Is there any reason you have to pull the wiring harness out? The thread in the "do it yourself" section referenced pulling the entire harness out and I was wondering if that was necessary or required. I'm getting ready to pull the motor out in a week or two and was just looking for all the tips to make this smoother.

Thank you Much

 

You leave the harness in. Well its still in my car from the dealer pulling my engine. Basically unclip everthing and lable it so you remember where it goes and get a copy of the service manual incase you forget. They droped mine out the bottom though wich i have been told is a pain.

 

From what I've seen and on previous cars....as long as you dont' have wires spliced into the factory harness that you would need to cut...pulling the whole harness out is the best move. It is alot easy to reconnect everything onto the motor that way. You should just be able to unplug the ecu then pull the whole thing out through the firewall behind the battery.

It works both ways and is personal preference. I would probably unclip everything cause I have a ton of modifications to my factory harness, but if I didn't I would pull it all out.

 

I second 002 MP..I have pulled several motors, installed several motors...puling the harness through the firewall takes an extra 5 minutes and saves a huge hassle...the harness then rests on the motor, get the motor out of the car with the tranny..and then swap over parts to the built motor...

call me when you get close, and we'll have a little stragedy talk, you can take notes and I'll try to give you the best tips for a do-it-yourself engine pull- without a lift, on jackstands!

-TODD

 

Rock on..hehe I am waiting for my check to arrive in the mail hopefully Monday then I'll give it too you..lol

I've installed My Turbonetics and drop'd the tranny 3 times in my search for the perfect clutch (ATS Twin's) so this is the next step in my quest to master the Z.

 

+100

 

Hrm i didnt know it was that easy pulling it through the firewall, guess im to used to working on old cars where its a giant rats nest of wires. Hopefully i can watch when you put my motor in Todd. That way ill know how everything goes when i need to work on it.

 

as soon as we get your cams (mon or tues), we'll have yer longblock done two days later, then you can trailer your car up for the install!

 

sounds good, like I said, I'll be happy to lend as much over the phone/internet help as possible for your motor project

 

Nice i cant wait to drive it again. I think its been 2.5 months since i have drove the car, makes me sad looking at it sitting on the trailer haha. The last time i pulled a wiring harness was out of a 88 tbird to get connectors off of it to rewire the computer into a merkur. That damn thing was like 500 wires or something.

 

Great thread, subscribed in case I ever need this info

 

Are there any upgraded motor mounts? I've heard of full race versions but how about something like Polyurethane?

See I'm almost tempted to wait on this until Turbonetics stage 2 comes out and I don't know what the upgraded pipes will require me to do. Also a header upgrade at the same time sounds nice but meh who knows if they will even fit with the kit.

Will a Turbonetics reflash get the car started so I can check for leaks or will the the lower compression and cams screw with it to much...lol so many questions.

 

I have the SVRT solid mounts, and they are really is no increase in vibration from what I could tell. They are about $100.

JET

 

We make our own upgraded mounts...very nice too. http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=264&page=1

Unless you have a ton of stuff hardwired to your ECU harness, its easier to simply push the harness through the firewall, as everyone else suggested.

 

Motor mounts check, Pull harness check.

 

I disconnected the wiring harness from my engine before removal with no problems. It looked quite hard to pull the harness out of the firewall and finding where the plugs go during installation is quite simple to be honest.

It starts at the passenger side and wraps itself around the front of the engine to the driver side. I did it myself with no prior experience installing or removing an engine with no issues. It is actually quite straight forward. especially if you take the front bumper off and front support and can stand right over the engine. However, I do not have an A/C so this could have been the reason that everything went so easily on my car.

 

No its just EASY to pull this motor. You wont have any problems if you've done a trans install. This is cake!

 

Any particular motor stand I should get?

 

I just got one from Fleetfarm. Just your basic $49 stand should do as long as it has four individual bolt plates you should have no problem mounting it to the motor.

 

How long can u support a motor on a stand like that? May seem like a dumb question but the stress on those areas wont mess anything up right? I would figure a nice way way would be to incorporate something that also supports the bottom of the motor.