Just doing my oil change and forgot the tq specs completely on the drain plug on my APS oil pan.. Help anyone??

 

I do mine till it's finger tight, then about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Basically just enough to feel the copper washer start to crush. You replaced the washer right?

 

Which crush washer are u using? I didn't think the OEM would work because the APS drain plug looks bigger.

 

Right, you'll need to take the plug up to the auto parts store and find the right size, and buy like 10 of them while you're there, lol.

 

OH man!

Well, I went and started to tq down the plug when it wont tighten!!! it just keeps spinning and I swear I hardly used any force to strip it. So I try to loosen it and it just spins there!!!!!! I left it and filled it back with oil started for a little and let it idle no leaks. So I guess I'm screwed until the next 3K comes up and I have to remove the plug to change the oil.

How could I have caused damage when I hardly tq'd it down???

 

You actually torque the oil pan plug???

 

Not really, service manual calls for 25ft-lbs on the stock pan.

 

I always just did it up hand tight, then maybe half a turn. Never heard of anyone actually torquing down drain plugs, just use your discression to make sure it isnt too tight.

 

I always turn mine just past hand tight, and I've yet to replace the copper washer. No leaks to date.

You very well could have stripped the threads out of the pan. Though you'd have to torque it pretty good to do that.

If that's the case you have a couple options when your next oil change comes around. If you can get the drain bolt out then you could rethread the hole a little larger and use a different bolt. If that doesn't work, you might have to replace the APS oil pan.

 

although I don't highly recommend this, a cheap last solution is a rubber oil pan drain plug you can get from Autozone.

it fits snug and expands as you tighten the screw in the middle. I used this on my beater and it worked like a charm. But on the Z, I'd probably first try to rethread and use a larger drain bolt.

 

Thanks guys, we'll see what happens next time around.

 

You may have cross-threaded it or something. Plus, you probably shouldn't use the factory torque spec; the OEM pan is steel and the APS is aluminum.

 

I firm tug with a wrench is all I do. Those plugs have never leaked......wish Nissan made a rear main seal like that.

 

sorry for bringing up an old thread, i would just like to know what happened after you changed your oil the next time? I have the same problem.

 

Wow, memories... yea man you need to be very gentle on this pan. I ended up removing the plug and getting it re-tapped with pipe threads, no problems since.

Don't feel bad, me and you are the only ones to come out and mention our mistake. I know about 10 other owners who also stripped the pan.

Good luck.

 

Yeah I did the same thing with mine.... What plug did u end up using after re-tapping it ?

 

well i fixed mine today, i got a self tapping 1/2" double oversized plug from NAPA, cut its own threads, cleaned out the shavings, nice thick bead of red high temp rtv silicone gasket maker on the pan. Its setting up as we speak, tomorrow after noon hopefully it won't leak when i fill it with oil.

 

Good job, I used one of those hex plugs to screw into the pan. I usually put some mild thread selant on the plug after every oil change for reassurance.

 

If the plug keeps spinning did you have to pull the pan to get the bolt out? Mine just stripped, it keeps spinning