I did the drill out. When I first start the car its great! Im at 900 rpm. But when I drive it and come to a stop it bounces all over the place. Jumps up and down from 900 to 2000. After a few seconds it will settle at 900 again. Im going to put it back to the way it was and have the idle bumped.

 

So I guess I was a little right about it pushing the RPM's up but the ECU kept trying to correct it. Also when you have the idel bump, they can adjust the fuel curve throughout the entire range.

But you said you have a stand alone, would a reflash work. Sorry Im kinda retarded on the FCON. If you have a bump and it works then the FCON is realy not a true stand alone it would be getting a signal from the ECU And changing it. Thats piggy backing. Not like the standalone that AEM does thats a full ECU replacement. Is my logic flawed or am I just missing the obvious because Im retarded?

 

Thanx man i appre.

 

The Fcon is a stand alon exactly like the AEM. I read the thread that was posted a while ago about drilling a hole again but this time all of the posts of each and every 1 and apperantly every 1 is happy appart from the guy who started the post lol so i'm doing that and start getting happy

 

So how will a reflash do you good if the FCON is not taking info from the ECU.

So you still got the creatures right, AC Power doors etc?

 

ya every thing is working in the car windows doors every thing

 

hhmm I may have to look into the Fcon more, what did you pay for it if you dont mind me asking? and what did you do with the stock ECU.

 

The stock ECU stays so if u inspect the car on the dealer computer he will be able to see what he normaly see even with the fcon on the car, i have the fcon-v pro thats http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=256&page=1

 

the motor stalls because of a drop in the air intake. the throttle motor does not react fast enough to the conditions to compensate for air readings it was not deigned, or calibrated for it to read. the throttle mottor has the adjustment in it to compensate, but, it will not react fast enough to keep the motor from stalling when larger cams and turbo's can block or reinteperate the intake flow.
having your idle raised on the comp, just means that the comp is looking for a different target to hit for the idle. so if it drops to 650, it will open the throttle blade sooner to bring it back to 1000.
drilling a hole in the throttle blade makes it so the throttle blade does not have to try and react against the drops in vacuum. no need to worry, the maf meter has already calibrated the airflow, so your a/f should be right on target.
it is the same thing as the jwt fix, only simpler.

 

The HKS FCON V-Pro is a full standalone. Just like every other standalone for the 350Z, the stock ECU remains to control safety features and creature comforts. The stock ECU still physically controls the drive by wire throttle mechanism, so unfortunately, we dont have full idle control. Hope that helps explain it.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

No one can tune this in Hawaii you need to be authorized, I bought a UTEC from Sharif and will be the Oahu Z test subject I guess. I don't know of any Z/G's in Hawaii using this system. Then again no one is making big power yet so it hasn't been required. All our boosters are running on what E-manage?

 

EU me, EU seth, EU mike I think, others ???


So on subject: you are going for a reflash then? Let us know how that works out for you man.

 

No I'm using a Turbo XS UTEC

http://www.turboxs.com/more_info.php?ID=217

You should seriously check it out, way better then EU IMO. I should get it next week.

 

Thanx for the Tech suport i was trying to explain it in my words but i guess u saying the right terms and words always make sence.