the aps is mostly controlled by the throttle, so just don't WOT the whole time

 

So you'd say, try not to venture outside of 5700-6000 too frequently, and it should be fine?
APS TT will make a CRAPLOAD of power even before redline...
And probably stay away from the manual mode, let the tranny sort it all out...

 

Mine is doing just great, on and off the drag track...

 

Maybe I should simply say, **** the turbos, and get a centrifugal blower too. Seemingly more 5AT guys are having no problems with them and I'd rather suffer the noise then a broken tranny...

 

I agree that the first question is definitely can he drive in 6th for extended periods of time. I agree that he can so long as he's not in boost. However, what worries me is his question #2 below............





Okay so I've got a G not a Z, so let's make that clear right now. My experiences are from my kit on my car. My car (APS TT, APS 2.5" true dual exhausts, stock block, stock intake, stock cats) has some boost creep beyond the 6.5 to 8 psi intended operating range. I'm not sure if Ty's going to be getting other mods, but if he was to say delete his cats, I could realistically imagine him easily and frequently running above the 6.5 to 8 psi boost pressures.

I have been on the gas hard enough one time (I can't tell you how long I was on the gas because I wasn't timing it, but I'm pretty sure wasn't enough to be 10 seconds worth) where I lost power at speed. It took me a while to figure out what happened. At first I thought my ECU was the culprit until I checked my peak boost. The peak boost registered at 12 psi meaning the wastegastes kicked in. Since then I've set my boost gauge warning for 9 psi, so if I see a light flashing, I get off the gas immediately.

So the reason for my concern for tyandrews is this;
1. He makes no mention of a built bottom end.
2. He makes no mention of the gauges (if any) he's getting to monitor his kit.
3. He makes no mention of who's tuning his kit.

I would really hate for him to be tracking his car and running it hard with the assumption that he won't be getting a consistent boost above the intended APS operating range.




Ty - The best advice I can give is to take everything that people are saying here with a grain of salt, myself included. Find a reputable tuner and ask a ton of questions until you are blue in the face. It's better to go into the FI game knowing all the risks. This way you can make an informed decision about where you want to take your car.

Best of luck on your build.

 

Well Said and thank you for your advice. to answer some of the questions....

It is a cat delete exhaust system that is going on my car, i have the nismo on it already, im just deleting the cats.
There is no built bottom end, just a stock block..
I have a three gauges a pillar with the usual gauges going in aswell as a boost controller, and it is going to be tuned in Calgary Alberta by one of the 4 APS dealers in canada. so he knows what hes doing.

But i'm asking him every question i asked on here plus more, it'll be a day of questions if you will.

anyway thanks again for the help everyone.

 

Wow i didn't even really think about this. This definately applies to me because i'm going to be boosting in the next couple weeks.

Here's my scenario:

I live in san diego most of the year for college but right now im in sacramento at home for the summer. I'm going to have to eventually drive back to San diego with the twin turbo kit on - which is about an 8+/- drive.

I'm going with the PE kit which spools at 2300...but i'm going to keep the boost really low, it boosts at like 4.8 stock and i'm going to throw a dual stage boost controller on for like 5psi and 7psi.

If i spool at 2300 rpms, doesnt that mean i'll be in boost like 24/7 on the freeway in 6th? Should i set the boost controller to like 2-3 just for the drive Down? Or will the turbo's not spool if i'm just crusing?

 

I have over 20,000 miles with my APS TT and some of those are track days. The APS TT comes conservatively tuned out the box, just make sure you check it on the dyno before you drive it. Give the turbo's about a 1000 miles of break in period before you drive them hard.
Once you start driving her hard, let her ideal for a few minutes before you turn her off - a Turbo Timer is a good investment, yet not really needed if you don't mind hanging out in your car when you stop.

Now, her is a question for all you APS TT guys - at my last track day and I was in 6th gear, once I got over 130 mph it felt like the car gained a lot (a whole hell of lot more) more power. I didn't have time to check the boost when I got to 147 mph since I had to threeshold brake and heal-toe for the turn. Do you guys know what is going on - I have a Blitz boost controller on her?

I don't know about PE kit, but the boost should be based on load. If you are driving down the hwy at constant speed in 6th your boost gauge whould read vacuum!

 

I'd run the kit a bit first before you delete the cats. As in my case you might easily make the designed kit boost while keeping them in and save yourself some $$$. It should be minimal $$$ to put the cats in if you still want to go that way in the future.

Just because they are an APS dealer doesn't mean that they know what they are doing. I had a horror story with my dealer. Go off of the experiences others have had with them.

 

Can your gauges read peaks? The way I found my kit was overboosting/boost creep was taking a look at my peak pressure.

 

Oyyy guys, I don't want to sound like an *** but how can you spend 5+ grand on a turbo setup and not know how it works?

Turbos spool under engine load. This spooling creates airflow greater than atmospheric pressure -- boost. Engine load is characteristically defined by throttle pressure (and typically at 50% or more), though other things play a part in this as well (transmission and differential gearing, for example).

If you're cruising in 6th gear at 75 mph (about 3k rpm), your throttle is definitely not going to be at 50% or more... so no "boosting" will occur. Conversely, with a belt-driven supercharger... "boosting" happens at a given RPM regardless of throttle, and is flat due to the blower's drive pulley being directly linked to your crank.

Also, 8 pounds doesn't always equal 8 pounds. Let's say Joe has a stock top end and with his FI setup (mind you, this goes for both turbo and SC) and with has his system setup for 8 pounds (by pulley or wastegate). His boost gauge registers 8 pounds and he's making 350 whp. Now Tom has an aftermarket intake manifold (manifold, not air tube) and heads, same FI setup (including an 8lb pulley or wastegate setup!) as Joe, but while making 350 whp only registers _2_ pounds. This is because there is less back pressure.

Point is... GZire is correct about deleting the cats. Since superchargers are linear, it's much easier to correctly tune and have expected results (with afr and such). Since turbos respond to load rather than rpm, they are much more difficult to tune for, and to have a proper afr will require retuning with every change... ESPECIALLY when it has to do with exhaust, as reduced exhaust backpressure will _increase_ power.

Anyways I'll stop blabbing. And yes, I'm jealous (me with my stock Z, sheesh). And great site!

Edit: Never go by a manufacturer's recommended boost range. You should know the breaking point of these motors and go from there. If they tend to pop at 450 rwhp, then get your tune below that

 

This is got to be the dumbest things I keep seeing posted on this site. Who the *** cares how it work as long as you properly maintain the car to keep it functional does it really matter? NO! I mean do you know how the plumbing in your $500K ( <----I am taking a guess) house works? Who gives a *** as long as the chit get flushed down the toilet.

 

Funny, I don't recall ever opening a waste gate on my plumbing so that my **** would flush faster.

It's not going to be a very functional turbo system when you blow a piston through the hood, now is it? I guess you guys are all big ballers rolling in 6 figure incomes, because I would never want to be in the position to replace my Z's motor after blowing 5k+ on a turbo system.

There's a large difference between knowing how to read compressor maps and putting together a custom turbo system based on efficiency, and at least knowing why your car speeds up when you press the go-fast button.

 

How is knowing how the turbo works going to stop a rod from flying through the block? Alberto knows a lot about his Z and his turbo kit and it didn't do him any good as he still threw a rod through his block..

 

I don't know Alberto, nor do I know his situation. If he knows turbos, then one would assume his tune was off or he pushed the system beyond his engine's capabilities. Monitoring EGT and AFR are the best ways to minimize unfortunate mishaps -- which he probably knows because he spent the time to learn how things work.

Instead of attacking the opinion portion of my post (and also the least significant), why don't you offer some feedback on the rest of it? While I simplified a few things, I don't believe any of my information to be incorrect.

Thanks for the warm welcome.

 

lol if you want a warm welcome don't make such a dramatic first post.

 

Apparently.

 

Yes - Blitz does. But, it keeps it in memmory until the next time you boost and on a road coarse, your are in and out of boost so much it is not funny.
And I don't want to test it on the street, can really see myself explaining that I needed to go over 140mph to test my boost

 

He tune was done by a very well respected tuner shop in the Northeast. He had all the safety features (fuel return system, wideband, EMS with knock amp, etc) and IIRC he was even in boost when it went.

I wasn't attacking you. I was just giving my opinion. I just so happens I don't sugar coat things. In fact I hadn't even looked at your post count.

Welcome to the forum.

 

Do you need help with parallel parking too?