APS Gurus NEED HELP!!!
I had my Single Turbo kit installed over the last few weeks. My car is running ok, but far from what it is supposed to be doing. Currenty I am making 312whp and 338tq.
My problem is I am not holding boost. At first I was making about 6 to 7 peak psi then at about 4500 rps it would taper down to 2 or 3psi. We installed a Forged Motorsport Actuator and a Blitz boost controller and now I making 5 to 6 peak psi up to 5500 rpms then nothing or worst than nothing I am going down to 0 or -1.5 psi.
when dyno tuning my car they took off the actuator and boost controller and found that no matter what, at 6.5 psi the wastegate would open.
what could be causing this?
could it be a turbo problem?
could it be that I have to much back pressure? keep in mind I have an APS exhaust.
or does god just not like me?
PLEASE HELP!!!
thanks guys
My problem is I am not holding boost. At first I was making about 6 to 7 peak psi then at about 4500 rps it would taper down to 2 or 3psi. We installed a Forged Motorsport Actuator and a Blitz boost controller and now I making 5 to 6 peak psi up to 5500 rpms then nothing or worst than nothing I am going down to 0 or -1.5 psi.
when dyno tuning my car they took off the actuator and boost controller and found that no matter what, at 6.5 psi the wastegate would open.
what could be causing this?
could it be a turbo problem?
could it be that I have to much back pressure? keep in mind I have an APS exhaust.
or does god just not like me?
PLEASE HELP!!!
thanks guys
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have they checked all the connections for leaks?
which spring do they have in the forge actuator? and how far down is it turned. im not sure forge got the actuator set right? my springs dont really match the boost i make, possibly due to this whole phenomenon.
have they dropped the exhaust to see what happens? even tho you have the APS exhaust, i dropped mine after the downpipe and it was much better. im having an open dump installed this week.
have they doublechecked all the charge pipe (exhaust) locations where they bolt up for leaks, i had a few.
check your flex pipe over the tranny, mine was cracked with huge chunks missing.
what are all the settings on the blitz? and do they have it hooked up right?
just trying to go thru everything i found issues with.
which spring do they have in the forge actuator? and how far down is it turned. im not sure forge got the actuator set right? my springs dont really match the boost i make, possibly due to this whole phenomenon.
have they dropped the exhaust to see what happens? even tho you have the APS exhaust, i dropped mine after the downpipe and it was much better. im having an open dump installed this week.
have they doublechecked all the charge pipe (exhaust) locations where they bolt up for leaks, i had a few.
check your flex pipe over the tranny, mine was cracked with huge chunks missing.
what are all the settings on the blitz? and do they have it hooked up right?
just trying to go thru everything i found issues with.
Originally Posted by booger
The second ST add on
ive taken the extra turbo to a friend who builds custom turbos and hes looking at changing the compressor wheel out to something with more bite. hes pretty good, hes got the max hp record worldwide for FDs using stock turbos (rebuilt of course
).
Originally Posted by tig488
have they checked all the connections for leaks?
which spring do they have in the forge actuator? and how far down is it turned. im not sure forge got the actuator set right? my springs dont really match the boost i make, possibly due to this whole phenomenon.
have they dropped the exhaust to see what happens? even tho you have the APS exhaust, i dropped mine after the downpipe and it was much better. im having an open dump installed this week.
have they doublechecked all the charge pipe (exhaust) locations where they bolt up for leaks, i had a few.
check your flex pipe over the tranny, mine was cracked with huge chunks missing.
what are all the settings on the blitz? and do they have it hooked up right?
just trying to go thru everything i found issues with.
which spring do they have in the forge actuator? and how far down is it turned. im not sure forge got the actuator set right? my springs dont really match the boost i make, possibly due to this whole phenomenon.
have they dropped the exhaust to see what happens? even tho you have the APS exhaust, i dropped mine after the downpipe and it was much better. im having an open dump installed this week.
have they doublechecked all the charge pipe (exhaust) locations where they bolt up for leaks, i had a few.
check your flex pipe over the tranny, mine was cracked with huge chunks missing.
what are all the settings on the blitz? and do they have it hooked up right?
just trying to go thru everything i found issues with.
have double and tripple checked for exhaust leaks. there are none
i have no idea what the setting on the blitz is.
go to your car and get the settings, hit the top of the 2 identical buttons, then when boost is highlighted, hit the ****, it will display the setting and the gain. tell me those numbers.
Originally Posted by tig488
go to your car and get the settings, hit the top of the 2 identical buttons, then when boost is highlighted, hit the ****, it will display the setting and the gain. tell me those numbers.
Make sure you set the aduster on the actuator rod all the way at it shortest. Hell, we even modified the forge rod and made it shorter. I can't rember by how much we shortened it, it's a tight fit now. We can make anywhere between anywhere between 8 to 12 psi that tapers down about 1 psi by redline. We're using UTEC and the TXS BCS. By kicking up the BCS duty at about 5500-6000 rpm, we maintain boost.
The problem with stand alone boost controllers, you cant adjust duty or gain at certain RPM points like UNICHIP or UTEC can.
Also, I'm pretty sure you want to use the biggest exhaust possible. On another APS ST car, we tuned it with UNICHIP and couldn't make LESS than 9 psi. It was a 06 G35 with the APS dual 3" and a custom 3.5" to dual 3" reverse y-pipe. That car made about 407 wheel. I blame part on the revup motor.
Good luck!
BTW, who's doing your tuning/trouble shooting?
The problem with stand alone boost controllers, you cant adjust duty or gain at certain RPM points like UNICHIP or UTEC can.
Also, I'm pretty sure you want to use the biggest exhaust possible. On another APS ST car, we tuned it with UNICHIP and couldn't make LESS than 9 psi. It was a 06 G35 with the APS dual 3" and a custom 3.5" to dual 3" reverse y-pipe. That car made about 407 wheel. I blame part on the revup motor.
Good luck!
BTW, who's doing your tuning/trouble shooting?
Last edited by USED; Sep 10, 2006 at 07:16 PM.
Originally Posted by USED
Make sure you set the aduster on the actuator rod all the way at it shortest. Hell, we even modified the forge rod and made it shorter. I can't rember by how much we shortened it, it's a tight fit now. We can make anywhere between anywhere between 8 to 12 psi that tapers down about 1 psi by redline. We're using UTEC and the TXS BCS. By kicking up the BCS duty at about 5500-6000 rpm, we maintain boost.
The problem with stand alone boost controllers, you cant adjust duty or gain at certain RPM points like UNICHIP or UTEC can.
Also, I'm pretty sure you want to use the biggest exhaust possible. On another APS ST car, we tuned it with UNICHIP and couldn't make LESS than 9 psi. It was a 06 G35 with the APS dual 3" and a custom 3.5" to dual 3" reverse y-pipe. That car made about 407 wheel. I blame part on the revup motor.
Good luck!
BTW, who's doing your tuning/trouble shooting?
The problem with stand alone boost controllers, you cant adjust duty or gain at certain RPM points like UNICHIP or UTEC can.
Also, I'm pretty sure you want to use the biggest exhaust possible. On another APS ST car, we tuned it with UNICHIP and couldn't make LESS than 9 psi. It was a 06 G35 with the APS dual 3" and a custom 3.5" to dual 3" reverse y-pipe. That car made about 407 wheel. I blame part on the revup motor.
Good luck!
BTW, who's doing your tuning/trouble shooting?
Originally Posted by tig488
USED, so you actually cut the rod to make it shorter, i did notice that it doesnt go down too far. which spring are you guys using, the 5-9 or 9-15?


