Our theory on stock rod failure...
#162
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Oleg,
If you think buying a Mazda or Nissan 240 and cramming an LS1 engine into it, is going to be a reliable and long term problem free set up, then you have ALOT to learn about automotive modding my friend.. Leave the LS1's where they belong, in Camaros and Vetts...
In a nut shell taking a motor from a different car and putting it into a Nissan is FAR more reliable than boosting the VQ in stock form...
If you think buying a Mazda or Nissan 240 and cramming an LS1 engine into it, is going to be a reliable and long term problem free set up, then you have ALOT to learn about automotive modding my friend.. Leave the LS1's where they belong, in Camaros and Vetts...
In a nut shell taking a motor from a different car and putting it into a Nissan is FAR more reliable than boosting the VQ in stock form...
#163
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This thread has gotten completely GAY!! They really need to make a forum for users who actually have a clue about what their talking about, so we can post freely without this BS happening like it always does..Im sharing some information with the forum, and I got guys saying that the VQ motor sucks and the 2JZE is king Last time I checked The fastest 2JZE was in the 7's, the fastest VQ was in the low 6's. A properly built and tuned VQ motor will walk all over a 2JZE motor all day and night as far as displacement,Tourq,power and a REAL USABLE POWER CURVE..The VQ is capable of peak TQ at 4500rpms, where as the Supra's basically are 2-300whp until 6000rpms where they peak to their max power, to me their power curve is not comparable to properly built and tuned VQ, its the next big block of the import world...Remember the 2JZE had to me boosted to make 280hp in stock form....
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
This thread has gotten completely GAY!! They really need to make a forum for users who actually have a clue about what their talking about, so we can post freely without this BS happening like it always does..Im sharing some information with the forum, and I got guys saying that the VQ motor sucks and the 2JZE is king Last time I checked The fastest 2JZE was in the 7's, the fastest VQ was in the low 6's. A properly built and tuned VQ motor will walk all over a 2JZE motor all day and night as far as displacement,Tourq,power and a REAL USABLE POWER CURVE..The VQ is capable of peak TQ at 4500rpms, where as the Supra's basically are 2-300whp until 6000rpms where they peak to their max power, to me their power curve is not comparable to properly built and tuned VQ, its the next big block of the import world...Remember the 2JZE had to me boosted to make 280hp in stock form....
Not to mention, our 6MT drivetrain is built like a brick sh**house compared to that of a supra.
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Oleg,
If you think buying a Mazda or Nissan 240 and cramming an LS1 engine into it, is going to be a reliable and long term problem free set up, then you have ALOT to learn about automotive modding my friend.. Leave the LS1's where they belong, in Camaros and Vetts...
If you think buying a Mazda or Nissan 240 and cramming an LS1 engine into it, is going to be a reliable and long term problem free set up, then you have ALOT to learn about automotive modding my friend.. Leave the LS1's where they belong, in Camaros and Vetts...
Either way, after this info surfaced there is no way in any hell that I would boost the Z. Knowing my luck, the engine will decimate itself as soon as I touch the gas pedal.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
This thread has gotten completely GAY!! They really need to make a forum for users who actually have a clue about what their talking about, so we can post freely without this BS happening like it always does..
Originally Posted by taurran
Not to mention, our 6MT drivetrain is built like a brick sh**house compared to that of a supra.
#166
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oleg just stop, your just wrong please. Even if you get what you want your car will be OLD. Or go get a vette but then you wont have your whole its cheaper thing. Am unmodded vette that outperforms a modded Z isnt any cheaper than what your looking at. Why not downgrade your FI to a TN ST build your motor and youd be at 12-14 grand including all the other bs. Why do you have to have aps TT? Also since your a paranoid kinda guy the ST doesnt boost as low down so you can tool around town out of boost easily and only boost when you care to show off thus saving you gray hairs.
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Originally Posted by gatti-man
oleg just stop, your just wrong please. Even if you get what you want your car will be OLD. Or go get a vette but then you wont have your whole its cheaper thing. Am unmodded vette that outperforms a modded Z isnt any cheaper than what your looking at. Why not downgrade your FI to a TN ST build your motor and youd be at 12-14 grand including all the other bs. Why do you have to have aps TT? Also since your a paranoid kinda guy the ST doesnt boost as low down so you can tool around town out of boost easily and only boost when you care to show off thus saving you gray hairs.
I did consider this setup too. The reason why I have scrapped it is that I will kick my own *** for not going TT as soon as the first TT hands my *** to me.
I do realize that I look like I am asking way too much for the 2 coins I am rubbing together. Still, I don't want a half-assed car to save money. But I will not drop nearly 20,000 into a car (waste of money, no matter how much fun), simply on principle.
Besides, according to this revelation even the mildest boost has no guarantee that the engine won't let go.
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
Come on, live a little. It's only borrowed money
sorry, guess I'm getting the thread off track again...
sorry, guess I'm getting the thread off track again...
No you're not. It's been off track since my nervous breakdown on page 6.
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Still, why wouldn't the motor let go when I do get into the boost?
The bottom line is, either way you look at it, rationalize it, compare setups, prices, theories, etc, etc, etc (trust me, I've done it all), there is no totally safe boost solution for the Z without a built motor. Case closed, no and's, if's or but's.
Rather then settle for the risk, I would abandon this project and just do something else. Maybe this whole tuning/modding stuff is not for me after all...
The bottom line is, either way you look at it, rationalize it, compare setups, prices, theories, etc, etc, etc (trust me, I've done it all), there is no totally safe boost solution for the Z without a built motor. Case closed, no and's, if's or but's.
Rather then settle for the risk, I would abandon this project and just do something else. Maybe this whole tuning/modding stuff is not for me after all...
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Originally Posted by gatti-man
in a straight line a well driven st is just as competitive as a tt. also if you did lose to a tt you wouldn't get "your *** handed to you" you would lose by a car length or so given similar driving skill.
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Originally Posted by taurran
I'll have to agree here. I prefer the drivability of my ST on the street over a TT. These motors flow so much air, that sometimes that instant kick of boost can be a liability. Keep in mind this is only my opinion...
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Originally Posted by gatti-man
also if you did lose to a tt you wouldn't get "your *** handed to you" you would lose by a car length or so given similar driving skill.
Oleg: Stop being such a *****...Whats life without some risk involved
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Originally Posted by taurran
I'll have to agree here. I prefer the drivability of my ST on the street over a TT. These motors flow so much air, that sometimes that instant kick of boost can be a liability. Keep in mind this is only my opinion...
Plus there are design flaws in the single turbo that I personally do not like.
1) big hot turbo right up front next to your hood and headlights.
2) big hot turbo right next to your radiator..
3) the routing of the intake pipe is such that the intercooled air charge has to go right past the big hot turbo as well as over the hot manifold before it hits the intake.
Just 3 things off the top of my head, but this is only my personal opinon..
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I read through 4 pages of this thread so if what I am about to ask was already asked then please disregard.
There is a theory that some of the VQs are just built better then others. I am wondering if there is a year of Z/G that are popping more then others on stock motors with low boost (ie 8.5psi or under)?
And on the flip are there Z/Gs with long FI miles common in certain years?
There is a theory that some of the VQs are just built better then others. I am wondering if there is a year of Z/G that are popping more then others on stock motors with low boost (ie 8.5psi or under)?
And on the flip are there Z/Gs with long FI miles common in certain years?
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Now, having driven both set ups, I find a TT more predictable on the street than the instant off/on spool up of a big single..But thats just my opinion..I love how the TT kits feel like it cam from the factory that way..
Plus there are design flaws in the single turbo that I personally do not like.
1) big hot turbo right up front next to your hood and headlights.
2) big hot turbo right next to your radiator..
3) the routing of the intake pipe is such that the intercooled air charge has to go right past the big hot turbo as well as over the hot manifold before it hits the intake.
Just 3 things off the top of my head, but this is only my personal opinon..
Plus there are design flaws in the single turbo that I personally do not like.
1) big hot turbo right up front next to your hood and headlights.
2) big hot turbo right next to your radiator..
3) the routing of the intake pipe is such that the intercooled air charge has to go right past the big hot turbo as well as over the hot manifold before it hits the intake.
Just 3 things off the top of my head, but this is only my personal opinon..
1) I haven't heard of a single issue with heat regarding the proximity to the hood or headlights.
2) It might be in the same area as the radiator, but air flows past the radiator before touching the turbo.
3) Flowing over less than a foot of piping that is seperated from the turbine by a 1/2in heat shield doesn't seem to effect charge temps THAT much. It certainly isn't killing much power (according to hundreds of dyno charts) compared to other systems.
Believe my when I've heard these three reasons stated time and time again, but have yet to see any substantiated proof that it harms functionality in any way. Most of the time they are coming from users and owners of certain kits that have by far the largest profit margin of any manufacturer on the market. Of course I expect this, as it makes big money. However, there's a difference between not liking something and it actually being a problem.
I don't really care to turn this thread into any sort of debate. But, it's just funny how some people like to help by pointing out the same old worn out rhetoric any chance they get, and then wonder why their thread turns into one giant flamefest.
Last edited by taurran; 06-03-2006 at 07:28 AM.