PM me payment instructions, plz.

Danny

 

Money sent. Hopefully this really does some good.

 

Great Timing, just in time for my rebuild.

Danny

 

so does the threaded bolt, thread into the support brace down in there, in between the combustion chambers? Or does it simply butt up against it

 

this is where i'm referring too, in case my 1st post didn't make sense.

 

you preload the stud against it. did not want to drill into it at all as you would lose strength and possibly add areas for stress fracture. i have checked the seating on it though, it sits very flat to keep pressure distributed and not at just one single point.

 

Put it down. Show up at Calspeedway May 21, 2006 and let's see if all the air, fuel, and studs, trheading, and fixes can put the power down.

LOL

Looks fun Scott. Show up and I will by 20 kits plus exhaust.

M

 

looks like i get to take another trip, lol. been wanting to head down for one of these events you guys do. heck you buy that many kits and exhaust, and i'll help ya install them on your car, hahaha.

yaknow, i may be able to kill a bunch of birds with the same stone. you guys need that other exhaust right about that same time too. the Z will look like a pick-up, lol.

 

gotcha,
so this actually helps the block itself from flexing & twisting, which in turn can create small momentary gaps between the block & the heads.
You're just using the heads as basically a support for the block.

 

Umm, I like this mod alot but am I the only one thinking $110 is a little expensive for a few studs and nuts? Maybe I'm way off. I'm interested, I just need to get some money

 

you are getting close. this is to help keep the head from flexing and lifting off the block. the block will not try to separate from the head, but the opposite. since the head studs are the only thing keeping the heads on the block, this is to strengthen the area between the head studs in between the cylinders.
the block will only move or deform in a side to side motion, the head will move in an up and down motion. this is the help keep the head from being able to move up and down in this area. in between the cylinders also is the main place i have seen this on other motors, and on the VQ, this is also the thinnest area for combustion to make it to a coolant passage because of a thin cut inbetween the cylinders that connects the water passages. this is commonly called a steam channel.

 

not just for the studs, but....

research, testing, fitting, finding the product, time, etc.....

so if the special studs cost him $50 bucks a set(guessing) he's allowed to make a profit...

also, somethings don't sell for what they cost the seller...

they sell for what they're worth to the buyer..........

my 2 cents

 

now i get it!!!!

sometimes i'm a little slow. (my mom always said that,hummm)

 

i originally thought i could do this for less also. but what would normally cost a few bucks a piece, i am having to spend WAY more because this is such a rare application for this thread size and even rarer for the thread pitch. only one place i found in the u.s. for this, and they aren't cheap. it is worth it for the money as it is still cheaper than changing the thread size and pitch and also makes it so you can do it in the car. it also takes me about 30 minutes of work each set to make it so it can be installed.
actually, if you do one at a time and keep your rad cap on, you don't even lose a drop of water, lol.

 

Sounds good. I'm feeling you on the thread size and pitch. I had to go to 3 different places just to find a Grade 8 12mmx1.25 bolt. I can only guess it took you for ever to find this stuff.

 

lol

 

you are almost right on the nose with shipping included, and this is not figuring my labor, lol

 

Mom always said I was a good guesser too!

 

oh wait... 4.....0.....0..... posts

ok off to bed

 

Just brilliant overZelous.
For $110 shipped not expensive at all.