im having a hard time sourcing the aps fuel system can someone give me a link?

thanx

-B-

 

GT Motorports has it I think.

 

Ditch it & get this: Blitz SBC i-D

Ditch Emanage and get the UTEC.

Just my

Everything else looks good.

 

LINK

 

Thanx for the source Zivman. Im going to deff look into that Fuel system and put some numbers together to see if its worth it.

-B-

 

If you are not going over 500-550 rwhp, you can get the CJM or AAM S1 fuel system for under $1000, a intank pump for under 100, and the same injectors as the APS kit for $370 (entire set of 6), and you will maintain the higher quality factory pump assembly with functional surge tank and saddle tank siphon, you will have adjustable fuel pressure since they are based on the aeromotive regulator, and they both come with a small gauge for setting pressure. But if you need more fuel then a single pump can deliver, then the APS or AAM S2 is your only option right now anyway.

The injectors are right here, top row on the right:

http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_SetsMODS.asp

Any of the fuel systems are available thru almost all the site sponsors.

 

+1, SBC i-D is the best boost controller I have used. You can set it up so that boost raises as you go faster also, if you get the additional power meter id for it. The HKS EVC5 is the nicest looking controller and works just as well, but it does NOT support variable boost, and it also doesnt come in PSI reading anymore.

 

as for the oil pan, dont waste your money. If the Greddy kit you bought comes with the newer cast aluminum Greddy oil pan, you are already set. If you want increased oil capacity, just get an oil cooler kit since thats a good idea anyway. The pan upgrade does you no good, matter of fact it just makes oil changes messy.

Just order a couple feet of aeroquipt blue -10 hose to use on the returns, since the hose that greddy puts in the kit is junk.

 

Its definatly nothing personal at all, its just that the VQ35DE is a terrible first engine to build. Professionals will tell you that this engine is a pain in the *** to assemble.

If you want a built engine, my opinion would be to purchase one that is a fully assembled long block with all timing gear and covers installed... and then send yours back as a core. This would be the best solution if you are going to try and tackle the entire project on your own.

 

I would think a replacement oil pan is preffered to a spacer.

 

Why? All the oil pan does is increase oil capacity and maybe SLIGHTLY cool the oil via the finned bottom section. If he puts in an oil cooler it will have a MUCH more drastic affect on oil cooling. I bet if you check oil temps under track conditions from two cars with oil coolers one with and one without the vaunted APS and PE pans there would be ZERO discernable difference. The ONLY potential benefit to either of these pans is the baffling. And if thats what you are after the PE has baffles in a better setup than the APS pan anyways. Although I and several other high hp turbo cars have had NO issues without a pan spacer even under the most extreme track conditions. Reference the VRT crew. They have a dozen cars over 500 HP that track weekly with no baffled pan and no issues. In fact I can't think of a single person on this board who lost their motor due to oil starvation as a result of lack of baffling N/A or turbo...

 

I am not arguing that an oil cooler is more beneficial. I run one on my car. What I am saying is I preffer a full replacement oil pan to tapping the cast pan or running a spacer for the returns.

some sort of returns are needed, and I am saying the replacement pan is the preffered method. If want to argue about oil starvation and baffles, go ahead

 

+1

 

Damn. This is just what I didnt want to hear LOL! Good arguments coming from both sides of the debate about the fuel return and oil pan stuff.

Maybe I can tell you guys what my plans are with the car and you guys can help guide me towards the best approach.

This car IS NOT going to be driven much at all. Probably a few times a week to and around town and on the weekends for meets, cruises, shows etc.

I want to be able to take her on fairly long cruises around Socal with the club etc and NOT have to worry about anything going wrong with heat etc. I dont know much about the problems with LOOONG drives with turbos etc, but i heard some people say that allot of times thhe guys with turbos dont come on cruises cuz they are worried about their turbos???....

I dont track the car much at all right now but i wouldnt mind doing track sometimes. i dont think im going to get real into track as id rather drive the car on the street or something plus im not THAT into track.

I just want a car that can be boosted for 550hp-ish with maybe a potential to go higher if i choose to in the future but most likely 550 is going to be fine with me for a looooong time.

ALSO about the oil pan.. the kit im getting is coming with an ARC oil pan... ??? iono if this is good or bad.

<discuss?>



-B-

 

pics of the arc pan? never seen one.

 

Some of the options on your list you are being sold are not needed..

 

ARC pan:



This brand new high capacity aluminum oil pan from ARC is the perfect compliment for those running forced induction of for those planning on lots of track time. Increased oil capacity by 1 liter, and includes special baffles making it perfect for road or track use. especially beneficial to those with forced induction setups.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/02-03...spagenameZWDVW

This oil pan looks identical to the power enterprise one.

 

wow those "special" baffles look great - can't even see them. I'm sure they keep lots of oil from getting away from the oil pickup

 

Yes there aren't any ridged baffles inside the central area that can be seen which leads me to believe that the little "compartment" on the side has baffling in it. I don't have this pan though so I have no idea. Just posted pics at phunk's request.