rods and pistons??
i know everyone has asked this million times before but cant find what im lookin for but im going TN kit, since people are blowing their motors should i just go ahead and do rods and pistons to be safe and run more boost ????
not really sure how much this would be so maybe you guys can give some some tips.
not really sure how much this would be so maybe you guys can give some some tips.
If you are interested in what I'm doing, I'm getting my kit installed over the next week or two. I am going with Turbonetics also, aam fuel return, UTEC, 550's and some other little stuff. I'm going to run stock psi, stock rev limit, and a very very conservative tune. Looking for around 375rwhp.
My hope is to make it till December haha. I dont think you need to build right away as long as you are conservative. I could do the build now, but I would rather wait a couple months so it wont be such a dent in the bank account.
It just depends on how much risk you want take. From what I have been reading, and I've been doing a lot, it tends to be the people that go over the stock hp levels of the kit, raise their limiters, and just basically go with an agressive tune overall that blow up first. I mean look at MIAPLAYA, hes running the stock boost, sitting around 380rwhp and no problems at all.
But then again you have the guys that get away with it like Taurran who is over 400 on the stock motor. Like everyone else has said, its 50/50 toss up, but I certainly believe to can sway the odds on your side the more conservative you go.
Derek
My hope is to make it till December haha. I dont think you need to build right away as long as you are conservative. I could do the build now, but I would rather wait a couple months so it wont be such a dent in the bank account.
It just depends on how much risk you want take. From what I have been reading, and I've been doing a lot, it tends to be the people that go over the stock hp levels of the kit, raise their limiters, and just basically go with an agressive tune overall that blow up first. I mean look at MIAPLAYA, hes running the stock boost, sitting around 380rwhp and no problems at all.
But then again you have the guys that get away with it like Taurran who is over 400 on the stock motor. Like everyone else has said, its 50/50 toss up, but I certainly believe to can sway the odds on your side the more conservative you go.
Derek
see the thing is i want like 415 hp, i want to break 400's and i will be happy, i figured if i do rods and pistons i can run more boost and it will be safe, and make well over 400 easy
For "just" doing rods & pistons, can't you drop the oil pan & crank and put them in from the bottom so that the whole motor doesn't have to be pulled? Seems like a good cost compromise for more safety.
Originally Posted by kosmic
For "just" doing rods & pistons, can't you drop the oil pan & crank and put them in from the bottom so that the whole motor doesn't have to be pulled? Seems like a good cost compromise for more safety.
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Originally Posted by kosmic
For "just" doing rods & pistons, can't you drop the oil pan & crank and put them in from the bottom so that the whole motor doesn't have to be pulled? Seems like a good cost compromise for more safety.
It's not a honda accord your trying to sell for a quick buck. Anyway, it can't be done in the car. Way too many obstacles.
U will need to remove the heads as well. I never tried with the 350z, but heads and pan and u can slap it together incar. But it think u may find that the extra labour/work involed working within the restricted confines means the labour costs may equal that of a pulled engine.
The idea is sound though. on a fresh motor u can defaintly get away with a hone, and just installing rods pistons (always check piston->wall clearance)and rod bearings. THis would be super safe 450whp.
The idea is sound though. on a fresh motor u can defaintly get away with a hone, and just installing rods pistons (always check piston->wall clearance)and rod bearings. THis would be super safe 450whp.
If you have an engine crane you can just pull the engine yourself, and leave the built to the professional. That way you would save quite a bit of labor, but leave all the internal stuff that requires precision to the pros.
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