So during my build I was gone most of the time, and I requested a little late to get the the manifolds wrapped. Needles to say the engine compartment gets realy hot. I've already had to wrap the Fuel Pressure regulator to keep heat down in the fuel system. The intake however is sucking in realy hot air.

So here is my Hypothosis: If I can relocate the filters for the Greddy TT kit out of the main engine bay I can reduce the temprature in the intake system. Mostly have the #'s to prove the effectiveness of the relocation.

Procedure:
Procure Heat resistant flexable ducting. Cut the Ducting to length and rout the filters out of the engine bay into the front of the fenders.

I've purchased the K&N's and I'm waiting for them to arrive on island (DAMN HAWAII). On MCmastercar I found flexable reenforced flame resistant tubing that is 3"ID 3 5/16"OD good for 8" of HG (way less than the open tubing will create).

I'll data log engine temps for a few days and get an average temprature for multiple driving conditions (open highway , Highway heavy traffic, city normal traffic, city heavy traffic). After the base line days I'll relocate the filters and do it all again; getting all the necessary temps.

I'll compile every thing and see the results. I know it will decrease but with my hotter engine bay temps I want to know how much of an effect it has on the charge temp.

This is a little experiment thats realitively inexpensive, I was buying the filters any way and the flexable ducting cost $15.65 not including shipping; from Mcmaster-Carr. The shipping is more than the ducting, which I cant find locally .

So what do you think? At least we will have #'s for the relocations with K&N's.

5' Flexable ducting $15.65 P/N 5666K17 McMaster-Carr
2X K&N Filters P/N KNN-RU-5111

NOTE:And yes before I get any critisism about the OD of the flex duct and ID of the filter not matching, they will fit they are both flexable materials. I would rather have 2 filters I can use if this does not work, opposed to 2 peices of ducting I could not realy use (except on redheaded stepchildren J/K).

EDIT: Below are pictures where roughly the Greddy p!ss poor blue filters are located now and the second pic is where roughly they will be relocated to.

 

great..keep us posted!

 

I'm wondering about your coolant overflow tank - the stock overflow tank recirculates from a hose at the bottom of the tank - how can yours if it feeds at the top? Is this what comes with the Greddy kit?

I am also interested in your experiment - have the PE TT kit, and those cleaners are in the same basic position and I would like to relocate them also.

 

I'd just like to know where you think there's room for something like this lol

 

Yep the tank fills from the top. I was wondering about that too. Now it's just a glorrified catch can. At this rate I will replace the damn plastic can with one that has a pickup on the bottom. Its been begging me for a bit.

 

They have two sizes at Autozone and the other places, that have the bottom feed, I got one hoping to put it in front of the radiator on the bumper beam, it was just a hair too large, cost about $6. The two sizes are out on the shelves. Looks like it could fit where you have yours. Or tap the bottom of that jug with a fitting.

 

Got the flex hose in just now. I think I should have gone with the thick walled ducting, the thin one will work but I might change it all to think walled for more support.

It still is heavier duty ducting so I'll try it. Here is the picture of the tubing and the end. I will probably do a 3" OD coupler for making sure the flex ducting mates well with the filter.

 

Nice..

 

I have APS ST and my air filter is located at where you want your driver side filter to be. It should definitely lower the intake temp. I had an open style air filter inside the engine compartment when I was N/A just how your filters are located, and my car idled like S$$T and pinged because it was sucking in hot air. Get some PCV pipes at your hardware store.. That flexible hose you got will melt.

 

According to McMaster-Carr this id flame ducting is rated to over 250+ degrees. It's industrial ducting for fume hoods, grinders, sanders, ect. It should not melt under engine bay hood temps. If it does its over 250 degrees and I bigger problems than relocating the intake filters.

The average intake temps over the last 2 days is 75 F under light city traffic for 30-45 minutes and 63 F for light highway traffic. Times have been between 1pm an d 3pm and ambient temp has been 83 F. I'll get a few more days of numbers and try some heavy traffic on the highway and city to see what I get.

All temps and time are within the same time frame and aproximate atmospheric conditions (no Rain, simmilar temps, simmilar speeds, and roughly same driving conditions under the same catagory of driving condition)

 

Actually, the hose that you purchased, if it is part number 5666K17, Blo-R-Vac GP PVC duct hose, is rated from 20 to 160 degrees F., if I am reading the catalog correctly. But I think you are right, if the amibient temps are higher than that, you have other problems. I am thinking also that you are right, the thicker hose might be better.

It looks like gurgen used the high-flow blended polypropylene/rubber duct hose, part number 5915T18 (6.91 a foot) when he did this same project but for the PE TT kit. That hose is rated -60 to 275 F. Of course, this hose is twice the price per foot.

 

Yeah I just looked up the company's sight the #'s for McMaster-Carr I was mistaken about the temp range. Those were for the one I was looking at but it was $21.36per foot (52945K41).

Either way the temp range is way beyond the extreemes we see here... If not there is always this one 56365K23 with a temperature range of -65° to +500° F and is abrasion resistant. That should cut it. Again though I would have bigger problems then CAI at that point.

EDIT: I was actualy looking more towards the spec piping gurgen had but I could not find it. So I went with what I could find. If I decide to keep it I would go with some thing with a smoother interior for higher flow. This stuff is more like drier hoes interior.

 

Tried looking up his thread or profile but I cant find it. It says its an invalid user name. Do you have a like to his thread? Just currious to wee where he ran the ducting.

 

OK got the couplers I neede and All the intake ducting is assenbled. Pictures are waiting, but damn computer. Been having some issuses and had to restore at a restore point and I lost photoshop forsome reason so yeah trying to get photoshop back up.

Numbers are being compiled for average high, low and mean. I broke it down to day and night as well.

So as it sits average temps are:
Day
City Lt traffic 22c
City Heavy Traffic27c
Highway Heavy25c
Highway Light20

Night (realy no traffic at night)
City 18
Highway 10


pictures will come when photo shop comes up.

 

I've heard of that ducting collapsing, if they make a thicker wall ducting I'd order it. Think about how much suction those turbos are creating through that. Excellent idea on the filter relocation though

 

Adobe is back up so here you go. I used a black PVC internal coupler for flex piping from home depot. Cut it down, mounted the K&N's with hose clamps then threaded the long end of the coupler to the ducting. Secure with hose clamp and.... Bam!! You got 2 ducts ready for relocation and instalation.

 

It looks like there is no way this stuff will collapse. It takes alot for me to deform it due to the hard a$$ steel wire core. It is rated for 8" of Hg and our intake with the open end, 3" diameter, and high flow filter will not colapse the ducting. Only if a plastic bag flew up and covered the entire filter, would it collapse.

side note: The interior is much smoother than I realy thought. The reenforcing wire core is on the out side of the duct suspending the PVC underneath. So it looks like it will get better flow than I thought. Should have posted this sooner than this but been side tracked with vacation and all.

 

They look excellent. I think I remember that coupling from when I ran my gutters underground from the front to the back of the house. Did you get it from the drainage pipe area? I might have one here in the shed.....next to the short block VQ.....

 

Yep same stuff. It's the only thing I could find with the right diameter that coupled on the inside and was rigid enough not to collapse when I tightened the hose clamps down.

Note to every one, just because they sell it in a hardware store does not mean it has to be only for the House. The PVC does not know what its being used for.

EDIT: If you look closely at the finished ducting where the coupling is, it looks like it is suposed to be used for this.

 

gringott,

Where in KY are you at?