Head strengthening mod
#61
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inside of the head in the cooling passage, at the floor of the head there is a structural beam cast in that is designed to strengthen this area between the cylinders. this casting brace is nice and flat and is centered directly under this casting hole. it is nearly impossible to take a good pic of it, so trust me, it is there, lol.
#62
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
No, from what he said it sits upon the cylinder walls as a support for the heads.Unless I am missing something..Im confused
#63
Originally Posted by meatbag
beat me to it. Is the nut reverse thread so the bolt wont back out?
#65
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It's not touching the hg. It is just supporting the bottom of the head. It's not touching the cylinder walls either. It's just acting as a brace between the cylinder for the head. It's keeping the thin area between the cylinders down. Here's a pic of the bottom of the head. There's only 2 of them per head.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
How exactly does this work?
Here is a picture of the head where the stud is, and the second one is a picture of the block.So your mod runs a full length stud through the hole for the allen bolt, and into the head gasket that lays upon the surface where the two cylinder walls meet. wouldnt this in theory not only damage the head gasket in that area, but also PUSH the heads AWAY from the motor, when you want to hold them down??
Here is a picture of the head where the stud is, and the second one is a picture of the block.So your mod runs a full length stud through the hole for the allen bolt, and into the head gasket that lays upon the surface where the two cylinder walls meet. wouldnt this in theory not only damage the head gasket in that area, but also PUSH the heads AWAY from the motor, when you want to hold them down??
#67
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Originally Posted by theking
It's not touching the hg. It is just supporting the bottom of the head. It's not touching the cylinder walls either. It's just acting as a brace between the cylinder for the head. It's keeping the thin area between the cylinders down. Here's a pic of the bottom of the head. There's only 2 of them per head.
#69
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Ok I have a question, I am trying to understand where the loads come from and where they are applied on the head that would cause that section to lift.
Could this be because people building motors are normally going to 0.020 oversize on the cylinder diameter but the head is not being machined to match therefore leaving a small ledge providing a surface to have load on it?
Could this be because people building motors are normally going to 0.020 oversize on the cylinder diameter but the head is not being machined to match therefore leaving a small ledge providing a surface to have load on it?
#70
Originally Posted by westpak
Ok I have a question, I am trying to understand where the loads come from and where they are applied on the head that would cause that section to lift.
Could this be because people building motors are normally going to 0.020 oversize on the cylinder diameter but the head is not being machined to match therefore leaving a small ledge providing a surface to have load on it?
Could this be because people building motors are normally going to 0.020 oversize on the cylinder diameter but the head is not being machined to match therefore leaving a small ledge providing a surface to have load on it?
ok, take a high pressure water line, like 10" diameter. put a cap over the end, and just use 4 bolts to hold the cap in a nice semetrical square pattern. now pressurize that water line till you get a leak. where do you think it will leak first? at the areas least supported, directly inbetween the bolts holding the cap down. now what would happen if you put a whole bunch of weight on 2 sides of the cap, they will no longer leak. not sure if that is more confusing, but the idea is the same, lol.
on my car and others, the center cylinder has been the prob. not to say this is across the boards, but there seems to be a pattern. the center cylinder, on both sides of it, is closest to the water passages. more "weight" needs to be put on the sides of this cylinder to help keep the leaking at bay. that is what this mod does. not neccesarily more weight, but a more solid surface less prone to movement.
#71
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Talk about being slow....I just finally got a grasp of this problem..
So in a nutshell, there is a leak in the head to cylinder mating surface due to the higher pressure from F/I. In turn, the leak is contained within open deck portion of the block which also happens to be the coolant passage. This is what is causing the excessive high pressure in the coolant system forcing all the engine coolant into the overflow bottle..
Is this correct??
Would it be possible to further remedy the problem by o-ringing the head? Essentially, you could just machine a small groove around the perimeter of the combustion chambers on the head equal to the diameter of the cylinder bores, minus a few thousandths. Then just drop in stainless o-rings, your head gasket & torque away. Combined with this mod it should totally eliminate the problem..
So in a nutshell, there is a leak in the head to cylinder mating surface due to the higher pressure from F/I. In turn, the leak is contained within open deck portion of the block which also happens to be the coolant passage. This is what is causing the excessive high pressure in the coolant system forcing all the engine coolant into the overflow bottle..
Is this correct??
Would it be possible to further remedy the problem by o-ringing the head? Essentially, you could just machine a small groove around the perimeter of the combustion chambers on the head equal to the diameter of the cylinder bores, minus a few thousandths. Then just drop in stainless o-rings, your head gasket & torque away. Combined with this mod it should totally eliminate the problem..
#72
Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
Talk about being slow....I just finally got a grasp of this problem..
So in a nutshell, there is a leak in the head to cylinder mating surface due to the higher pressure from F/I. In turn, the leak is contained within open deck portion of the block which also happens to be the coolant passage. This is what is causing the excessive high pressure in the coolant system forcing all the engine coolant into the overflow bottle..
Is this correct??
Would it be possible to further remedy the problem by o-ringing the head? Essentially, you could just machine a small groove around the perimeter of the combustion chambers on the head equal to the diameter of the cylinder bores, minus a few thousandths. Then just drop in stainless o-rings, your head gasket & torque away. Combined with this mod it should totally eliminate the problem..
So in a nutshell, there is a leak in the head to cylinder mating surface due to the higher pressure from F/I. In turn, the leak is contained within open deck portion of the block which also happens to be the coolant passage. This is what is causing the excessive high pressure in the coolant system forcing all the engine coolant into the overflow bottle..
Is this correct??
Would it be possible to further remedy the problem by o-ringing the head? Essentially, you could just machine a small groove around the perimeter of the combustion chambers on the head equal to the diameter of the cylinder bores, minus a few thousandths. Then just drop in stainless o-rings, your head gasket & torque away. Combined with this mod it should totally eliminate the problem..
#73
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Excellent
Originally Posted by overZealous1
yup, you are finally up to speed, lol. i personally plan to o-ring my motor. it can only help.
Your Load Head fix is nice because the Head is not removed. And only requires
the Valve cover to be removed.
O-Ringing is a Engine out.
Cheers Amy -
#74
Originally Posted by AmyCroft
Now that you have the Stud and Anti-Spinout Lock Nut issue explained. O-Ring ala Supra will take the sealing issue to a Engine Tear-Down level.
Your Load Head fix is nice because the Head is not removed. And only requires
the Valve cover to be removed.
O-Ringing is a Engine out.
Cheers Amy -
Your Load Head fix is nice because the Head is not removed. And only requires
the Valve cover to be removed.
O-Ringing is a Engine out.
Cheers Amy -
#76
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Bye the way - I will bet the Japanese Crowd Will be at your door..
Originally Posted by overZealous1
yes, this is truely a stroke of luck this can be accomplished with out pulling the heads and only the valve covers. this is as easy as it will ever get for this type of mod.
I know the Japan Side of 350Z people will be on your door soon. Get a Patent or Patent Pending.. A few bucks now and If Nissan adds it to the common block - you will score big time.
Sounds Small - Upside Big.
Cheers Amy -
#78
Originally Posted by AmyCroft
OverZealous:
I know the Japan Side of 350Z people will be on your door soon. Get a Patent or Patent Pending.. A few bucks now and If Nissan adds it to the common block - you will score big time.
Sounds Small - Upside Big.
Cheers Amy -
I know the Japan Side of 350Z people will be on your door soon. Get a Patent or Patent Pending.. A few bucks now and If Nissan adds it to the common block - you will score big time.
Sounds Small - Upside Big.
Cheers Amy -
btw, just to help you guys out, if you pull your motor apart to figure out the thread size and pitch, you won't find it local (99% of you atleast) and your car will be down for days, even if you do find it, for shipping. just a warning, so you don't end up with downtime if your car is already running.
will call a patent attorney first thing in the morn.
#79
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
will call a patent attorney first thing in the morn.
Keep all your notes, copy of this thread, anything that shows when you started working on this mod..
#80
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Thats f**king awesome Scott! You gotta PM me a link to these threads when you start them lol. I just found this one and its already 4 pages long. You are one sick f**k trying to fit that 6-71 on your Z, but I like it . If anyone could figure it out, its you. I will have to get one of these kits from you for sure! Got anything else coming up that I will want to buy?