"I like to do it myself" Motor pull question.
Hey man I having the SVR Tech Solid Motormounts put in when they are putting the engine back in. I'll let you know how it feals when I get every thing where it needs to be.
Cross your fingers it should be out of the shop this week so you can take my spot
.
Only a loaner thought because its gonna go back in for a tune, ASAP!
Cross your fingers it should be out of the shop this week so you can take my spot
. Only a loaner thought because its gonna go back in for a tune, ASAP!
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From: Port Orchard, WA
I may do mine at home and have Sonic tune me. I been reading this up and it doesn't seem hard at all. After dropping the tranny and install of the turbo kit with removing the manifolds and all to heat wrap them, this seems pretty straight forward. I have a garage might as well use it
So when is your motor comming in and who did you go through for the shipping? Todd was gonna arrage the return for me if I was gonna send the core first. But yeah didnt do that so no clue who seth went through.
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I'm still waiting for him to get back to me. That is the hardest part right now figuring how the hell to get my core to him. I have no crate, straps or a clue, lol. I got money for a motor tho if that matters. With the holidays coming up if I dont get a handle on this soon I may have to wait till after
I bet if you ask Seth real nicely you can buy/ rent the crating my engine came in.... oh wait. I think I paid for the materials and labor. Doesnt that mean it's mine? I'll drop Seth a line to see what what on that. If so man you can use/buy/rent it what ever.
All else fails you can get a pallet from Lowes, they always have them just lying arround. You'll need an roll of plastic wrap, some 2X4's, plywood, fore mentioned pallets, nails/ screws, and motorcycle straps from autozone.
All else fails you can get a pallet from Lowes, they always have them just lying arround. You'll need an roll of plastic wrap, some 2X4's, plywood, fore mentioned pallets, nails/ screws, and motorcycle straps from autozone.
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
I'll try to give you the best tips for a do-it-yourself engine pull- without a lift, on jackstands!
-TODD
-TODD
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Originally Posted by g356gear
How do you do it without a lift?? You must be good at bench pressing.
I plan to remove the tranny just enough to push it back a few inches so I can leave the radiator condenser in place. besides that its just a few harnesses and vacume lines. It seems so odd that only 2 motor mounts keep the engine in place when the tranny ain't hooked up but thats how it works. Oh yea and when the plenum is removed its super easy to get the top tranny bolts out.
Originally Posted by redline350ZZ
Oh yea and when the plenum is removed its super easy to get the top tranny bolts out.
I thought they were super easy to get out from under the car reaching over the trans...sure you have to feel for them because you can't see them, but there's TONS of room up there to move the wrench around.
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I thought they were super easy to get out from under the car reaching over the trans...sure you have to feel for them because you can't see them, but there's TONS of room up there to move the wrench around.
Well for me I'm weak so it was harder to crack the top bolts from under the car. With the Plenum off I can locate the top bolts with ease and use a 1/2 Ratchet to power away.
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Originally Posted by G352NV
I just pulled my trans about four time(long story) I did the top bolts without removing the intake or plenum. You can reach the top two from the pass side.
Really it has been said that the tranny doesn't even need to be removed to swap. I would rather leave the condenser in place and slide the tranny back a little, so the motor can be raised up without having to go forward as much cause the input shaft wont be in the way.
Originally Posted by redline350ZZ
I would never recommend removing the plenum for just tranny work (clutch/ flywheel), just saying that since my motor is being pulled anyway it will make getting to the top bolts that much easier. Sorry for the confusion if there was any.
Really it has been said that the tranny doesn't even need to be removed to swap. I would rather leave the condenser in place and slide the tranny back a little, so the motor can be raised up without having to go forward as much cause the input shaft wont be in the way.
Really it has been said that the tranny doesn't even need to be removed to swap. I would rather leave the condenser in place and slide the tranny back a little, so the motor can be raised up without having to go forward as much cause the input shaft wont be in the way.
My preferred method to pull the motor is through the front, with contorting the ac condensor out of the way...... this gives the straightest shot when pulling it out and putting everything back together..
i tried it through the bottom, it worked, but having to wrestle with the AC compressor while dropping the car down on the motor..that was a challenge!
Re Tranny: the few top bolts come right off from the bottom, a swivel socket will do the job..there is room there, but not being able to see yp there makes it more challenging, and you don't have a straight shot to the bolts, so a swivel makes the task much more doable
-TODD
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
Re Tranny: the few top bolts come right off from the bottom, a swivel socket will do the job..there is room there, but not being able to see yp there makes it more challenging, and you don't have a straight shot to the bolts, so a swivel makes the task much more doable
-TODD
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