PE TT Water cooled Turbos
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
Let me comment on that. What you are saying makes logical sense. However, my oil temps did drop 3-6 deg C after installing the water cooling, and by water temps rose by about 2-4 deg C or so, like i posted before. This supports the idea that there is some, albeit minor, heat removal during engine's operation. Also, there are other factors involved tat would contribute to oil temps. It is a fact that upgrading the radiator lowers oil temps as well, it did so in my case pretty considerably. It also states so in the corky bell book. So the APS that saw higher oil temps could have been easily a function of poor water cooling.
As far as problems with the turbos, I had to replace my d-side turbo because of a bent shaft, which is very much a symptom of hot bearings, from what my research has revealed. The car was absolutely asymptomatic, more over, just removing the turbo and inspect the impeller and the bearing play did not reveal a problem, only when you try to spin the impeller by hand, then you'd see an obvious and unmistakable hesitation at every 360 deg of rotation. Who knows, maybe this hadn't much to do with the water cooling, but maybe it did.
As far as problems with the turbos, I had to replace my d-side turbo because of a bent shaft, which is very much a symptom of hot bearings, from what my research has revealed. The car was absolutely asymptomatic, more over, just removing the turbo and inspect the impeller and the bearing play did not reveal a problem, only when you try to spin the impeller by hand, then you'd see an obvious and unmistakable hesitation at every 360 deg of rotation. Who knows, maybe this hadn't much to do with the water cooling, but maybe it did.
I also think that IHI designed a water cooling jacket for a reason, like you do. I think that the water cooling can only help extend the life of the turbo, and would certainly do no harm.
Gurgen, I like to think of you as the "mad scientist" of the PE kit.
Gringott you took my post wrong I'm not knocking the kit. But for the price I think they should have included the lines. Like gurgen said IMO they IHI designed the turbos for water cooling and it should have been included.
Originally Posted by captj3
Gringott you took my post wrong I'm not knocking the kit. But for the price I think they should have included the lines. Like gurgen said IMO they IHI designed the turbos for water cooling and it should have been included.
Hahah.... I am mad to put up with it that's for sure. thanks....
Gringo, you are right....water cooling allows to essentailly prevent the the problem of oil coking, which is a huge problem. With the watercooled turbos, you technically do not need a turbo timer at all, as the temperature is transferred to the water very very efficiently and removed, without the temps going over the coking temp threshold (or good measure, however, I do still run the car for 60 seconds after shutting off, instead of at least 2.5-3 minutes (since i laready have the timer installed)). This is what allows the bb turbos to last as long as they do. I do not know of anyone with BB turbos that were probably water cooled that had to be overhauled, with the exception of one that i know of that was bad from the get go, and it was promptly replaced by the supplier. However, there are a few Greddy kit turbos (the mitsu's) that had tobe rebuild when they were taken off and inspected between engine rebuilds, many of these people that encountered this good friends of mine.
as far the kit: With the shortcomings of the kit in mind, it still gives you something that no toehr kit gives, the pe1420 turbos. These turbos have a very broad efficiency characteristic, as opposed to high PR efficiency. I.e. the compressor maps are wider rather than taller, which provides a flatter torque response (at least in theory).
Gringo, you are right....water cooling allows to essentailly prevent the the problem of oil coking, which is a huge problem. With the watercooled turbos, you technically do not need a turbo timer at all, as the temperature is transferred to the water very very efficiently and removed, without the temps going over the coking temp threshold (or good measure, however, I do still run the car for 60 seconds after shutting off, instead of at least 2.5-3 minutes (since i laready have the timer installed)). This is what allows the bb turbos to last as long as they do. I do not know of anyone with BB turbos that were probably water cooled that had to be overhauled, with the exception of one that i know of that was bad from the get go, and it was promptly replaced by the supplier. However, there are a few Greddy kit turbos (the mitsu's) that had tobe rebuild when they were taken off and inspected between engine rebuilds, many of these people that encountered this good friends of mine.
as far the kit: With the shortcomings of the kit in mind, it still gives you something that no toehr kit gives, the pe1420 turbos. These turbos have a very broad efficiency characteristic, as opposed to high PR efficiency. I.e. the compressor maps are wider rather than taller, which provides a flatter torque response (at least in theory).
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
Let me comment on that. What you are saying makes logical sense. However, my oil temps did drop 3-6 deg C after installing the watercooling, and by water temps rose by about 2-4 deg C or so, like i posted before. This supports the idea that there is some, albeit minor, heat removal during engine's operation. Also, there are other factors involved tat would contribute to oil temps. It is a fact taht upgrading the radiator lowers oil temps as well, it did so in my case pretty considerably. It also states so in the corky bell book. So the APS that saw higher oil temps could have been easily a function of poor water cooling.
As far as problems with the turbos, I had to replace my d-side turbo because of a bent shaft, which is very much a symptom of hot bearings, from what my research has revealed. The car was absolutely asymtomatic, more over, just removing the turbo and inspect the impeller and the bearing play did not reveal a problem, only when you try to spin the impeller by hand, then you'd see an obvious and unmistakeable hesitation at evry 360 deg of rotation. Who knows, maybe this hadn'tmuch to do with the water cooling, but maybe it did.
As far as problems with the turbos, I had to replace my d-side turbo because of a bent shaft, which is very much a symptom of hot bearings, from what my research has revealed. The car was absolutely asymtomatic, more over, just removing the turbo and inspect the impeller and the bearing play did not reveal a problem, only when you try to spin the impeller by hand, then you'd see an obvious and unmistakeable hesitation at evry 360 deg of rotation. Who knows, maybe this hadn'tmuch to do with the water cooling, but maybe it did.
Thanks
Cheers Amy
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Originally Posted by AmyCroft
Gurgen, In the above discription of the "Bent Turbo Shaft" I don't think you made it clear to the "Readers" the sequence of event's. Not all members have followed the "Story Line". One might assume that the failure was with water cooling. Please clarify the steps and mods you have added to make the VQTT more robust.
Thanks
Cheers Amy
- 
Thanks
Cheers Amy
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The bent shaft was indeed very likely due to water cooling...although it could have been due to inadequate turbo-timer cool down (didn't own one in the beginning) from when i originally installed the kit. I do not think it has anything to do with teh engine swaps.
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
John,
The bent shaft was indeed very likely due to water cooling...although it could have been due to inadequate turbo-timer cool down (didn't own one in the beginning) from when i originally installed the kit. I do not think it has anything to do with teh engine swaps.
The bent shaft was indeed very likely due to water cooling...although it could have been due to inadequate turbo-timer cool down (didn't own one in the beginning) from when i originally installed the kit. I do not think it has anything to do with teh engine swaps.
The turbo timer method of running the engine a few minutes at idle to prevent "Coking" is suposedly a decent way to prevent the "Coking".
In one of my 1981 ZXT's I had a very interesting method. I would shut the car off, and a five minute timer provided oil via an electric pump to cool the turbo down. That T3 has lasted 110,000 miles to date. ( Yes it's loose ) - Still running but with a manual cooldown. I'd add a turbo timer on the next (fourth) T3.
Car has 200,000 total.. That's the Silver one. The White ZXT car only has 95,000 total, but on the original turbo. I wish we had water cooling on those.
Cheers Amy
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I do not have the waterlines hooked up as well.
Although I am not high boosting my car, I do not doubt that installing them would help in increasing the longevity of the turbos.
Juz that I'm kinda lazy about ordering the parts from seperate vendors and piecing them altogether..something wrong is bound to happen when you do it this way worse when you are mail ordering the parts..
In there any complete kit from PE we can buy or can we use the APS water lines as a kit complete with all the bolts, joints connectors etc?
Although I am not high boosting my car, I do not doubt that installing them would help in increasing the longevity of the turbos.
Juz that I'm kinda lazy about ordering the parts from seperate vendors and piecing them altogether..something wrong is bound to happen when you do it this way worse when you are mail ordering the parts..
In there any complete kit from PE we can buy or can we use the APS water lines as a kit complete with all the bolts, joints connectors etc?
when i had my PE-tt gtm installed waterlines for my kit guys u can check with them for parts number ..etc if u would like to get your waterlines.
link
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...1-500rwhp.html
link
https://my350z.com/forum/shop-builds...1-500rwhp.html
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