Jet-Hot Ceramic Coating
#1
Jet-Hot Ceramic Coating
From what Sharif is telling me..... don't use it. I had all my exhaust piping from my TN kit coated in the 2000 coating. Sharif said they didn't block off any threaded areas and the 02 sensors wouldn't thread back in. He also said the coating made it difficult for the clamps to seal the pipes at connections. He didn't like it.
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#6
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Originally Posted by thawk408
This is not good. I am suppose to get my greddy manifolds back tomm from being treated with jethot2000. I hope its not a nightmare.
As long as you have a tap you should be fine the threads. The major concern I would have is the coating flaking off and going through the turbos. Despite what jet hot states, that coating is prone to flaking. I have seen it on numerous N/A applications that don't get near the temps of turbo's applications
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Originally Posted by Zivman
As long as you have a tap you should be fine the threads. The major concern I would have is the coating flaking off and going through the turbos. Despite what jet hot states, that coating is prone to flaking. I have seen it on numerous N/A applications that don't get near the temps of turbo's applications
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#12
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Originally Posted by EM-EFER
No the finish on the Jet hot bonds like welding steel.
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Ziv, I wish the only issue was the 02 sensor bung holes...those are just one small problem. The bigger issues are the fact that there are drippy run marks on the mating surfaces, which makes it impossible to get a good seal. We had to sand off the coating from the mating surfaces. And now the band clamps dont like to seal as well. It's already a really tight fit in there.
Oh, and becuase the flex joint was also coatied...that thing doesnt flex much at all...making it even more challenging to get everything lined up properly.
I dont recommend this stuff at all on the TN kit. on the other kits, there isnt as much piping to coat..just the manifolds, exhuast housing, and downpipe....no issues with this.
Oh, and becuase the flex joint was also coatied...that thing doesnt flex much at all...making it even more challenging to get everything lined up properly.
I dont recommend this stuff at all on the TN kit. on the other kits, there isnt as much piping to coat..just the manifolds, exhuast housing, and downpipe....no issues with this.
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Originally Posted by drifter23
Wow, thanks for the heads up. As I was going to ship my Crawford headers to them.
I think coatings on manifolds, exhaust housings, and the typical downpipe arrangement on a turbo setup is a fairly good idea.
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I had my APS TT manifolds, turbo exhaust housings and downpipes coated without any problems. The LHS exhaust manifold was tapped before coating and the threading was fine afterwards. Don't let a few horror stories scare you off.
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Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
I had my APS TT manifolds, turbo exhaust housings and downpipes coated without any problems. The LHS exhaust manifold was tapped before coating and the threading was fine afterwards. Don't let a few horror stories scare you off.
Larry and my point is simple : coating the TURBONETICS SINGLE turbo kit causes issues.
I have no issues with TT's, exhuast manfolds..etc. It just the unique nature of the TN piping that makes it challenging to re-install.
That's it...I LOVE COATINGS on everything else.
#19
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I agree with Sharif. Read carefully what he says, and do not jump to conclusions on things he does not say. (we all are prone to do it, so no critique here, but as someone that has to carefully watch the lingo of what I do and do not write, I share the pain on this).
Thermal barrier coatings, and thermal dispersant coatings, are proven and effective treatments for managing heat. However, where one uses them, and how, can present collateral issues that need to be considered. Coating the outside of the turbo manifolds is a good idea. Keeping the heat increases the flow, and that is good for power and responsiveness. As long as the turbine wheel and blades can take it. It also reduces expression of heat to other surrounding areas and thus heat fatigue upon them. But the flaking or spalling of coating inside the turbo is a reality. I rather doubt it causes material damage at all because it is so microscopic, but why take any chances? If you do have flex joints, you may want to wrap those instead as an alternative. Remember, wrap traps moisture and promotes deterioration of the metal, so it is not free of its own issues. Lots of proof of headers almost dissolving in your hands when the wrap is removed.
Dispersants on parts like the return to the intercooler, or the lower oil pan, can also be good treatments to help with thermal management. there you want to shed the heat. Intakes want to be barrier coatings to insulate the cooler air from the ambient heat under the hood and radiating off the block. Venting of the hood helps to draw away that hot air as well. Typically on any surface that is to be mated you will have to grind it off if the part was dipped or sprayed without masking the joint surface. Application should be such as to avoid those drips and runs, especially on the inside of pipes and tubes, so it does not create an interruption or diversion of the air flow which is inefficient (and tumbling of the flow creates additional heat through increased molecular collisions and friction).
A good coating company understands these issues very well and should have techs that not only understand it, but care about it too, care enough to not coat a part sloppily. Check the parts carefully when you get them back, and if they are not done well, insist they do it over. For the best protection on this, make sure you talk with them BEFORE they do the application, so they know that YOU KNOW how it is supposed to be done.....and they will pay attention to doing it right the first time, since they know that if they do not they will be doing it a second time on their nickel.
Get the right coatings for the right applications. Intake pipes do not get the same stuff as the manifolds.....or more precisely, the heat specs of the coating you need on the pipes is way less, and a cermakrome will be fine....but not on the manifolds that will need a turbox or other comparable spec coating.
good luck. Run cool as well as fast.
Thermal barrier coatings, and thermal dispersant coatings, are proven and effective treatments for managing heat. However, where one uses them, and how, can present collateral issues that need to be considered. Coating the outside of the turbo manifolds is a good idea. Keeping the heat increases the flow, and that is good for power and responsiveness. As long as the turbine wheel and blades can take it. It also reduces expression of heat to other surrounding areas and thus heat fatigue upon them. But the flaking or spalling of coating inside the turbo is a reality. I rather doubt it causes material damage at all because it is so microscopic, but why take any chances? If you do have flex joints, you may want to wrap those instead as an alternative. Remember, wrap traps moisture and promotes deterioration of the metal, so it is not free of its own issues. Lots of proof of headers almost dissolving in your hands when the wrap is removed.
Dispersants on parts like the return to the intercooler, or the lower oil pan, can also be good treatments to help with thermal management. there you want to shed the heat. Intakes want to be barrier coatings to insulate the cooler air from the ambient heat under the hood and radiating off the block. Venting of the hood helps to draw away that hot air as well. Typically on any surface that is to be mated you will have to grind it off if the part was dipped or sprayed without masking the joint surface. Application should be such as to avoid those drips and runs, especially on the inside of pipes and tubes, so it does not create an interruption or diversion of the air flow which is inefficient (and tumbling of the flow creates additional heat through increased molecular collisions and friction).
A good coating company understands these issues very well and should have techs that not only understand it, but care about it too, care enough to not coat a part sloppily. Check the parts carefully when you get them back, and if they are not done well, insist they do it over. For the best protection on this, make sure you talk with them BEFORE they do the application, so they know that YOU KNOW how it is supposed to be done.....and they will pay attention to doing it right the first time, since they know that if they do not they will be doing it a second time on their nickel.
Get the right coatings for the right applications. Intake pipes do not get the same stuff as the manifolds.....or more precisely, the heat specs of the coating you need on the pipes is way less, and a cermakrome will be fine....but not on the manifolds that will need a turbox or other comparable spec coating.
good luck. Run cool as well as fast.
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LOL. I wasn't challenging what you said Sharif. That'd be about as smart as me challenging Tito Ortiz in a UFC match. I was just giving a positive experience so he wouldn't be dissuaded.