shop got the heads off....head lift ?
Pictures of the HKS headgasket are on the HKS site.


Quote: "The HKS Stopper-Type gasket consists of the maximum layers of plates possible and utilizes a molded stopper ring around each combustion chamber opening."
HKS Headgaskets also have what appears to be a Viton coating on them, which eliminates the need for Copper spray.
I have had great success with HKS headgasket in every application I have used them, and now that they are out for the VQ - I would consider nothing else.
The HKS Part # is 23011-AN002, MSRP is 360 - they will sell for less then that. They are available anywhere. HKS USA had them in stock a few days ago, im sure they still do.


Quote: "The HKS Stopper-Type gasket consists of the maximum layers of plates possible and utilizes a molded stopper ring around each combustion chamber opening."
HKS Headgaskets also have what appears to be a Viton coating on them, which eliminates the need for Copper spray.
I have had great success with HKS headgasket in every application I have used them, and now that they are out for the VQ - I would consider nothing else.
The HKS Part # is 23011-AN002, MSRP is 360 - they will sell for less then that. They are available anywhere. HKS USA had them in stock a few days ago, im sure they still do.
Last edited by phunk; Jun 22, 2006 at 05:56 PM.
Originally Posted by Weqster
is the stock head gasket that bad? ANyone got pics? Im assuming MLS like most of the other gaskets. What is the price difference between all of these
the stock head gasket is very good actually. it is mls too. you can get stock head gaskets for $35 each if you know your parts guy good. looks like the hks one though runs and extra 4th layer around just the cylinders, which would create alot of pressure around the cylinders, similar to an o-ring. $360 sounds like alot though.
Originally Posted by booger
Mia
there was NO signs of the gasket failing between the Cyl.'s . But yes I am installing them just incase it does help some .
there was NO signs of the gasket failing between the Cyl.'s . But yes I am installing them just incase it does help some .
Originally Posted by overZealous1
ya, there are 2 axises that it will leak,between the cylinders or parallel with the runners. sounds like yours was the latter. that fix is very labor intensive and would be expensive to strengthen. between the cylinders is the cheap easy fix.
I took the concept that the leakage was :
1. The Cometic Gasket was damaged due to improper tourqe of the head.
( specifically - gunning down the head bolts nearest the exhaust - then tourqeing down the rest of the head nut's - That gasket can be crushed.. )
or
2. The deck was surfaced incorrectly.
What was your first impression?
Cheers Amy
-
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From: council bluffs Ia.
My shop seem to think it failed because of combination of running leaner on the drivers side [o2 sensor was on the drivers and A/F was good..low 11's ] and maybe not enough timing being pulled soon enough .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
Last edited by booger; Jun 23, 2006 at 05:32 AM.
Originally Posted by booger
My shop seem to think it failed because of combination of running leaner on the drivers side [o2 sensor was on the drivers and A/F was good..low 11's ] and maybe not enough timing being pulled soon enough .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
Originally Posted by booger
My shop seem to think it failed because of combination of running leaner on the drivers side [o2 sensor was on the drivers and A/F was good..low 11's ] and maybe not enough timing being pulled soon enough .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
My Question is ....if my A/F was in the low 11's from 4500rpm to redline . Why does the drivers side look like it was running alot leaner than the passenger side ? The passenger side pistons were all black with a good layer of carbon and drivers side were quit a bit lighter and almost all metal showing right where it was leaking .
You absolutely have to have dual bank AFR.
My instrumentation drove me crazy for a long time. I did everything, beginning with ECU resets, investigating and correcting the fuel trims (long and short-term), to swapping the injectors side to side. Here is the bottom line, and I am pretty sure of it, and I confirmed this on several cars too. The d-side always has a lower fuel trim number, by 3-5% points, hence the side running leaner than the other. I really do not know why this is the reason, but it was a huge problem. All i did to correct it was to play with the cyl 2 4 6 fuel tables in the EU, and voila.... now they are dead on equal. Before, they would differ by 0.4-0.8 points. Gotta run...
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From: council bluffs Ia.
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Maybe because the coolant was steam cleaning the piston itself?
Gurgen
WHen you said you changed fuel trims for the D side in the EU . Did you mean E-manage Ultimate ?
Originally Posted by booger
Arp L19 head studs trq.ed to 90ftlb's , and Cametic [ Cowsworth ] head gaskets
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From: council bluffs Ia.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
You had me worried for a moment. The upgraded L19 head studs that you are about to install, with a new gasket should solve your head lift issue, provided your ignition timing is nice and safe...which IIRC, its pretty conservative. 

Originally Posted by booger
Im not upto par on the ...IIRC....what do you mean there ?
I just recently figured it out too, so I've been using the term at every opportunity.

WRT: With regard to
BTW: By the Way
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
IIRC: If I recall correctly
I just recently figured it out too, so I've been using the term at every opportunity.
WRT: With regard to
BTW: By the Way

I just recently figured it out too, so I've been using the term at every opportunity.

WRT: With regard to
BTW: By the Way

Mr Sharif, your progress in 13375p34k / LEETSPEAK is lighting fast.
Phunk, any idea of HKS actually manufacturer's their own gaskets?
Cometic is prototyping this exact design, with stopper rings in the center. Not sure when it will be released though.
Cometic is prototyping this exact design, with stopper rings in the center. Not sure when it will be released though.



