well last night i was playing around with a friend and did a 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear moving burnout, and ended up snapping 3 wheel studs on the passenger rear. my guess is that the tires started to hop abit trying to bite and snapped them.
i know i have never over-torqued them and that wheel has been on for over 3 months now so i didn't forget to torque them either. wondering if anyone else has had problems with their wheel studs? lucily i had just gotten off the freeway when it happened and figured it out before totally loosing the wheel, but it could have been a mess!!
will be getting some arp studs tomorrow and swapping out both rear sets of studs. just wanted to give a heads up on this.

 

must be nice to do a 4th gear moving burnout...i would really like to see your car in person...too bad i live in WA, a bit too far to drive..

 

You pay to play

 

Please post the part # on the ARP studs, where you purchased and cost. It'll help everyone at some point...

 

the only ARP studs that will fit in the stock hubs without modifications are 7/16"... at least i never found any other. I dont like the idea of going down to 7/16", especially after i held those studs in my hand... they just looked so puny. I sent them back and put in NISMO studs, which dont look to be any higher quality then stock at all, just longer.

 

was the press fit portion of a arp 12mm stud too big or something for the stock location?

 

Here is a good read on Stud Issues;

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....6amp%3BR+Studs

You can get OEM Replacements for less than $1 each that work just as well. The Nismos are higher quality and longer through.

 

wheel studs come in several different knurl diameters and knurl depths. Between all the standard companies (ARP, Moroso, etc) I was only able to find one set of ARPs that fit the stock hubs. There are others that will fit if you want to actually machine the hubs to accept a larger diameter knurl.

The ARPs that I found that would be a direct fit had a 7/16" thread, which is pretty dang small.

 

What type of wheels are you running scott? Type of lugs? Maybe the wheel design, coupled with a different lug resulted in less thread engagement?

 

I destroyed a rear hub, had stud snap and shoot back into the e-brake jam up and made the other 4 break.....go 60mm Nismo...worth the money and haven't had a problem since

 

Noah how did you do that??

 

??? all i know is close-ended lug nuts had something to do with it....

 

Can new studs be installed without removing the spindle?

 

man, I've been through packs of wheel studs by now...because of the fn Prostar Shank lug nuts that keep on getting cross threaded somehow.
The Nismo studs are weak as butter just like stock.
I am getting Centerline wheels now for the track since they use regular lug nuts.

I would be very interested if someone can get ARP to make some that fit correctly

 

interrested on this . subscribing

 

Yes Thomas... This is a question that our primary ARP provider should ask ARP.

Cheers Amy -

Thomas, was it an issue of stud's and alloy wheel nut's?

With the power you are putting down, alloy wheel nut's may be contributing to stud failure.

 

the prostars are designed for that power, one of the big problems is that no one makes open ended 12.125 shank lug nuts that fit the prostars.
I never had that issue with oem studs but they won't let me run them because they are too short, however the 50mm nismos are a few mm too long and so when you torque them they tend to sheer the stud

 

called arp today. 12mmx1.25 in 3" length. i am going by memory, but 100-7710 was the part number i remembering right now. the knarl was just a couple thousands bigger too, so they should work fine. they are not cheap compared to a 12mmx1.5, but not bad at about $40 or so per set of 5.
talked with nissan also about the nismo studs, and got the responce that they are just abit longer and that is it. the strength is the same.

i will double check that part # for you guys tomorrow.

 

i am running the axis mods. the lugs are gorilla locks, they are a very good quality lug nut. i am getting about 8-9 thread bite, which should be plenty, but one stud broke inside the jug nut (with no thread damage to either lug or stud threads???) and the other 2 broke below the lug.
i am having a feeling a local tire shop that put my tires on a couple months ago didn't get the right torque though, or for some reason the lugs lost torque. i pulled my other rear off and there was no way there was 90lbs torque on them!! they came off very easily. so it could of possibly been my prob. will be switching to a lug that gets more seating area though.
my axis mods do not fit hub-centric though, which does put more stress on the lug studs.

 

yes they can, pretty simple and quick really. just pull the tire, pull the caliper, pull the rotor, and a hammer of choice (mine was a 5lb sledge) and there is room to knock them out the back. not sure if you can get a 3" stud back in though. will be finding out. but actually, 3" will not fit under my lug cover on the wheel, so i would need to cut them down first.