HKS 9.0:1 Ratio; redline @ 7200 RPM
09-01-2006, 12:06 PM
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HKS 9.0:1 Ratio; redline @ 7200 RPM
The new HKS pistons an rods with metal gasket seem to be the way to go! Its all factory weight and settings which mean no balancing required; just install, seal your block up, an hit the dyno!
http://www.i-m-racing.com/hksfopicorod.html
... I just thought i would post this incase there was anyone who had not known about it. This will be my next build in 2007.
http://www.i-m-racing.com/hksfopicorod.html
... I just thought i would post this incase there was anyone who had not known about it. This will be my next build in 2007.
09-01-2006, 12:13 PM
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...yea, so very true indeed! but never the less, thats money saved on balancing to pay for the springs an fittings replaced.... still a golden deal never-the-less!
HP numbers would be based on your cars upgrades from there after installation of this HKS set up. I would assume that its based on whether or not someone would have fuel work, plus forced induction, proper cooling, and of course a well programmed management system to see numbers in the 6 and 700 range without fear of destroying the block.... it only makes sense being that the block is not cast iron and this being purely an assumption. remember though... 9.0:1 ratio leaves plenty room to turn up the boost with the aforementioned upgrades!
As for me... once fuel return has been installed; ill be in the 500hp range.... but i want the block to be capable of handeling more so that i am running well under potential for a safer block...
Just my analyzation of course... there are far more Z-goers on here that would know better.
HP numbers would be based on your cars upgrades from there after installation of this HKS set up. I would assume that its based on whether or not someone would have fuel work, plus forced induction, proper cooling, and of course a well programmed management system to see numbers in the 6 and 700 range without fear of destroying the block.... it only makes sense being that the block is not cast iron and this being purely an assumption. remember though... 9.0:1 ratio leaves plenty room to turn up the boost with the aforementioned upgrades!
As for me... once fuel return has been installed; ill be in the 500hp range.... but i want the block to be capable of handeling more so that i am running well under potential for a safer block...
Just my analyzation of course... there are far more Z-goers on here that would know better.
Last edited by Three5oZee; 09-01-2006 at 12:18 PM.
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09-01-2006, 03:17 PM
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Damn... there is honestly no reason to be at 7 grand on a vq engine. I street drift when i can and race mostly cobras and some prosches... I never touch anything past 5500 to 6 grand. There really is no reason to unless your topping out in 6 gear for a top speed clocking.
This is based on my block. Remember these arent Honda's or motorcycles ... you dont need to take it up there.... and for a turbo engine hitting 7 grand for a redline....on a consistant basis and know that your not hurting the engine is a vote of confidence for me!
This is based on my block. Remember these arent Honda's or motorcycles ... you dont need to take it up there.... and for a turbo engine hitting 7 grand for a redline....on a consistant basis and know that your not hurting the engine is a vote of confidence for me!
09-01-2006, 05:41 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Three5oZee
Damn... there is honestly no reason to be at 7 grand on a vq engine. I street drift when i can and race mostly cobras and some prosches... I never touch anything past 5500 to 6 grand. There really is no reason to unless your topping out in 6 gear for a top speed clocking.
This is based on my block. Remember these arent Honda's or motorcycles ... you dont need to take it up there.... and for a turbo engine hitting 7 grand for a redline....on a consistant basis and know that your not hurting the engine is a vote of confidence for me!
This is based on my block. Remember these arent Honda's or motorcycles ... you dont need to take it up there.... and for a turbo engine hitting 7 grand for a redline....on a consistant basis and know that your not hurting the engine is a vote of confidence for me!
09-02-2006, 02:39 AM
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im at 9.5lbs boost... 3 inch pipe single... ssr engineering intake manifold and a greddy piggy bak prgrammed on top... Im getting great results right now, and NO, i don tlose a lot. In fact; I havent lost in a while.... and for your info... i destroy my boys 2004 Cobra with exhaust work only. I beat his *** last night so many times that started missing gears tryn to stay with me untill he gave up. an yes...he knows how to drive. As do I!
Dont be so quick to critisize someone. Its simply equasions that make individual Z's run well. My set up is very strong!... once i pop in my 4 inch pipe all the way bak.. get my koyo radiator and drop my plugs in as well as getting my larger poundage spring for my wastegate.... im taken it up to 10.5lbs...an im not moven it from there untill i get my fuel return. I discovered my cars best shift points in mid boost.... between 4500 and 5grand.... and it moves like a demon!
Dont be so quick to critisize someone. Its simply equasions that make individual Z's run well. My set up is very strong!... once i pop in my 4 inch pipe all the way bak.. get my koyo radiator and drop my plugs in as well as getting my larger poundage spring for my wastegate.... im taken it up to 10.5lbs...an im not moven it from there untill i get my fuel return. I discovered my cars best shift points in mid boost.... between 4500 and 5grand.... and it moves like a demon!
09-02-2006, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Three5oZee
im at 9.5lbs boost... 3 inch pipe single... ssr engineering intake manifold and a greddy piggy bak prgrammed on top... Im getting great results right now, and NO, i don tlose a lot. In fact; I havent lost in a while.... and for your info... i destroy my boys 2004 Cobra with exhaust work only. I beat his *** last night so many times that started missing gears tryn to stay with me untill he gave up. an yes...he knows how to drive. As do I!
Dont be so quick to critisize someone. Its simply equasions that make individual Z's run well. My set up is very strong!... once i pop in my 4 inch pipe all the way bak.. get my koyo radiator and drop my plugs in as well as getting my larger poundage spring for my wastegate.... im taken it up to 10.5lbs...an im not moven it from there untill i get my fuel return. I discovered my cars best shift points in mid boost.... between 4500 and 5grand.... and it moves like a demon!
Dont be so quick to critisize someone. Its simply equasions that make individual Z's run well. My set up is very strong!... once i pop in my 4 inch pipe all the way bak.. get my koyo radiator and drop my plugs in as well as getting my larger poundage spring for my wastegate.... im taken it up to 10.5lbs...an im not moven it from there untill i get my fuel return. I discovered my cars best shift points in mid boost.... between 4500 and 5grand.... and it moves like a demon!
And, about those HKS rods/pistons... you can get much better for the price, as stated before. Those look like a joke to me anyway. I wouldn't be surprised if they took some stock rods, cryo treated them, and stamped HKS on the side.
Last edited by taurran; 09-02-2006 at 09:12 AM.
09-02-2006, 10:38 AM
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lol @ the dumbest question on the thread.....
Anyway.... if SFR made my manifold or SSR made it... im not really concerned with that anymore. It performs really well now.
...an yea.. I hope i dont end up leaving my rods all over the place hahahha. Its performing really well like i said now. The stock block can handle the pressure. You notice some can take their blocks to the limit an some are rebuilding... I dunno.. maybe mine is on it last leg... maybe not. I am a firm believer its all about how you break in your Z upon first purchase. I bought mine and it had 115 miles on it. I beat the **** outta my car everyday up to about 5 grand. Never had an issue. After that...the throttle response was sick and it drove like a dream.
like i said... I hope i dont lose my rods, but hey i guess you neer know sometimes.
that hks set up looks pretty reliable to me. I mean we wont know the true statistics untill someone pops those things in their car. I know i wont be the first hahahahahahah....
Anyway.... if SFR made my manifold or SSR made it... im not really concerned with that anymore. It performs really well now.
...an yea.. I hope i dont end up leaving my rods all over the place hahahha. Its performing really well like i said now. The stock block can handle the pressure. You notice some can take their blocks to the limit an some are rebuilding... I dunno.. maybe mine is on it last leg... maybe not. I am a firm believer its all about how you break in your Z upon first purchase. I bought mine and it had 115 miles on it. I beat the **** outta my car everyday up to about 5 grand. Never had an issue. After that...the throttle response was sick and it drove like a dream.
like i said... I hope i dont lose my rods, but hey i guess you neer know sometimes.
that hks set up looks pretty reliable to me. I mean we wont know the true statistics untill someone pops those things in their car. I know i wont be the first hahahahahahah....
09-03-2006, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by chimmike
if you rev to 7100rpm the stock rod bolts will give out within a matter of hours, according to JWT's data.
The HKS setup is not particularly expensive for what it is (with the consideration that no balancing is required, which can get pricey depending on what manufacturer components you use for your own build). I love how everyone is always an expert.....the rods are made by one of the top shelf rod manufacturers in the world. They are a far cry from a stock rod. As for cryo treating a stock rod, actually a proper race prep job on a stock rod coupled with ARP hardware would enable it to rival many of the aftermarket rods on the market.
They look like a joke? You guys seriously need to do some research before you post your opiinions on what is junk and what is good. I suspect many wouldn't know the difference, as they simply go by what they "think" they know. It is an I beam rod - do you understand what that means? It is a different type of rod design from A beam and H beam, and is designed for a specific use. Would this be the setup I use for 1000 whp? No. But i wouldn't use a beefy H beam for 450 whp either.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-03-2006 at 05:57 AM.
09-03-2006, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
They are completely wrong.
The HKS setup is not particularly expensive for what it is (with the consideration that no balancing is required, which can get pricey depending on what manufacturer components you use for your own build). I love how everyone is always an expert.....the rods are made by one of the top shelf rod manufacturers in the world. They are a far cry from a stock rod. As for cryo treating a stock rod, actually a proper race prep job on a stock rod coupled with ARP hardware would enable it to rival many of the aftermarket rods on the market.
They look like a joke? You guys seriously need to do some research before you post your opiinions on what is junk and what is good. I suspect many wouldn't know the difference, as they simply go by what they "think" they know. It is an I beam rod - do you understand what that means? It is a different type of rod design from A beam and H beam, and is designed for a specific use. Would this be the setup I use for 1000 whp? No. But i wouldn't use a beefy H beam for 450 whp either.
The HKS setup is not particularly expensive for what it is (with the consideration that no balancing is required, which can get pricey depending on what manufacturer components you use for your own build). I love how everyone is always an expert.....the rods are made by one of the top shelf rod manufacturers in the world. They are a far cry from a stock rod. As for cryo treating a stock rod, actually a proper race prep job on a stock rod coupled with ARP hardware would enable it to rival many of the aftermarket rods on the market.
They look like a joke? You guys seriously need to do some research before you post your opiinions on what is junk and what is good. I suspect many wouldn't know the difference, as they simply go by what they "think" they know. It is an I beam rod - do you understand what that means? It is a different type of rod design from A beam and H beam, and is designed for a specific use. Would this be the setup I use for 1000 whp? No. But i wouldn't use a beefy H beam for 450 whp either.
Sure, they may have their place, but no one here wants to spend $3000 for a set of "non-tapered" I beam rods that look almost exactly the size of a stock rod, when you can buy a set of some of the strongest rods/pistons available for at least $1000 less. Sure, these might be good for someone that wanted 450whp but didn't want to bother balancing, but why spend more and at the same time limit yourself. It's better to have a larger and stronger foundation to work with rather than spending money on a set of internals that you may again be skirting the limits with.
So yeah, I guess they are a "joke" unless you like spending more money on something that is less capable. At least you could tell everyone you had HKS rods/pistons (maybe that alone is worth $1000 to you).