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What Turbonetics Doesn't Tell You

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Old 08-01-2006 | 12:44 PM
  #21  
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Assuming your car is stock. Don't forget that if you have aftermarket headers installed, that the Turbonetics kit may not fit...as I found out. You would be better off utilizing the stock headers, or a very limited number of aftermarket headers that actually will fit.
(Alphawerks makes one that fits.)With an aftermarket set up you can spool up faster and be in the boost quicker.

This is purely optional. But then again, we don't know if $$$ is a factor. If not, then build the motor while you at it.
LOL
Old 08-01-2006 | 12:50 PM
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Oh Yeah, you may want to consult with the turbonetics owners forum or a friend with the kit installed to find out about installing the new upgraded parts that are not included/mentioned in the older installation manual.

Case in point, I recently installed the kit myself and was blessed with one extra piece of pipe after I thought I completed the install. Well, it's not mentioned or pictured in the manual. It turned out to be the overboost pipe, (rather important) which after consulting with several people, I found out exactly how to install it. I am no mechanic, but very handy. It still should be updated in the manual. Unfortunately, I think Turbonetics is so overwhelmed with getting these kits out, that they didn't stop to think that someone like myself might want to try the install as the directions indicate.
It would only take about 10 -15 minutes to make the appropriate changes in the install guide, but I guess they have bigger fish to fry. Just a word to the wise.
Old 08-01-2006 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Well your explanation needs more clarification. With just a Walbro 255 lph pump installed the fuel pressure jumps to 70+. HOWEVER Turbonetics has you modify the stock fuel pressure regulator when you install the kit to set your idle base pressure at 53-55 PSI. Under full boost the lowest fuel pressure I have logged is 46-48 PSI which is right on par with what it should be.
How do they get you to modify the stock regulator?
Old 08-01-2006 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mchapman
How do they get you to modify the stock regulator?
Check out this...

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/downlo...Nissan350Z.pdf
Old 08-01-2006 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks mate
Old 08-01-2006 | 04:54 PM
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Worst title for a thread, heh...

I'll tend to agree with the previous posts. The more small things you can take care at the time of the install, the better.
Old 08-01-2006 | 06:58 PM
  #27  
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If you have any questions during your installation feel free to give us a call, we've installed over 15 of the 350Z/G35 turbo kits and know them with our eyes closed.

One of the biggest problems with the kit is the A/C line. Be careful when relocating this line, they are easy to fatigue and/or break. Also, make sure the A/C line is properly supported and not too close to the turbo/exhaust piping. Many people do not install properly and have A/C leaks down the road.

Always double check the routing / placement of your hose clamps. We've seen sevearl people clock the clamps in a position that rub a hole in a part they shouldn't have been touching -- check the clamp near the throttle body before you close the hood so you do not put a dimple in the hood!

It is also EXTREMELY important to install a boost gauge, this will ensure you are not boosting over 8/9psi of boost which can cause engine damage.

To help aid installation and remove the possibility a crack in the block during heatup and cooldown, we made a nifty upgrade you may be interested in:

Oil Pan Spacer pre-tapped for Oil Line & Oil Gauge -

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...egory_Code=AAM

Stainless Braided Oil Line for leak-free Turbonetics Turbo kit installation -

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...egory_Code=AAM

Hope this helps,
Old 08-01-2006 | 07:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mike@Altered
If you have any questions during your installation feel free to give us a call, we've installed over 15 of the 350Z/G35 turbo kits and know them with our eyes closed.

One of the biggest problems with the kit is the A/C line. Be careful when relocating this line, they are easy to fatigue and/or break. Also, make sure the A/C line is properly supported and not too close to the turbo/exhaust piping. Many people do not install properly and have A/C leaks down the road.

Always double check the routing / placement of your hose clamps. We've seen sevearl people clock the clamps in a position that rub a hole in a part they shouldn't have been touching -- check the clamp near the throttle body before you close the hood so you do not put a dimple in the hood!

It is also EXTREMELY important to install a boost gauge, this will ensure you are not boosting over 8/9psi of boost which can cause engine damage.

To help aid installation and remove the possibility a crack in the block during heatup and cooldown, we made a nifty upgrade you may be interested in:

Oil Pan Spacer pre-tapped for Oil Line & Oil Gauge -

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...egory_Code=AAM

Stainless Braided Oil Line for leak-free Turbonetics Turbo kit installation -

http://www.alteredatmosphere.com/mm5...egory_Code=AAM

Hope this helps,

Should i look at getting the oil pan spacer as well. Ive got the block tapped with the vortech return line already which i can use with the turbonetics. Ive never had a leak so the only advantage for me now would be the extra oil capacity. Is the extra oil really that important?
Old 08-01-2006 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by freezeg35
Should i look at getting the oil pan spacer as well. Ive got the block tapped with the vortech return line already which i can use with the turbonetics. Ive never had a leak so the only advantage for me now would be the extra oil capacity. Is the extra oil really that important?
Its an added bonus. These motors are known to burn a lot of oil.

You just don't want to get a pre-tapped oil pan if you'd like to add oil capacity. I picked up the JWT spacer and will be installing it soon. I'll keep cycling oil through my tapped upper pan and the spacer will only be for the added 1qt of oil. From what I understand, it is more efficient for oil circulation to tap the upper pan anyway, so all should be well.
Old 08-01-2006 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by taurran
Its an added bonus. These motors are known to burn a lot of oil.

You just don't want to get a pre-tapped oil pan if you'd like to add oil capacity. I picked up the JWT spacer and will be installing it soon. I'll keep cycling oil through my tapped upper pan and the spacer will only be for the added 1qt of oil. From what I understand, it is more efficient for oil circulation to tap the upper pan anyway, so all should be well.
When you say upper pan do you mean where vortech shows in the instructions to tap, or where turbonetics shows where to tap.
Or are both places considered the upper pan?

Good idea on the spacer, adding it to the list with turbo blanket, extra wrap..... What about sparkplugs, ive got ngk irridium 1 step colder, i will replace them upon install, should i stay with the same ones?
Thanks.
Old 08-01-2006 | 08:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by freezeg35
When you say upper pan do you mean where vortech shows in the instructions to tap, or where turbonetics shows where to tap.
Or are both places considered the upper pan?

Good idea on the spacer, adding it to the list with turbo blanket, extra wrap..... What about sparkplugs, ive got ngk irridium 1 step colder, i will replace them upon install, should i stay with the same ones?
Thanks.
If your car already has the tapped area for the Vortech then you are fine. In that case you can just get the JWT pan spacer which is only $99 shipped and adds the same 1 qt extra capacity.
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