psi with pulled timing should be fine... So if my cars new meth habbit isn't maintained, I'd like to have the EU run pulled timing maps.

However if the meth is flowing, I would like it to run the agressive maps. Switching between maps on the EU is not intuitive.... I want it to instantly pull out if the pressure sensor on the meth doesn't read right. Have very vague and crappy information on how that is supposed to work... So I'm hoping someone has crossed this bridge with the EU.

Other then that... It's loud, and fun.

Does anyone have any switching experience with the EU?
How much resonator do I need to run to get this thing under ear splitting? (18"? 24"?)
Any ideas on the boost flux? I understand the path of least resistence, and why it avoids the waste gates... But I don't get the 1psi wobble.


I should have a dyno + rpm + trq +hp +psi to post today.

 

Why do you always wanna rely on the WI why not run a safer pump gas map then a race gas + more timing + WI map? Just curious...congrats on getting it up and running though.

 

It's actually a APS kit, minus the unichip... I replaced the CPU and Boost controler with Greddy parts.

I've seen a hundred cars on this dyno and trust its numbers. They line up very smoothly with what the manufacturers quote. (For example a stock Z06 put down 356, GTO+headers puts down 360, etc.) I've seen the numbers that come off other dyno's (For example the unichip dyno in town.... 50hp swing from this dyno.)

I don't track the car, so I'll always have pump gas in it... I'm 'currently' more concerned with a safe tune then max power. The WI is there for that safety... It needs to last another 8 months before I build the block.

I may end up going to a dual - manual map... but I wanted it always locked and loaded... Just a foot blip away.

We found that pulling timing in the 3ks added over 60tq in that area... apparently the knock sensor was getting close and having it pull tons of timing... So my tq curve is pretty extream. It used to look all smooth like other graphs.

... /-------------------------\
../
/

I'll rattle their cages in about 30 minutes for that dyno graph again.

BTW Thx!

 

How much timing did you pull and in what spots if you dont mind me asking? And what kind of "custom" WI did you go with?

 

I'll have to look at the map when I get it back...

We heard a ping when we were tuning it, so we just pulled 5 degrees at 2psi+ from ~2.5k-~3.5k to see if that would clear it up... Next pull we were shocked with the amount of gains we made in that area. This is right before the WI kicks on.

I don't have the timing maps sitting in front of me... I think they ended up pulling 3 to 7 in that area and maintained an agressive TQ curve to match. Once we were sure the WI was on, we stopped touching timing at all... So I've got a narrow band of timing adjustment is all...

0.0 0.0 0.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 -6.0 -5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
0.0 0.0 0.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 -6.0 -5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
0.0 0.0 0.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 -6.0 -5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
0.0 0.0 0.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 -6.0 -5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
0.0 0.0 0.0 -3.0 -4.0 -5.0 -6.0 -5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
RPM/MAP

It looks something like that from memory... I'll have to pull open the software when I get in the car next.

The WI is pretty simple... Its a high flow generic pump... Hooked up to a relay so the EU can turn in on/off.

The pump has a built in pressure sensor that we use to currently toggle the waste gate... That isn't going to save my engine, so we want to move that pressure sensor to control the Ignition Map. (Circular really... EU turns it on with the switch map... It then changes the ignition map in the EU if there is + flow)

Custom hardware to tap the windshield washer tank... Tapped the stock APS intake pipe, with a static nozzle in there... We're running a static flow. It's not super scientific, and its not scaled based on MAP/MAF or anything like that... Its pretty simple yet effective.

 

You basically program in a delay via the Acceleration Injector Adjustment Map. Taking out some fuel will help with the rich condition at throttle tip-in.

 

Do you have an example of that King???

I've read the manual front to back, and I tried to get the tuner to use that map while driving... and he wasn't able to affect change.

I'm not sure what he did. (I was driving) Once I get the car back, I'll have my brother with me, and we can check it out.

I just left the shop, and they are going to add a meth light so I know when I've got flow... And I noticed my bumper is melting... ... ... Not even 150 miles, and its cracked from the heat. Ooops

I'm having them cut the exhuast, change out the 12" resonators with 18" ones, changing the cans to 6" longer ones as well. Cutting the bumper and backing the cans up a bit to help with the carbon buildup that is going up my back side. (Dirty). And heat flashing... I've also ordered 2.5" silencers as a last resort. If adding 12" more muffler/resonator doesn't do it... Well... I may have to bolt in the silencers when not on the freeway.

I feel bad, cause the shop quoted me low on the exhaust in the 1st place, and lost money... But they have been outstanding and stuck with the original quote, and have worked hard for me.

 

i make 453@8.5 psi on pump 93 octane, with just a custom exhaust and a Fcon, no meth, and my AF is 10.5-11.4 depending on the amount of boost i run. Isnt 12.5 pretty lean, are you on a stock block?

 

12.5 is pretty lean... Normally they tell you to run 11.5 and increase boost for the power. I'm using the meth to compensate for that. I'd rather run 12.0-12.5 and pull timing then just add extra gas.


http://www.smokemup.com/tech/fuels.php
http://www.waterinjection.info/

Stock block.

 

Hmm, definately interesting. Seems like a rather complicated and expensive way to make the same numbers that others are making but good to see people trying other ways of doing things.