bri you need to run distilled water and water wetter in there, my water temp never gets over 180-185 ALL the time in Florida....


at least for the summer months!!

 

did this get resolved yet?

 

Water wetter is BAD for your motor. Do a search on it. The way it lowers your coolant temps is because it REPELS heat. Therefore the heat stays in the metal components of your motor. Guys have done tests with temp sensors in their heads, and with water wetter they saw lower coolant temps, but HIGHER actual cylinder head temps.

I'm sure with my standard 50/50 mix and an upgraded radiator I'd be 180-185 all the time. Don't you have an upgraded radiator?

 

nope...I had to work today...just got home, so I'm probably going to check that sensor thing out now...

 

My AC quit working after a tune and it was just a popped fuse.

 

I was only speaking from experience. I don't know what they did but they fixed it. Won't hurt to give em a call

 

one other thing that just pop in my head right now. Check the wire that runs to the a/c compressor it self. Drivers side of the timing cover single wire that connects to the a/c compressor, might have come loose or was never fully snapped back on from when you did the motor swap.

good luck
ryan

 

I think that was my problem as well...

 

Have you been messing with guages or anything under the steering wheel lately? There is supposedly a wire connection/sensor under the drivers dash that if disconnected the A/C and heater wont work properly. If your A/C is not on and you turn the air temp to almost full cold does it still blow the same as almost full hot? If so, sounds like this issue and is an easy fix. I also have this issue, I just havent found motivation to go look for this. Pics and info have been posted before. Good luck.

Edit-Im retarded I missed that post above explaing what I just posted. Keep us updated.

 

I'm with you here BriGuy. My A/C has been out for a while. Took it to the dealer and apparently there is a hole in my high side AC line. Must have been rubbing against my Vortech mounting bracket OR melted from excessive heat (I don't track it at all). Their conclusion was that I would have to remove the SC blower to properly fix the high side line since it was in the way. Not sure I'm going to go this route though. They don't feel comfortable with doing that type of work (removing the SC that is) so they suggested taking it back to GRD, having them fix the high line and then bringing it back to the dealer so they can recharge the system.

Not sure what I'm going to do.

 

so then it's better to use 50/50 water/antifreeze instead of 80/20 with mostly water and a bottle of water wetter. I was thinking having more water in the mix would cool things better and the water wetter allows that sort of mix to be possible without corrosion. Seemed like the lesser evil to me

 

anytime you go FI on a NA car, you always have to heat wrap the AC lines, thats the first thing i did for my Z, im in texas...my Z is 62 degrees all day long

 

you guys only wrap the rubber lines right? not the metal AC line?

 

If you do go back to GRD, I'm pretty sure they will recharge it for you as well. It's not that expensive to get that done.

 

I didn't say that 50/50 was optimal for cooling. About the furthest you'd want to go in a street car is 85/15 with NO water wetter. The 15% coolant will prevent corrosion. Obviously the ultimate is 100% water...but it's not really feasible in a street driven car.

Water wetter is a seperate issue from coolant/water mix....water wetter affects how the liquid absorbs heat.

 

Bri, have a mechanic (doesnt have to be the dealer) hook up an AC pressure gauge/filler to your high and low pressure AC lines. Pressure on the high pressure side should be about 250psi. At 398psi, the compressor will shut off, to protect the compressor from an overcharge. At 598psi (yikes), a pressure relief valve will burst on your compressor. Pressure on the high pressure line must be between 20psi and 398psi....too high or two low and the compressor will click off. Ideal is about 250-300psi.

If your can hear your AC compressor click on and off every time...then something else is probably to blame. But take it to a shop you trust, and have them do some more troubleshooting. Best of luck. Maybe your in cabin temp sensor is malfunctioning, as othes have suggested, or the outside air mixer is not working properly.

 

big bri,

interesting to hear that about water wetter.

It has been around for well over a decade, and this is the first time I have ever heard that it "repells" heat. Do you have some sort of tech article of this?

It was my understanding that WaterWetter lowers the surfaced tension of water, therefore allowing it to aid in heat transfer

what you are saying makes sense though too. If the water wetter was not allowing the water pull pull more heat out of the block/heads, your water temps would be lower, but your head temps would go up.

hmmmm............

 

QuadCam is correct - waterwetter works by lowering the surface tension of the liquid, allowing less localized boiling at hotspots. when the coolant boils, the air acts as an insulator, impeding heat transfer. the lower surface tension makes any air bubbles caused by boiling to collapse much more quickly, keeping more coolant medium in contact with the hotspots for longer.

redline's tech paper on the subject is here:

http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

water wetter works, and works well. if you're looking for max cooling, straight water (use *DISTILLED* water) with water wetter works the best. most cooling systems however require some glycol-based coolant to act as both a corrosion inhibitor and a lubricant for the water pump. depending on your weather conditions (how cold is it in the winter), an 85/15 water/glycol plus water wetter is a good combo. it will *NOT* prevent freezing in temps below 20 degrees. if you can stomach the maintenance, running an 85/15 mix (with WW) for three seasons, and 50/50 mix with water wetter in winter is probably the best compromise.

ahm

ps it is *HIGHLY* recommended to only use distilled water in your cooling system. tap water contains minerals that will leave deposits, and eventually cause the water pump to fail.

 

amolaver,

good reading material!

 

just curious, but if water wetter was bad for the engine and trapped more heat into the metal by repelling the heat...wouldn't your oil temps rise if you used it?