Ok I'm just trying to get a better understanding of what it is that is actually causing the stock engine to let go.

Most of what I have read is that....its the revs that kill the motor instead of power. Is that what everyone else is seeing? Has anyone blown a motor NOT because of detonation/over reving but just on sheer power??? 450whp or so is what most say is the limit on a stock block. Is that because the internals just cannot withstand more power? or is it based on the detonation/over rev thing? Of course if you are pushing 550+ on the stock block then you are sure to break something soon. that much power really wares ish out quickly.

Just trying to better grasp this

 

this has me wondering too, I've always thought redline is where detonation likes to live, but I've also heard that it's where your peak tq is that can cause things to break. Some people have blown up their engine at 4k rpms just cruising with light throttle - after a certain amount of time giving it hell - with turbos anyway. People that have blown up engines with superchargers have done so at redline or because of bad or unchecked tunes or changing weather conditions - colder air, more boost etc

Either way I think it's the engine stress and how long you stress it that hurts it. People have blown up engines on APS kits who did everything right - good tune, decent cooling, 96-101 octane gas, etc and no one really knows why it happened.

I'm hoping that water injection turns out to be a big added safety factor

 

pressurizing somethings puts stress on pretty much everything that is pressurized. pressurizing a gas even in ideal circumstances increases the temperature greatly..now add friction, heat thats already there from the previous compression ect, and you get a very hot cylinder that is pressurized..now throw some highly explosive fuel in there as a mist, and its bound to explode. if the fuel explodes too early, it'll push against the rod in the wrong direction..the energy has no where to go, so the rod flexes...itll stay deformed...itll get stressed even more...and then you're cruising down the street at 2k rpm and suddenly the the rod gets too stressed and breaks. at redline the piston and rod assembly is traveling somewhere in the 25-30meters per second area, and in a cylinder thats probably no more than 20cm tall, thats very fast....you can see why stuff breaks under pressure.

 

Thats detonation. i'm gathering there are two main killers...Detonation and Revs...keep those at bay and you should be ok

Does anyone know what the stock rod can actually hold?

P.S. I am liking the sound of that Turbonetics Meth Inj Kit

 

okay out of the two, a sudden change in momentum causes damage...in the case of revs, the rod is going back and forth and the sudden change in direction puts stress on the bearing.

 

I have a pretty good success story, maybe its luck, maybe its proper maintenance/driving.

I beat the car pretty good, but what i do not do that ive seen a lot of blown motor drivers do is repeated long pulls and sustained high RPMs, I rev it to red line then shift, I don't stay past 4.5-6600rpms long.

Gas- I always put in 100 oct, i use approx 5-7gal per fill up because i don't trust cali's crappy 91 oct. I suspect the gas isn't always 91 here. Especially at cheap stations.

Oil- I change the oil 2500-3k or when needed because the car does burn oil.

warmups- my car warms up everymorning for at least 5min. No less, never!

Only problem i've been experiencing is what seems to be air pockets in the cooling system.

I've run 440whp and 410wtrq from Jan05-Sept05 approx 15Kmiles
Then i retuned for 9.5-10psi 463whp and 445fttrq Sep05-Now approx12k miles
I had 28k miles when I went FI, I know have 55k miles. This is my daily driver, why because its too damn fun and you only live once. Try my methods if you like, Im just stating whats worked for me. Listen to your car, or pay attention to whats happening because with this work you remove your safety net and bad things can happen quick. GL

 

IF 450whp is relitively safe with no other mods...why couldnt you do 500whp with lets say all the cooling mods...Oil cooler...H2O/Meth Inj Kit...larger radiator...tuned of course

 

you mean you let the car sit for 5 min before you drive off or wait 5 min before you go WOT?

I let the car sit 15-30 sec as I get situated before I leave. My engine is already turning at 1000rpms for my idle and I figure lightly driving in the 1000-2000 rpm range won't hurt too much.

with FI I'd NEVER go WOT until my oil temp is up to 180 degrees. I'll get on it a little when it gets up to 140 degrees, but I won't go past 5000 rpms and won't go WOT until I hit 180 degrees. Oh and the coolant obviously has to be up to temp too, but that happens pretty quick

 

hehe that's always the question isn't it? Just a little bit more...

 

Got that right!

i'm just wondering what it could handle before it breaks BUT breaks because of power NOT because of a mistake (detonation/over rev that sort of thing)

 

Yes and yes, in the morning, I take the car out of the garage and let it idle while i get my lunch, books, and feed the dog (looks around for people spying with .40 cal). By the time im done its about 5min. When i take off I don't go over 3k for about 5-10min til I hit the freeway, then its ***** to the wall usually to about 5-55k rpms or redline if someone tries to cack block me.

 

most definatley agree with you bart. you NEED to maintaine the car. putting more stress on the car means maintenence will be more important than ever. warming the oil up before boosting and making sure ur oil is changed and making sureu get get good gasis important