If you need a stocker until you get on your feet mine is at sonics. I have the manifold off right now and trying to determine if this is a good time to go back stock or stickl with what I got.

But any way if you need to borrow a plenum to get you on your feet I have a spare one. Thats if you decide to take off that plastic peice and take a look. Mine had a crap load of oil in it and didnt smoke. You would have a real BIG problem if you were passin that much oil through your intake. Can you say 2 stroke.

Is the TN a water/oil cooled or just oil? When I had a kinked line it pushed oil out the back of the seal into the hot side of the turbo. LOTS of white smoke. I have the true duals so it wass real easy to see what went wrong. One side smoke the other nothing just messed with lines. Ding a lite went on.

Other than this little rambeling not much else I can say to help. Feal your pain man.

 

I noticed my return line was kinked a little when I pulled my turbo off. I fixed it when I put it back in. I don't know if that was the reason that the turbo blew a seal or not. But its fixed now.

 

Those return lines leave much to be desired ---Next time I will go with well routed SS braided, teflon innertube line with fittings.

Such a crucially important line made out of HiTemp rubber is stupid

 

My "stupid" high temp rubber line has lasted over 45k miles..

 

That is VERY possible...

 

I roasted through my return line within a week of having the kit due to it being routed a little off. We just threw it up on the lift and replaced it with a really nice braided and coated line and all's been well since.

Not really a problem with the line, just one of the common issus with running a turbo kit. Upgrading the small stuff like that is what makes a good setup great.

 

My return line has been leak free it's entire life. It's not difficult to make sure the line isn't kinked at all.

My suggestion is to always wait to do the return line cutting until the VERY END when all piping is in place, so you can route it properly.

 

 

I apologize for insulting the intelligence of ur rubber line and I respect ur talents, which a small part of, is inspecting and maintaining a vehicle, far exceding the average owner. If we lived in a perfect world, that would be cool --- We dont though, and I felt it was cheap insurance to --- especially, self installers----Fools that we are, to use a material that may reduce the risk of catastrafic engine failure.

 

While I agree that maintenance and upkeep of your system is vital to reliability I don't think it exceeds the average owner. I simple request to the lube tech changing your oil to check the lines is not out of the question. After all the lines lead right to the area he works in. And oil leak above the pan return will leave evidence in the form of oil drips or residue along the length of the line. The primary reason most companies choose to use high temp rubber lines is that they can easily be trimmed. The mediocre mechanic installing this or any kit can easily grab a pair of snips and trim the line to the size needed for his specific car and install. Lets be honest not everyone can route the lines the same way. Other modification on the car and different oil pans, and even install methods can drastically alter the required length of the oil return line. Having a person cut a rubber hose to length requires far less skill and knowledge then having someone assemble a stainless braided hose after altering it to its appropriate length. Sure if you can be sure that EVERY return line will be the EXACT same length then a pre-made stainless braided teflon core line is the way to go. When it comes to brake lines, or water cooling and oil feed lines you can even have some excess in it for just that purpose only because the fluid in those lines are under pressure. But on a return line it is critical that the line has no kinks, "uphill" sections, or some other tomfoolery that would result in the oil not being able to free fall from gravity alone into the pan.

 

Well said ---fortunetly I keep the Aeroquip Hose on hand with the appropiate hand installed fittings as a rule. I didnt have any last time.
My main reason for mentioning it, was that I swear by the stuff and have seen situations where the hose looks fine, but has swelled internally due to heat and chemical reaction to the oil, causing it to restrict BADLY, much like a brake line will do. Main thing though is as u said, Its just dammed important to chk it periodically.

 

Absolutely some Aeroquip stuff would be more reliable in the long run. Unfortunately not everyone is as gifted and knowlesdgeable as you. As you already know assembling stainless lines is not exactly common knowledge. Even around car guys that have been in the scene for a while. Hell I didn't learn how to assemble my own braided line until just a couple years ago. And I've been messing with cars for many years. Its one of those things people either take for granted or are not interested in learning as there are no less then 10 hose shops in a major city that could do this for next to nothing. I think theres 15 in my immediate area. I wish there was still auto shop in schools where classes in some of this stuff were taught.

 

Yeah, I'll actually agree that the hose that comes with the kit is kinda floppy and weak. I'm glad we ended up going with a stouter braided return line to keep it from ever kinking or burning again.

 

I've got a good lenght of Aeroquip I could use, but I dread getting the stock line off the outlet of the turbo while it's all in there, haha. That's a project for when the built motor goes in (I'm going stainless braided in that case anyways.

 

I just bought my line steel braided line. I have a small leak I have not been able to stop.

 

There just isnt -----I got into a Looong,grueling thread suggesting a Speedi-Sleeve to repair a grooved pulley prob that a guy had. I get a headache thinking about it---It JUST wasnt sinking in. Another said he was going to his Machine Shop instructor to get a better understanding. The Guy never heard of them !
Most the guys I talk to out of the Tech Schools, Have a little understanding of Diagnostics, but havent a clue as to how an engine works ---Not a clue.

The best wrenchers are those that started as soon as they could hold one. And this Forum helps a lot of guys that werent so lucky.
I show pity on Noobs with their "Squeeky" Brakes and " How should I shift my MT ' questions

 

LMAO I completely agree. My dad put me to work changing the oil on my families cars at 11-12. By 14 it was brake pads (and shoes ) plugs, wires, caps, rotors, rebuilding carbs, etc. I never really thought anything of it to be honest. Then one Thanksgiving I go the desert with a buddy to go off roading. He leaves his stereo on too long and it dies. Luckily he just happened to still have his stock battery in his tool box. I told him just replace it (battery was so dead it wouldn't crank at all even after a full charge cycle). I tell him no biggie just change it. I almost passed out when he told me he had no idea how to do that. Two days later the brake line comes loose from his caliper. I pull out a 17mm (Dodge) and tell him to tighten it back up. He looks at me very funny and says, which way do I turn this... It was only after that I realized that I was lucky my dad taught me the stuff he did. I'm not knocking people that don't know much about cars. But I do think that we should (a) be educating young adults on maintenance at the least as 70% of them will buy some kind of sports car or pseudo sports car (either a Z, Evo, or WRX these days) and when something breaks or they need to do some work they will have some idea of what to do. And (b) if someone plans to invest in a sports car and starts performing large upgrades like turbo kits they should expect that they need to learn something about what they are putting on the car and how to maintain it. I think knowledge of what you are putting on your car goes a long way. Not everyone needs to be an engineer. But knowing the principles and operation of what you have will make maintenance cheaper and could prevent a lot of un necessary issues. End of rant...

 

Thats funny ---reminded me ---In Daytona when I moved there ------I had a roomate that just graduated from Emory-Riddle ( Top ? Helecopter,airplane Tech Schools ) He asked me to show him how to build the motor in his 750/4 Honda MC---I gave him a task ---Take off the Head, I heard Grunting---He busted off 4 head bolts. Righty titey Dude !!!
But one of the best --when I was 12 also ---I talked my Grandad into letting me rebuilt one of his truck motors---Would have been great if I hadnt left 2 sockets in there.
I guess best yet was at 10 ----Looking for a gas leak in the old Mans Snowmobile with a Bic. Oh well ---Moving right along

 

LOL all this seems so familiar...