I have a question for the 500hp+ members here...Who's still using stock axles? Who's broken stock axles and at what power?

Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Seen stock axles handle 500+ and seen them go with 400ish. Really depends on both driving habits and tire. A street tire will allow more slip thus decreasing the chance of shearing a stock axle. A slick will put much more force on both inner and outer CV's at that level. Dumping the clutch at high rpms also increases the risk of axle failure. We have used upgraded axles with tremendous success and recommend the same just to be safe.

 

I respectfully disagree. A bias ply slick is way easier on the drivetrain, and especially axles, the sidewalls take the initial traction bite, where as a drag radial/street tire will fight on/off for traction and will likely get you wheelhop and broken axles. With the sizes most 400+whp guys run, the smallish sidewalls are axle killers. I dont have 500whp (not yet ) but with less than 400whp and many times NA Ive launched as high as 6000rpm's on stock axles and never had a failure. As you know Noah, at our MIR track day we had a 490whp Z snap a Stage 5 axle (rated for 800hp) and a street tire'd G snap a stock axle. On the flipside I was launching on slicks (10+runs) and had no issues. More importantly than tires, is how you launch, always pre-load the drivetrain guys, if not you'll be catching a ride home with the tow truck. I'm gonna be running the stock axles as long as they hold up, so we'll see what happens....

 

Bert is 100% correct. It's in how you drive, Cannot disagree with you there. Must have been smoking something . But one thing, based soley on our experiences, many drivers will snap axles with slicks due to the increased grip. Even with the sidewall taking most of the shock, the weak outer CV's from the factory cannot fend well levels over 500 rwhp. We experienced this problem when making our street tire car. Actually street tires did cause drivetrain shock but their ability to break loose on the pavement allowed enough "slip" to save them. Bottom line, as bert said, learn how to launch.

 

Problem is-most guys think having slicks (traction) means that they can just go ***** out off the line in their street cars....i.e. clutch drop. I don't think I've ever launched my car IMO past 80-85% of its potential. I launch just hard enough to reach my personal goals (which was 11's on the TN kit), and no harder. If I bust a CV Joint or snap an axle, that's on me. Even slipping it slightly off the line I manage 1.7 60ft's and I'm happy with that. Obviously with a more agressive burn out, and a harder launch 1.6 even 1.5 60ft's now are attainable with my new found power levels, but I'll have a buddy and a trailer ready for me the day I go for something like that.

 

you know we rent vinny as crew cheif by the hour

 

Does he visit Los Angeles? I wouldn't mind some pointers with my new power levels

I changed to Stage II Axles before I went F1 and have not had any problems since (I had gone up to 475whp).
We'll see how the new setup will hold up, but it's definetely how you launch

 

yeah...hell he'll goto japan if the price is right!!!

 

Lol!

 

with a full pro long block a free day of track instruction is included

 

10K+ miles on drag radials with lots of hard launches on my stock axles. I actually broke one PRIOR to going FI when I was at the track on my ET streets.

I have a set of DSS2 axles in the garage, I'm just too lazy to put them in.

 

too bad you guys didn't respond to pm's or emails you were the first shop I contacted when I wanted to get my long block a few months back because I' am so impressed with your cars.
Now I got my block from GTM which worked out great.

 

At 500whp+, I would recommend at least a Level 2 axle. I am still running the Level2's on mine at 600whp. Drivetrain shock is what will snaps axles. Sometimes, the shock can be avoided, and sometimes....****e just happens and you cant avoid it.

Better safe then sorry. Getting stuck out in the middle of nowwhere is always unpleasant.

 

What is the gearing in the stock rear diff?

 

For the 6-speed it's 3.56:1

For the auto is 3.3x:1 (don't remember exact)

 

I thought it was the reverse of that?

 

Nope...that's the rear end ratios..I'm actually trading an auto guy next month because I want to be able to run my gears out a little longer so I don't have to shift so much.