Looking for people who have installed the ST kit from Turbonetics who can tell me what needs to be done in addition to what comes with the kit. Anything from the extra hose clamps to the new clutch you put in. Even if the extras aren't *required* but recommended please post. I'm trying to get together an out-the-door estimate of what I'll need to pay to get the kit on and running properly.

Also, what tuning needs to be done afterward? Since there is no engine management or boost controller, I don't see what could be adjusted.

My friend is doing the install for me. I've already figured in his dinner and case of beer.

 

The only things I was add to the kit are some Thermotec heat wrap for the exhaust pipes and a stainless braided clutch line. Thats about it. As for EMS just because there is no PIGGYBACK EMS doesn't mean the car is not being tuned for boost. Thats the whole point of the reflash.

 

I guess my question should have been, if I take the car to be dyno'd would I really be able to tune anything? Doesn't the reflashed ECU handle that on its own?

 

Yes it does. And no you couldn't unless the dyno shop you go to has the Tectom hardware. Theres only like 3 people in the US with that.

 

So then the only reason to have it "tuned" after the install would be to ensure that the kit is operating within a safe range?

And of course to get a print-out of the graph for bragging rights.

 

Correct, you just need to dyno to verify your AFR is good and safe and get your power numbers to ensure the install is solid.

 

Any need to replace the clutch?

 

Not immediately no. I kept my stock one until I hit 45,000 miles on the car and 25,000 miles with the turbo kit.

 

First off bad thread title IMO. If your running this kit on an otherwise stock car it will work great. Just know as you mod the car more (exhaust, plenum, pullies) the tune could potentially be off. Many run bolt-ons with no worries though. Besides what MIA said Id recommend a wideband in the car to monitor and a boost guage, I also spent $100 extra to add an oil pan spacer so I didnt have to tap the block for the return and to add 1 more QT of oil. Enjoy your kit...

 

spark plugs.....1 step cooler (6 instead of 5)

 

Wrap your ac lines, wrap your turbo manifold, wrap all pipes and definetly get an amosphere dump. You are done.

 

Heh, yes I guess it could be misleading. Sorry 'bout that.

I'm planning to install the Innovate WB before the kit arrives and I will be adding Defi-Link Meter BF gauges for PSI and EGT later.

Good idea about the oil pan spacer. I wasn't too thrilled about tapping into the block and that's a great way around it.

 

I am about to get the dump tube on my TN kit, if you have it show us a picture. Sorry to hijack the thread, but I really want to see one on a evolution wastegate!!!

Back to the thread, you need a boost gauge, period no questions about it, a wideband for safety purposes and an EGT gauge. And some would argue a fuel pressure gauge due to the car not having a return fuel system. I would also highly recommend a turbo timer as well!

When you get ready for more power:
Lightweight clutch/flywheel
Return Fuel system
At least 440 cc injectors depending on power level you want to be at
EMS of some sort, I personally like UTEC
An exhaust
Fat tire in the back to lay down some serious
And last but not least a really good tune.

 

Nice - this is the kind of stuff I was looking for. The things that can easily add up.

Maybe OT as well, but how does a return fuel system provide added safety for the car? I'm not clear about what it does to be honest.

 

the return fuel system will allow you to have a more normal fuel pressure curve...if that makes sense.

with a walbro in-tank, you'll have excessively high fuel pressures at idle (around 80 psi). then as you climb the rpms and up in boost, your fuel pressure will decline, probably back to a stock-like 50 psi at full boost up around 6000 rpms.

with a return syste, you be able to set you base fuel pressure to stock levels. plus, use a rising rate fpr that adds 1psi of fuel pressure per 1psi of boost to compensate for increased pressure at the tip of the injector. and of course, the return system gives a return line to recirculate the excess fuel in the system.

this is how it was explained to me.....

 

Well your explanation needs more clarification. With just a Walbro 255 lph pump installed the fuel pressure jumps to 70+. HOWEVER Turbonetics has you modify the stock fuel pressure regulator when you install the kit to set your idle base pressure at 53-55 PSI. Under full boost the lowest fuel pressure I have logged is 46-48 PSI which is right on par with what it should be.

 

I thought turbonetics comes with plenty of heat wrapping materials. Is it not enough or not good enough?? And I am very curious to know why a stainless braided clutch line would be required.

 

Pretty sure it's only a saftey recommendation. I haven't looked at where the clutch line runs, but I'm going to assume it's near enough to the exhaust that it could suffer heat damage over time.

 

Theres nothing wrong with more heat wrap in a turbo car. As for the clutch line its mainly an issue if you track the car. Several F/I owners even some N/A owners with headers have had their clutch fluid boil on them.

 

if you're going to do much drag racing, you'll wear your clutch out pretty quickly. i recommend getting a JWT clutch (about $400) at the same time. also agree with the gauges recommended above, zeitronix does it all for you. zeitronix.com.